View Full Version : Tula .223 Ammo
Can anyone recommend this ammo? Tula .223 ammo. good, bad, so so? Cabela's has it for $4.49 per 20
02-22-2010, 11:26 PM
It is Wolf or should I say Wolf is Tula, all comes from the same plant. I sorley despise this ammunition entirely. As if the steel cased isn't bad enough, check a powder load on this ammo, good luck shooting wolf past 200 yards, or relliably feeding and cycling your action, I almost forgot! You always have the expanded case jam to look forward to as well, the one that happens after all that crap coating (painted casings yeaaaah) builds up in your chamber and feed ramp. Match the quality of your ammunition to the quality of your gun! Wolf in an AK is great, a match made in heaven for its intended job.
02-23-2010, 08:34 AM
It is true that most of the Eastern Bloc steel cased stuff comes from the same factories. Wolf is just one distributor of Tula manufactured ammo.
The steel cased stuff is dirty, and as a general rule it is slightly underpowered compared to 5.56 NATO loads, but there is nothing wrong with it for cheap plinking. Some firearms have no trouble with it, while others will not cycle it. ARs have more trouble than most due to the fact that they crap where they eat (direct impingement).
What you really need to understand about the steel cased stuff is that steel is not as flexible as brass. This is a problem both for shooting and for reloading.
The steel casings are coated to prevent corrosion and increase lubrication. (Brass is somewhat self lubricating. Steel is not.) The coating is either lacquer (older ammo... looks somewhat green) or polymer (newer stuff... looks silver or grey). You hear a lot of people talk about this coating "melting" and binding up chambers. This is not the case. When brass cased ammo is fired, the brass stretches to fit the chamber and makes a relatively tight seal with the barrel. Steel does not stretch the same way (or to the same extent) so more carbon gets blown back into the chamber around the casing. This wont necessarily hurt anything, but it does mean more cleaning needs to be done.
The real problem comes when a brass cased round is fired after a session of shooting steel cased ammo. The steel cased ammo has left plenty of carbon and other garbage on the walls of the chamber for the reasons stated above. Then a brass cased round is fired and stretches to fit the chamber as it should. It can become jammed in the chamber because it has less room to expand and it "sticks" to the fouling. This can cause broken extractors or the extractor can even tear through the rim of the casing.
This isn't much of a problem with rounds like 7.62x39 (AK, SKS) because they are so tapered. Straighter walled rounds (5.56) have a much greater problem with this.
It is also a bit of a testament to the somewhat "self-cleaning" properties of a brass case. I've seen brass cased ammo that was fired through an AR after a session of steel cased shooting. The first brass cases fired were covered with fouling. Each round fired pulled out less and less until the chamber wasn't much dirtier than if the shooter had only been firing brass cased (I'm not mentioning the rest of the internals though).
The other thing to know is that the bullets are not copper jacketed lead like normal ammo. They are lead with a steel jacket that has a thin copper coating. Both the steel used in the casing and the steel used in the bullet jacket are "mild steel" so they're really quite soft, but they don't behave like normal bullets do, meaning that they don't expand or fragment reliably.
Sorry to be wordy. Again, nothing wrong with it for cheap plinking ammo as long as your firearm agrees with it and you don't mind extra cleaning.
06-19-2010, 08:35 PM
Thank you, I wondered if the steel case stuff was coated with something to help with extraction. I was somewhat skeptical about shooting it in my Mini-14
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