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Harrington Richardson - 38

1K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  T.A. 
#1 ·
I have (my Father carried it during the 30's as a deputy) a HR 38 (photo attached). Question - what model is it (can't find a model or serial # anywhere on the gun)

I have never fired the gun - after pulling the trigger (dry fire) the cylinder does not advance and the hammer will not stay cocked - the 2nd photo shows a piece (from the gun) that is broken

I realize the gun has minimal value, but it does have a lot of sentimental value to me (and I would like to fire it at least one time if it can be done safely)

Thoughts??

T.A.
 

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#2 ·
It is an Automatic Ejecting, 3rd Model. However I will need a picture of the text on top of the barrel, or it typed out EXACTLY as it is stamped to determine the variation. However, all 3rd model parts should be the same(for the most part). I can tell you right now it is a 1st through 4th variation because the 5th variation used a gripframe where there isn't a stepdown for the grips. And that it is a smokeless gun. Also, those grips aren't original.

The broken part - I suspect that is part of the trigger spring, #26 at Numrich. But without seeing it in person and being able to take it apart - it is just a guess. Maybe part of the mainsping, part #33.

Numrich refers to that gun as the "New Model Large Frame Automatic".
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufac.../NewModelLargeFrameAutomatic-38130.htm?page=3

You would have to remove those aftermarket grips to find the serial number. It will also be on the underside of the topstrap(have to remove the cylinder to see it). And it should have a partial matching of the last 2-4 numbers on the face of the cylinder.
 
#3 ·
Thank you - no, the grips are not original, the originals either broke or my father didn't like them and hand carved new grips

after removing the cylinder the numbers are 200271

the text on top of the barrel is>

Harrington Richardson Arms Co. Worchester, Mass USA
Patented August 6, 1899 October 8, 1895

I look at Numrich and they are sold out of the original # 26, but they have a replacement spring

Question - if I am able to secure the replacement parts - thoughts on firing the gun at least once - the barrel has not rust and the gun seems to be (no, I am not an expert) in good condition
 
#4 · (Edited)
I suspect that "August 6, 1899" is actually "August 6, 1889". You have a 2nd variation made between 1909 and 1912.

So long as the bore and chambers are good. And the action locks together with reasonable firmness, and timing is on - it should be safe to shoot modern .38S&W ammo(the short stuff). Absolutely DO NOT shoot .38/200(British Webley) ammo in it even though it is the same cartridge. That heavy bullet will cause too much breech thrust for that weaker break-top action.

If you plan to roll your own ammo, do not use any jacketed bullets at all. Only use softer lead bullets with minimal bearing surface(no wadcutters).

I shoot Remington and Fiocchi brand .38S&W ammo in my relatively same era made H&R's without problem.
 
#5 ·
I suspect that "August 6, 1899" is actually "August 6, 1889". You have a 2nd variation made between 1909 and 1912.

So long as the bore and chambers are good. And the action locks together with reasonable firmness, and timing is on - it should be safe to shoot modern .38S&W ammo(the short stuff). Absolutely DO NOT shoot .38/200(British Webley) ammo in it even though it is the same cartridge. That heavy bullet will cause too much breech thrust for that weaker break-top action.

If you plan to roll your own ammo, do not use any jacketed bullets at all. Only use softer lead bullets with minimal bearing surface(no wadcutters).

I should Remington and Fiocchi brand .38S&W ammo in my relatively same era made H&R's without problem.
Excellent - thank you. And yes, it is 1889 (that is what happens when you are blind in 1 eye and can't see out of the other) - also thank you for the thought on the Remington and Fiocche brand - I gave up re-loading my own years ago
 
#9 ·
Where did you find the broken spring? The original trigger spring is not jsut a simple V shape. It should have a V shape, but one of the arms taking a 90 degree angle. I think somebody replaced the spring with a V shaped one, which is maybe why it broke.

If you order a spring from Numrich you need to fit the spring to the gun, it is not a drop in part. The hard part is trying to figure out how the spring fits in the frame. I will try to find a schematic to help you.
Mike
 
#10 · (Edited)
Where did you find the broken spring? The original trigger spring is not jsut a simple V shape. It should have a V shape, but one of the arms taking a 90 degree angle. I think somebody replaced the spring with a V shaped one, which is maybe why it broke.

If you order a spring from Numrich you need to fit the spring to the gun, it is not a drop in part. The hard part is trying to figure out how the spring fits in the frame. I will try to find a schematic to help you.
Mike
About a year ago, I got interested in seeing if the gun could be fixed. It was taken apart by a person who was referred to me (I had previously taken the gun to several gunsmiths who refused to work on HR's) but I was not told where the broken spring came from. A schematic would be great - thank you
 
#11 ·
I found this picture for the placement of the spring trigger spring. While it is not the same model, the set up looks similar. If you look at the trigger spring, the top side is longer than the bottom which rests on the trigger guard. You need to trim the top side (long arm) of the trigger spring so it fits snuggly against the bottom of the trigger. They make the springs with a long arms so they can be used in multiple applications. Just be sure to take your time when trimming the spring. If it is too long it will bind; however, if it is too short there will be too much play. I suppose a V spring could be used, but it may not provide the same tension that a U shaped spring does.
 

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