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Ballistol n CorrosionX

4K views 11 replies 12 participants last post by  roundball 
#1 ·
Would like to find out what some firearm finicky cleaners think of these two products.... Ballistol n Corrosion X
I'm coming to the conclusion that they make up part of the perfect 6 pack for every bench... With Hoppes #9,
Break free CLP , Rem oil n silver bullet gun oil as the other four.
 
#5 ·
I use Hoppe's and Rem oil, mainly because I always have and don't know better. But I noticed recently some unusual wear on the frame rails of my nearly new P938. They're shiny white metal at the front and rear, and that shouldn't be happening. Digging around I found a tube of stuff my Dad always used - Gunslick, I think it's called. It's a heavy grease, loaded with what appears to be graphite. I'm trying that for a while to see if this unusual wear is stopped by it.

Ballistol I've heard of, but never seen on a shelf. CorrisionX I've never ever heard of until this post. We need a test of the two, side by side. I'm looking forward to your article!:D
 
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#6 ·
Hoppe's, Rem oil, and now SBGO. I guess I'm old fashioned, Hoppe's, and Rem oil was all you needed for the last 100 years, and it still works. Are there better products out there? Maybe, but why re-invent the wheel.
 
#7 ·
The big issue in bore solvents is getting out the copper fouling from jacketed bullets in rifle barrels.

I've tried a bunch of different ones including Ballistol and only those that dissolve the copper or abrade the copper seems to work. That would be any with mild ammonia or J-B Bore Compound. The later has to be used judiciously as it is a mild abrasive. Sweets is a favorite ammonia based bore cleaner but minimize the time it spends in the barrel as it may harm the bore eventually. That warning is super important on home brewed cleaners that contain ammonia. Anything more than a few minutes of the ammonia in the bore can destroy a barrel if the ammonia concentration is too high. Home brews are a bad idea! Follow the direction on the bottle of anything you use.

I have even used the reverse plating process with a power source and a rod down the bore which is plugged and filled with a solution (different for lead or copper). As the copper in the bore is layered along with powder fouling you have to stop the process and clean the rod and the bore of powder fouling for each layer. The process must be repeated for days to get all the copper out.

Is it necessary to get all the copper out or only the worst of it??? I don't know but I tire of any long cleaning process and often let the bore be just good enough. If there is a difference between a lightly copper fouled bore and a sparkling clean one then I never see the difference.

Don't believe the hype in the advertising literature. Some claim the solvent gets under the copper and lifts it off effortlessly....I have not seen that in practice. But I can say that cleaning after every use assures the bore does not have a chance to get so bad accuracy is affected.

LDBennett
 
#9 ·
I use Barnes and Ed's Red in the barrels. I've read Corrosion-X is effective in the barrels for protection, but since I'm cleaning with Barnes and Ed's, I leave it at that. I use Corrosion-X for the exteriors and the actions. The Marlin 60 action in particular likes to be run dry - any oil gums it up. Corrosion-X keeps it slick and clean. Corrosion-X dissolved the tiny freckling on the nickel front strap of my old H&R .38. It will dissolve that first light rust that starts to appear on worn spots, then prevent it from coming back. Rust protection is what Corrosion-X was designed for, not really for cleaning. Because cleaners usually also protect the insides, Corrosion-X is kind of unneeded there. But it's great everywhere else.
 
#12 ·
I really like Ballistol for the black powder breech and muzzle loaders. It also does not degrade the wood. Also works well mixed 50/50 as a patch lube for the muzzle loaders. Have used Ballistol on bullet moulds and related equipment. No problems with rust etc. Also, add Kroil to the list of basics. Might also add RIG to shooting basics. Use Mobile synthetic motor oil for lube.
 
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