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H&R Hammerless Top Break

2K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  knight0334 
#1 ·
Hello everyone, I am brand new to this forum. I posted this same thread on gunboards forums but then noticed this forum seems to be a little more active when it comes to old top breaks, so I think some feedback from you fine people would be nice!

I have always wanted a top break, and for $150 I couldn't pass this one up. It is in 38 S&W and, in my opinion, a real beauty compared to most others encountered. The function of the revolver seems really tight and the action, as far as I can tell without having fired it yet, seems excellent. The bluing is nice and deep except for a few areas, and it has some general freckling throughout, but for a gun 100 or so years old the finish is gorgeous. Bore has some light pitting but rifling is strong and it is shiny except for those few areas. Grips are excellent and the trigger even has some charming case hardening.

If anyone has some further info (like year estimate) that would be great. I know the markings indicate it is of the smokeless powder era. S/N is 71150 and matches in all locations (even etched under the grips!). I will probably do an intimate dis-assembly and cleaning before the range. All the springs seem good for now but I am thinking of getting the Wollf "ultimate/mega" spring set for these type revolvers just in case something goes awry.

I feel like the commonly held belief that these are junkers doesn't quite hold true...it seems like a pretty good quality revolver to me and it just oozes character!

Thanks for the help/comments!







 
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#2 ·
It is a "Hammerless 2nd Model, 2nd Variation". It was made between 1906 and 1908(no way to narrow it down further). It is a smokeless model too, so modern ammo can be used so long as the gun is in working shape.

I highly recommend NOT taking it apart. ...parts on these old guns break very easily, and a number of them are not available at all. I personally would just take the grips off and use something like WD-40 to wash it out, blow out with canned/compressed air, dry it with a clean towel, then oil it properly. The old paraffin based oils from yesteryear often cake up into a wax, so the WD-40 should dissolve any buildup.

However, if you decide to take it apart - Numrich may have an assembly diagram. I know they have a parts list with an overall picture, but that picture really doesn't show how it all goes back together.

For value on yours, I'd put it around $200, then another $20 for the blued finish version(rarer than nickel plated guns).
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the info! I like taking things apart and consider myself pretty handy. I figured out a Savage 1907 bolt assembly with just pictures so I hope I can figure this out. There's a pretty good dis-assembly video of an Iver Johnson .32 cal on Youtube that I could at least use as a guideline. I feel like if a part breaks during dis-assembly it was bound to break soon anyway :p
 
#4 ·
Well I didn't do a full disassembly because the main barrel screw was being stubborn and I didn't want to push it too hard. I did take it to the range and it is a real joy to shoot...but...it shoots incredibly high, almost unbelievably high. I was shooting from about 20 feet and it was shooting about 12 inches high! I know heavy and slow bullets shoot high but damn. I was practically aiming at the dirt and just then hitting the target.

I am not an expert shooter but I find it hard to believe that this would be all from me doing something wrong. Trigger is decent...I am used to shooting my Nagant revolver so compared to that the H&R has a great trigger! I'll have to take it out again so get another impression. I was shooting Fiocchi 146 gr. FMJ rounds and Magtech 146 lead rounds. Magtech felt a little snappier than the Fiocchi. I retrieved some of the FMJ rounds and could tell they are at least engaging the rifling.
 
#5 ·
Avoid FMJ, hardcast, or any bullet design with a large bearing surface in a topbreak. They create a lot of breech thrust which can pop open the action, if not break the gun.

It is harder to stuff a FMJ down the barrel than it is a softer lead bullet. Ditto for hardcast. Large bearing surface bullets like wadcutters create a lot of drag, which can ramp up the pressure behind the bullet.
 
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