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hotsights · 08-28-2010, 11:24 PM

The lettering/Inlay is beautiful, so crisp yet, graceful. I've had some inlay problems from the cutting side and its all because I try to go too fast, this is slow art, you can't rush it unless the fire place is short of wood. Carl, I have about 20 little plastic bags of wood-dust from all the woods I've sanded. What I often find is that when the dust is mixed with epoxy, the wood-dust mix becomes much darker than I had expected, To lighten it up as a re-do, I use white maple to get the tone to match the grip.

Guess without mistakes, there is no way to really, learn something on your own, I think I'm aproaching the Wizard level, ha, ha. I'm doing a pair of grips from Bubinga and inlaying a RazorBack Hog in them, have one done, still short a hog to get the other done. As you said Carl, slow & clean cuts are a major key to clean inlay. Your lessons keep coming back to me as I learn more and try more.

Thanks

08-28-2010, 11:24 PM	#263
hotsights V.I.P. Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	Re: How to customize your 1911 grips The lettering/Inlay is beautiful, so crisp yet, graceful. I've had some inlay problems from the cutting side and its all because I try to go too fast, this is slow art, you can't rush it unless the fire place is short of wood. Carl, I have about 20 little plastic bags of wood-dust from all the woods I've sanded. What I often find is that when the dust is mixed with epoxy, the wood-dust mix becomes much darker than I had expected, To lighten it up as a re-do, I use white maple to get the tone to match the grip. Guess without mistakes, there is no way to really, learn something on your own, I think I'm aproaching the Wizard level, ha, ha. I'm doing a pair of grips from Bubinga and inlaying a RazorBack Hog in them, have one done, still short a hog to get the other done. As you said Carl, slow & clean cuts are a major key to clean inlay. Your lessons keep coming back to me as I learn more and try more. Thanks