[jack404]

I use phosphoric acid and zinc mainly , i can tint and colour the park a few ways

i can match the GI green with a 2% copper SULFIDE ultra fine grind addition

i can black park with varying amounts of maganese oxide

i have used the same batch over 3 days til on the third some parts where looking not well coated and it was all of a sudden , i triple checked the parts in the previous batch and they where all good , the ability to transfer was gone , new batch for just a few peices but thats how it is

i use Nylon tubs , actually the nylon acid drum cut in half with ice cream sticks glued in place for parts to sit on , and slight touch moves them along so you dont get a stripe effect..

your high tolerence areas coat with engineers or jewers otr other high heat tolerant wax

meaning cover the slide parts

make sure the part is not touching anything else

make sure they sit so no bubbles can form and stay

some folks wire parts , i use green leather thonging

barrels make sure they dont need smooth areas like for bushings etc

i doubt you'd ruin anything , but be happy with the job ? its not that hard to dissolve the zinc back off if your patient and thorough even if you do goof , i've not had a goof in a few years , it happens , you remove it all or in part and go from there ..

its not rocket science but does need simple thoughts as per YOUR GUN
wax what you dont want covered , dont what you do ..

park it all and enjoy its a great finish and holds oil well and thats it secret , the micro crystaline deposit you put on your metal holds oil excellently ..

prep is everything though , just like bluing , if your prep is bad , it'll show though i will say parking is way more forgiving than bluing , it'll cover small finger marks ..

i'll post you some links