Camouflaging a synthetic rifle stock...

[Zane71464]

I'm sure there is a thread on TFF somewhere that might have coverd this, but
I have a Savage (black) synthetic stock that I would like to camouflage with spray paint.
I was wondering what is the best way? I'm thinking of wipeing it totally clean with (non) acetone for cleaning and then useing several coats of flat-enamel
Rust-oleum for a "field, grass-like" look.

I was wondering what your all thoughts, ideas on this might be?
I'm looking for a finish that'll be a bit scratch resistant, the more the better, and am hopeing for a good "tuff" finish.
Any and all thoughts would be greatly apperciated.
Havent ever done this for the fact, I havent owned too many synthetic stocks worth doing this to.

[Rockyja]

I thing it would be easier to just rub it lightly with 00 steel wool and then mask off the different patterns you want and spray paint it with flat paint of your choice. after 24 hours. steel wool it lightly again and then lay a coal of polly over it.

That should work just fine.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by Rockyja

I thing it would be easier to just rub it lightly with 00 steel wool and then mask off the different patterns you want and spray paint it with flat paint of your choice. after 24 hours. steel wool it lightly again and then lay a coal of polly over it.

That should work just fine.

I thank you for the input Rockja. I'm wondering about the polyurathane on the flat paint....maybe a flat coat of it over the flat paint?

[cpttango30]

I scuffed mine with a scotchbrite pad and used the Restolum for plastic paint. You can also use the textured paint as well for a little more grip. I went to Micheal's and got some fake grass and leaves to make stencils. Or go to walmart and pick up a pair of fishnet stockings that makes a good pattern for a camo job.











Here it is on my rifle.

[Snakedriver]

Zane, after I do this with the rattle-can paint I typically put a coat of flat "clear" over my paint job to give it more durability in the field. It's worked out real good for me so far. After you're done and it's good & dry, rub it very lightly with some extra fine steel wool for a consistent flat appearance.

They sell the clear finish at the same places you get the colored camoflage paint.

[carver]

Originally Posted by cpttango30

I scuffed mine with a scotchbrite pad and used the Restolum for plastic paint. You can also use the textured paint as well for a little more grip. I went to Micheal's and got some fake grass and leaves to make stencils. Or go to walmart and pick up a pair of fishnet stockings that makes a good pattern for a camo job.

That turned out really well! I've heard of some tape that you can get that has no adhesive on it, but sticks to it's self. Easy to put on, easy to take off.

[carver]

Here it is: http://survivalcache.com/camouflage-tape-camoform-wrap/

[GunHugger]

I was just headed out the door...

If you have an interest in doing something like this I'll gladly give you the run down on how I did it. It's cheap, quick, easy and durable and only takes about an hour to complete.

Let me know.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by cpttango30

I scuffed mine with a scotchbrite pad and used the Restolum for plastic paint. You can also use the textured paint as well for a little more grip. I went to Micheal's and got some fake grass and leaves to make stencils. Or go to walmart and pick up a pair of fishnet stockings that makes a good pattern for a camo job.

That's a work of art there, nice! I really like the "textured-type" on the finish!

Originally Posted by Snakedriver

Zane, after I do this with the rattle-can paint I typically put a coat of flat "clear" over my paint job to give it more durability in the field. It's worked out real good for me so far. After you're done and it's good & dry, rub it very lightly with some extra fine steel wool for a consistent flat appearance.

They sell the clear finish at the same places you get the colored camoflage paint.

Thanks Snakedriver, with what I'm after, sounds like the 'plan".
I got to shoot my "new-to-me" Savage 11, in .204 Ruger out to 400yds yesterday and I thinking I've found a new Coyote Rifle.
It dont have to be anything to awefully fancy, but I want to make a good job of it. Mostly to just make it blend as well as possible with field hunting, even though, it has the blued barrel/finish.
I was thinking a more "grassy" type camo pattern

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by GunHugger

I was just headed out the door...

If you have an interest in doing something like this I'll gladly give you the run down on how I did it. It's cheap, quick, easy and durable and only takes about an hour to complete.

Let me know.

Yes sir!

That's a fine job!

[Snakedriver]

Zane here's my converted Mossberg 500 that I rattle-canned that has the flat clear on it. The barrel was shiny blue finished when I started. I coated it with flat black first before adding the rest of the colors. where you are the grassy camo will work great. Be sure to post a picture when you're done.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by Snakedriver

Zane here's my converted Mossberg 500 that I rattle-canned that has the flat clear on it. The barrel was shiny blue finished when I started. I coated it with flat black first before adding the rest of the colors. where you are the grassy camo will work great. Be sure to post a picture when you're done.

Looks really good, Sankedriver!

(good or bad) , I'll post a pic when I get my Savage stock done.
Hope to get what I need today and if the humidity permits, might get'er done within the next day or so.

[GunHugger]

Zane,

I used Krylon Fusion Ulta-Flat Camo paint. Clean the stock well with mineral spirits to remove oils, no sanding is needed for the Fusion paint to stick well but I did sand the mold flash here and there.

Pick whatever colors you like and lay out the pattern that you like in your mind, the method is easy and quick. You just add tape and paint colors until finished, then remove all the tape.

I sprayed the whole stock tan, if you aren't using tan spray it the lightest color first.

I used a wide roll of blue painters masking tape. I tore it in varied shapes and made up each part of the pattern with how ever many pieces of tape was needed, getting each shape out of one piece of tape is difficult.

Tape over everything you want to stay tan or whatever color you sprayed the whole stock with.

Leave the tape on and spray the stock green ( or your next color ). Tape over everything you want to be green. Leave all tape on and spray it black. Remove tape, you are done.

I'm sorry that I just don't have the time today. I was hoping to take some pictures to show how easy this method is. This paint dries fast so you only need to wait about 15 minutes between adding more tape and paint. I did mine in less than an hour.

I didn't use poly on top, don't think it's needed at all. The Krylon Fusion paint is durable after it dries for a few days. Just be careful the first few days with it until it is completely dry and hard. I did lightly mist each color on the stock from a distance to soften the pattern up some too.

I just read what I just said...I seem to have made it more complicated than it really is.

[Rockyja]

Great job guys!! All of them look fantastic.

Zane, the poly on flat paint works good. I do a lot of woodwood in my garage and use poly on almost everfything. They come out nice.

[Gabob]

I taped leaves and ferns to the black stock and sprayed with OD spray paint

[Zane71464]

Thanks guys for all the great info, and they all look great! Got me some paint today and hope to get a "patteren" laid out in my mind and do some painting, right real soon.
Might toss in some white-pine needle pattern and some, (what I've always heard it called) is "fire-grass" weed pattern.

[Zane71464]

ALL you guys done an excellent job on your rifles, so much, 'bout ashamed to post pics of my "job"! lol
I did get it finished and plan to take a few pics today as I've been letting the paint throughly dry inside in the AC.

[Snakedriver]

Zane, the good news is that if it doesn't turn out right the first time, you can sand it down and re-paint it again. I think the process works best if you start with the light colors first and work to the darks last. The hard part to remember is the "less is more". If the colors are too crisp, you can give it a light misting from a distance with say an olive green or dark brown.

Looking forward to the pictures.

[todd51]

If his paint work is any thing like his carpentry we won't be disappointed. Dale did you ever share your gun cabinet with the forum?

IT'S RAINING ! ! !

[JLA]

I like your work Gunhugger. It is very reminiscent of WW2 era German Tiger Stripe camo. Very cool.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by Snakedriver

Zane, the good news is that if it doesn't turn out right the first time, you can sand it down and re-paint it again. I think the process works best if you start with the light colors first and work to the darks last. The hard part to remember is the "less is more". If the colors are too crisp, you can give it a light misting from a distance with say an olive green or dark brown.

Looking forward to the pictures.

Thats good to hear Snakedriver....not sure my painting abilities are up to par!

Originally Posted by todd51

If his paint work is any thing like his carpentry we won't be disappointed. Dale did you ever share your gun cabinet with the forum?

IT'S RAINING ! ! !

Thanks for the comment Todd, and yep, supposed to get a shower or two here today!??!?! I dont think I've posted any pics of the Gun Cabinet on yet. I've taken so many through the step-by-step process for my own "remembering" that I'll have to sort out the final cabinet pics.

[skullfr]

great job guys.They all look nice

[GunHugger]

Originally Posted by JLA

I like your work Gunhugger. It is very reminiscent of WW2 era German Tiger Stripe camo. Very cool.

Thank you. And thanks to everyone.

It's always good to get a compliment, much appreciated.

That was my second attempt at camo. I did a 1022 stock and hated how it looked, was going to try again. A customer stopped by to drop off a clock for some work and noticed it...and loved it. I gave it to him.

I'm not much of a fan of painted guns, just not for me. I like blued steel and nice wood ( or all black ) but with the Savage Tupperware stock painting it was an improvement. I also added a pound of "duct seal" to the butt stock to balance the heavy barrel and a riser for a better cheek weld with a scope. Now that Savage 17Mach2 is my "go to" rimfire when little vermin needs shot.



Zane,
Don't sweat it...post up some pics. It only matters that you like it, or dislike it. If you don't like it don't wait too long, the paint will come off (or most of it anyway) easy with some lacquer thinner before it hardens in a day or two.

[cpttango30]

I have also taken a black and orange base coat and just randomly spray bars on the stock. Then I take a squirt bottle that you get at home depot walmart target or a beauty supply store and spray water on the stock then spray a lighter top coat I used white it the paint set for a little bit then blow it off with an air compressor. Gives you a very need wet look if you want to get crazy.

While I am not a huge skull fan here is a good video laying it all out and showing the fishnet method.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRYxD77fdQg

[Zane71464]

I'm not real happy with the end results and might take GunHuggers and Snakedrivers advice on the subject and re-do it before it does have time to cure to much.
The first mistake was start it in an open building with HIGH humidity.
After seeing how the base coat was going on, I got a bit into a panic mode and rushed the job....I was looking for a more of a flater finish and may still
yet, go over it lightly with some fine steel wool and go for a more-of-a duller
finish.