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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 72
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I sold my .44 mag redhawk to build an AR15. I am familiar with them to a certain extent but mostly on using one and not tearing it down to basic pieces. The Purpose for this ar is varmint, defense, and urban combat. Sub moa accuracy isnt necessary, but would be nice. Below are the parts I plan on using. Please comment if you feel other parts may be better suited, cheaper, or if I am lacking anything. (especially the small parts) and I am on a VERY TIGHT BUDGET. Right now i have $350 for the upper- bought wife a 38 spl with the other half.
$130- Wilson arms 20" gov profile stripped barrel (may cut down later for dissipator look) from JSE SURPLUS $60- palmetto A3 blemished upper reciever, stripped (contemplating LAR Grizzly upper for $90) $10 rifle length gas tube with roll pin $40- MOE rifle length hand guards BCG- undecided Handguard Cap YHM flip up sight/ gas block combo Charging handle Flash hider What else? Thanks in advance.
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#2 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 329
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#3 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,113
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do you already have the tools? unless you have them or know someone who will do it free, I would just get one assembled like the one Maine posted there.
If you build that yourself, you will need: upper vice block barrel/combo wrench finish chamber reamer go/no go gauges but those parts look like fair prices to me, I don't see any issue with anything there. What lower are you looking at, just curious
__________________
"Loud noises don't end gunfights.... well placed shots do."
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#4 | |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 329
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Quote:
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#5 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 72
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I have a buddy at work who is a colt armorer and I also know a couple of local gunsmiths. That price for the assembled upper is good, but not exactly what I wanted. I will likely use my colt lower for now until i save up for a spikes or stag lower. Might go palmetto if $$ gets tight.
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#6 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,113
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sorry, just assumed that was implied
. but yes, roll pin punch set if you don't have one needs to be part of your kit and a inch pound torque wrench is a good idea although not 100% necessary.you want a big shop/machinist hammer or very large brass hammer and a very good set of regular punches. You will be hammering away quite a bit on the upper. I also use a set of paintsticks to get free float handgaurds lined up true, there's probably other better methods but putting a paint stick on the receiver flat top and one in front of it on the handgaurd before you tighten it; line them up by eyeballing it close as you can and torque down. learned to build mine from a guy that worked at Oly arms so I never really read any AR books but for certain if you've not built one, find a good book or someone who knows how to build them. They're not hard but do require a certain degree of compitence.
__________________
"Loud noises don't end gunfights.... well placed shots do."
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#7 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,113
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Quote:
__________________
"Loud noises don't end gunfights.... well placed shots do."
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