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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 607
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JLA is onto something here. I just did the P32 this morning. I took her down to the pieces and degreased everything. The gun was spotless clean before I degreased. I took a tooth brush and scrubbed it into the parkd finish and put some heat to it. This stuff pulls the carbon build up on a microscopic level. I got so much carbon out of the what I believed clean finish it was unreal. I set it outside in the cold to let the lube set in and wiped off the extra. Put it back together and she is slick.
I love this stuff. However I will not do any other guns right now because I don't think it will do any better than SBGO does on the shotguns and XD9. I know it will work great on them it's just that I love my standard lube that much. I will concentrate my testing on guns I carry that I sweat on and do not desire petroleum products so close to my skin.
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My belief is stronger than your advice |
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#27 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,309
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I scrubbed the bore of my newly aqquired 03A3 last night. It was a clean bore mind you, rigorously cleaned with butch's bore shine.. I put some frog on a bronze brush and stroked it up and down the bore 20 or so times and hit it with a blow dryer. Then swabbed it out.. BLACK!, then a few dry patches and scrubbed it again, blowdryer, swabbed, BLACK! Heat is indeed the trick Boris. I scrubbed and blowdryed 3 times before my patches came out green with bronze flecks in it. And the bore was bordering on a religious experience when I was done..
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It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
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#28 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 607
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First range test done.
The P22 was like a new gun. For some reason after about 100 rounds it gets dirty enough in the firing pin channel that it will not fire in the DA because the hammer does not go to full cock and hits with less pressure. Well I fired 200 rounds and the next 50 I fired all DA and it never misfired a single time. All I did for cleanup was wipe it off and I got more carbon from just a rub down than any clp could have soaked up. This stuff is an awesome cleaner and a very good lube. The hassle of getting all the oil out and heating is worth it! The Glock as always ran perfect. I shot a bunch of UMC 230 ball and that stuff is loaded HOT. No muzzle flash but rem primers are always sparky, plenty of sparks came out of the muzzle. Cleaned up the same way, just a wipe. I don't usually clean her until she hits 1k but I did to see ho the frog lube works. After 300 rounds it wiped off all carbon. Best cleaning lube I have used period. I plan to use it on every gun I carry to keep petroleum products away from my skin. Someone needs to do a rust test on this stuff to see how it holds up to long outdoor exposure.
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My belief is stronger than your advice |
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#29 |
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Forum Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Vestavia, AL
Posts: 122
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Sorry I have been away for a while. Between work and kids it has been unreal this month.
Boris, The rust tests have been done but we are always looking for others to help out with this as well. The basics are that you will see just a little rust happening on the metal but nothing will pit or be a hard rust like what I have seen with CLP and other stuff in the past. The rust will basically wipe right off with just a cloth and the FrogLube will still be there to protect the metal. |
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#30 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Old Dominion
Posts: 564
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I have been using it also, I am impressed with it.
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"Far better it is to dare mighty things, than to take rank with those poor, timid spirits who know Victory Nor Defeat" Teddy Roosevelt |
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#31 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 607
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I been back home a little bit now. I stored the guns I did earlier in leather holsters in NC humidity for just under 6 months. No rust at all. Even did the CZ82 before I left. Real smooth and no rust at all.
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My belief is stronger than your advice |
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#32 |
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Forum Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Vestavia, AL
Posts: 122
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Thanks for the feedback gents. If you want to place orders please let me know so I can get you taken care of. I have been away from the boards for a while due to work and lots of other family issues but now those are cleared up.
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#33 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 3,617
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Ive been using frog lube for a while and I like it too but I'm using it in a non firearm related way. Sealed wheel bearings. I heat the lube up slightly to liquify it, drop the bearings in and agitate them till all the bubbles stop and let it sit and thicken. It works fantastic, makes them run nice and smooth. I though that after the bearing heated up the lube may leak out but I don't think the bearing ever get that hot anymore since the friction is so low now.
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Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com |
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 607
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Latest test. Fired a bunch of corrosive 7.62x38R from the 1895 Nagant. Did not clean it, but only covered the bore, chambers and gun in frog lube and never heated it up. Stored in a leather holster and one month later there is no rust.
Today I removed all the carbon from the XD9 barrel, hit it with brake cleaner and put a patch of frog lube down the barrel and still got some black out. This stuff is a great product.
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My belief is stronger than your advice |
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#35 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Michigan
Contributor
Posts: 1,412
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Quote:
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#36 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posts: 15
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I have used FrogLube on my 1911 that I shoot in Single Stack Division(USPSA) for about 6 months. I have noticed that I can shoot more rounds between cleanings and when I clean the gunk is easier to remove. Also, the action 'feels' slicker.
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Semper Fi ... Molon Labe Last edited by .45 acp nut; 12-02-2012 at 02:11 AM.. Reason: Felt like it! |
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#37 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 552
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Quote:
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#38 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,309
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I have been just using it on my BP revolver. I like it. it works great.. But I like SBGO better for metal to metal moving parts.
__________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
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#39 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 552
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Whats your thought on ballistol??? Have you ever used it??
Last edited by ejkoechling; 12-03-2012 at 09:27 PM.. |
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#40 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,309
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no. Only other lubes i use besides SBGO and frog are Sea foam deep creep and occasionally rem oil.
__________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
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#41 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Meridian, Idaho
Contributor
Posts: 6,945
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#42 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Shamokin PA.
Posts: 157
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I got my 4oz frog Lube kit today, and gave my Hi-point carbine a good treatment. I like how after apllying it to the parts it is dry to the touch after cooling, yet still nice and slick. Also amazed at how much more dirt I got out of the barrel that I had cleaned after the last time I shot it, and got clean patches from it. The frog lube seems to be a good product compared to Hoppes that I've been using since I started shooting. The only thing I do not like about the kit is the brush, the bristles comeout way too easy.
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#43 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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I am ready to clean and lube my Savage 1915 with a FrogLube kit I bought that includes solvent, liquid CLP, and paste CLP, and I am still a bit confused about the process and what to use where.
Searching the archives I find the stickey that says: "...we recommend reuse after every use; liquid in the internals and paste on the externals....the difference between the paste and the liquid...an additive called PAO , Poly-alpha Olefin. Hi grade biodegradeable cutting oil.... It prevents solidifying---keeps it in a liquid state...So you can get FrogLube in places you can't reach with the paste." So... First question - is heat recommended using for the solvent? Or is heating recommended only for applying the CLP so it soaks in better? Second question - is the liquid for internals and paste for the externals the definitive recommendation? Am I correct to assume the Poly-alpha Olefin is in the liquid and not the paste? If so, is there any advantage to the paste over the liquid? Third question - is there an upper limit to the heat to be used? Hair dryer or heat gun? Or a Temperature not to exceed when applying the CLP? Fourth question- heat first and then apply? Or can paste be applied on the externals and then heated? My inquiring mind needs to know. |
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#44 |
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*Administrator*
Join Date: Feb 2001
Contributor
Posts: 8,749
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Your questions should be answered in the info above.
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#45 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Akron, Ohio
Contributor
Posts: 4,720
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Ballistol is a good product if you want a quick all in one cleaner and lube in a can. Good item to have in your range or bug out bag, but for a really thorough lube and rust preventative after cleaning, SBGO is hard to beat, though I haven't tried Frog lube yet.
__________________
"Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty, or give me death!"
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#46 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Thanks, I had read this thread before I posted but still had some questions. So...
Is heat recommended when using the solvent? Is there a temperature not to exceed when applying the CLP? Can paste be applied and then heated or is it best to heat first? Is there an advantage to the paste over the liquid? |
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#47 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,309
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The heat is a method of application derrived from our own use of the product. Heat is good, use it. A hairdryer on high will suffice.
__________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
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#48 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Eaton, Indiana
Posts: 79
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Hello everyone I am new to this forum. i have been using Froglube for about a year and love it. I have never tried the heat method but will now, I can tell you that I carried my muzzleloader a lot this year for deer hunting, and being out in the cold then in a warm house several times it would draw moisture as soon as i stepped in the house, and no rust at all.
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#49 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 3,161
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Welome to the forum Tdubb;
you have found the friendliest shooting forum around. It's a great place to hang out and share ideas and thoughts. We like good discussions and to help each other out. Pull up a chair and keyboard and enjoy. |
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#50 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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Is it possible to get a sample of this frog lube? I have never heard of it before
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