Duracoat/Molyresin question

[imajarhed]

I am curious if anyone knows if either of these finishes are too thick to cover a firearm with laser engraved serial #'s.

I am doing some trading tomorrow for an IMEZ Makarov PM/IJ70-18A and the serial appears to have been laser engraved. I can't tell how deep they are from the images and wonder if any Makarov experts would know. Being the one who can't leave well enough alone, I would like to customize it with some color. Duracoat-tactical gray green frame/slide w/ OD grip.

Thanks in advance

[Helix_FR]

Ive done some Rugers in duracoat that utilize laser engraving and never had a issue with it as long as you coat till it covers and not slop it on. Molyresin is about the same consistency.

[Bindernut]

The etching on the IJ-70s isn't very deep so you do need to keep the coating thin.
I don't have any pics of it, but I did one with oven-cure Cerakote a few years ago.

I haven't used Duracoat but I'm pretty sure it's basically the same system as Cerakote's air dry stuff. Duracoat does have an oven-cure system too.


As long as you do thin coats it won't fill in the markings. Just like any spray paint, thin coats make for a tougher finish less prone to chipping than if it gets laid on too thick anyway.
I use an airbrush to apply the color coat with the oven-cure stuff. My setup is a Paasche & I use a #5 tip (1mm) although a #3 (0.6mm) tip will work in a pinch too.

[JLA]

I use cerakote exclusively in HVLP guns equipped with .8 tips. I have one for dark colors and one for light colors.

[Maine04657]

Dura coat if done right will not obscure marking even laser etching.

[Mac's!]

My only experience with duracoat, is removing it to apply our Tuff-Gun finish which uses Gunkote 2400 Series resin. However, I have quite a bit of experience with the different types of serial number application methods used on Makarovs.

There are three types used on Makarov's:
The hard stamped type, which is letters/numbers stamped right into the metal. It's very durable and can be recovered.
Stiple stamped, which looks like a bunch of dots stamped into the metal in the shapes of letters/numbers. It's also very durable and can be recovered.
Laser etched, which is cr@p! It can be removed by a kid with a pencil eraser and can never be recovered. Once gone, it's gone forever. Holster wear and surface rust will also make it go away.

Any finish applied to the laser engraved serial numbers on a Makarov will make it vanish. Those used on American made firearms seem more durable but not by much. Those used on Makarov's seem more like an ink stamp.

Two things:
If you have a so-called laser engraved serial number on your Makarov, do your self a favor and etch/stamp, etc. the same number elsewhere on the frame like under the grip. If you plan on applying ANY type of finish to it, mask it off. Just make a little box around it with tape or latex masking compound and apply the finish.

Be advised: I have written about this same subject quite bit on Makarov.com and have spoken with ATF for hours about it. Per ATF: If you cause that number to be degraded, blurred, defaced, etc...whether it be by refinishing, holster wear, surface rust, handling, etc.....regardless of whether it's intentional or not...you are committing a felony!

Now the good news. ATF has no clue which type of stamping is used on which Makarov or where it's placed except that it has to be on the frame. I've found them on the sides of the grip frame, under the main spring, inside the trigger guard, etc. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

[jim brady]

Great post, imajarhed. Pretty helpful. Been thinking about doing a Duracoat finish on an old French 1935A (they were painted some sort of black originally). I'm not a great fan of paint-on finishes, but that MAS would be an exception. Just have to figure out what finish/color to match the original. Please detail your project here - a lot of us out here would like to learn more about the process and how it turns out for you. Have fun!