Cleaning products??

[shooter]

ok i need some gun cleaning products to clean a springfield xd40..what will i need?

cleaner/degreaser
bore cleaner
oil
protectant

anything else? i dont want to go out and buy 10 different products if i can help it so the more stuff you can get in one can that would be great ,will cleaner/degreasers get the copper and lead out or do i need a separate product for that
are Gunslick products any good?

[southernshooter]

I don't know what finish your XD has but my XD-45 has the bi-tone so I just pick up any Hoppes#9 cleaning kit and use the Nitro and oil that comes with it. do a detailed strip and clean and after reassembling I wipe the stainless looking slide down with a Silicone clothe and that's it.
If you want to create your own kit you should need;
Nitro solvent or your favorite bore and action cleaner
Gun Oil and lube
A cleaning rod with a patch holder
your caliber, Brush and mop
some patches designed for you caliber or somethin close
Q-Tips for the hard to get spots
And I am probably forgettin somethin but oh well

[shooter]

i have the black slide/od green frame
but i do plain on getting it refinished prb in the hard chrome or stainless

[shooter]

if i can get a cleaner/degreaser/copper cleaner in one that would be nice..i should prb go and actually pick up the product and read what it does

[Pistolenschutze]

There are lots of good products on the market, shooter. Personally, I like either the tried-and-true Hoppes #9 or Break Free for a thorough cleaning, but I will sometimes use a product called Power Blast for a quick cleaning without disassembly if I know I will be shooting the same gun again within a day or so. I never use a degreaser unless I have some specific reason to need all oil-based material removed, as for example, if I plan to do some spot bluing. Most of the modern products leave a slight protective film on the metal after the excess is wiped away which protects and lubes without feeling oily.

[ironsight65]

I agree with Pistol. I have used Hoppes bore cleaner and Break Free CLP for years and have always been pleased with the results. I usually coat all metal surfaces with Break Free after cleaning and let it set overnight to give it a good protective coating against moisture and rust.

[yellowf4]

Living here in Nevada where we have tons of blowing sand and dust as well as lessons learned in the Gulf and many years of worn out autos, PLEASE take this advice all of you. Gun scrubber works well, but can destroy some of the lesser quality polymer frames. Try it inside the mag well before you ruin the outside of the gun. If it works, ise that first to break up big junk. Sovent is pretty much a personal choice, I prefer the smell of #10, and it works. The biggest problem with sutos that most people miss when they lube the slide rails with oil is that oil alone is not enough. Grab you slide and try to rock it side to side like an old worn out Colt 1911. Is it loose? If so, it is because of improper lube tactics. Take a small worm size glob of the Moly lube that now comes from several sources in a neat syringe type applicator and put about an inch worth right at the back of the slide rails. Next, put 2-3 drops of a good oil (Break Free, etc) and put that on top of the moly. Now put slide on and run back and forth. We have been doing this since the first war in 91 and have very few worn out slides. Copper solvents are usually not neccessary on handguns because the velocity isn't high enough to get transfer. Thoughts?

[berto64]

I got involved in a conversation in the 1911 forum a while back about lubing a SS 1911 and was told that molylube is excellent.

That got me to thinking (ouch) and I had to dig thru all my old cleaning kits til todaym I found it!

A little silver tube of "Gunslick" anhydrous colloidal Graphitic sportsmen's lubricant still in the little red box.

I remember my dad using this stuff on everything that moved on all of his guns. It is black and nasty like anything with graphite as an ingrediant tends to be but is a great product for keeping actions smooth & slick. It says 'Product of Outers Laboratory, Onalaska, Wisconsin on the box.

Outer's still makes it. It's listed on the gunslick webpage. I have no idea of any effects it might have on tupperware. We always used it on steel firearms back in the day before composites.

[Pistolenschutze]

Originally Posted by berto64

Outer's still makes it. It's listed on the gunslick webpage. I have no idea of any effects it might have on tupperware. We always used it on steel firearms back in the day before composites.

I know this product well, Berto, and like it, especially for use on the military rifles I often rebuild. As for "Tupperware," pistols, it won't hurt the frames, but normally it's just used on the steel parts and works well for its intended purpose.

[jggonzalez]

I use M-Pro7 to clean and lube all my guns. I've used other stuff, but M-Pro7 doesn't smell and is non-toxic. It also seems to clean quicker than the stuff I've used in the past. I like the idea of grease on the rails instead of just oil. I use RIG +P stainless steel lube for that and it works great. Just put a glob on and work the slide back and forth like everyone else says.

Regards,

Joe

[Marlin]

I use Prolix® as a cleaner/lubricant for the same reason. It is easy to use, works better than any I've ever used in my 60 years of cleaning guns and it keeps them lubricated without any fanfare.

It is great on any rifle or handgun, including black powder.

[Sackett]

Prolix and a Boresnake.