Re: Chamber rust--how do I stop it once it has begun?
Have to agree that fully drying before oiling is the key. If the steel has become porous there prob is moisture remaining that a water displacing agent can't remove.
I've noticed that B/P substitutes tend to crud up pretty fast. Is there a lube that you could use that would soften the crud and make it easier for you to clean?
I shoot an original Smith Carbine and using HOT HOT water to clean with is the way to go. HOT water and dish soap dissolves the residue very well, warms the steel, and aids in drying. After cleaning, I lay all the parts on a tray and leave them on an open pre-heated oven door. I leave them on the hot door till I think they're dry, then wait another 1/2 hour or so. When they're too hot to pick up comfortably, there's no moisture to worry about. Then coat with a light layer of Ballistol while warm. Wipe off residue, reassemble, and store in a dry area. (Of course I don't expose the forearm or butt stock to the oven heat!) Rifleing remains sharp, and the bore's still bright.