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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1
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I recently bought a CVA Wolf 50cal inline muzzy. I bought a box of the 50/50 777 Pellets and a packet of the powerbelt 245gr. aerotip bullets. What im wondering is, is 100gr. of the pellets plenty to take deer to 150 yards...Also if i use two of the pellets (100gr.) Where should i set my gun to shoot at 50? 100? yards to hit close at 150-200yds? I will be hunting whitetail deer. thanks!!!!
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#2 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Raised in Buzzard Roost near Frog Town in hillls of Kentucky
Contributor
Posts: 1,471
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100 grains is more than plenty to take deer at 150 yards. The flintlocks would shoot out to 00 yards accuratly, took practice, with 80 grains pof powder and round ball so 100 grains in a modern in-line with the powerbelts is plenty. I would suggest looking into some of the saboted rounds over the powerbelts . I have used both and the powerbelts loose a bit out past 100 yards as to accuracy. The Hornady Extreme Shock is an excelent and easy to load saboted round. As to setting the zero, I would set zero at 150-200 yards if you think that will be your regular shooting distance. I set mine at what I figure will be my average shooting distance, then I shoot closer than that and farther than that, check at what difference that makes as to where the round hits teh target at, and try to keep a mental note of it. IF zeroed at 100 yards and at 200 yards you hit 10" low, keep in mind to aim about 10" high at 200 yards if shooting at a deer that far. Same as to closer, if zeroed in at 100 and you shoot 4" high at 50, aim a bit low at 50 yards. There are scopes out tehre though tat will have built in compensaters to atke the guess work ot but a bit pricey IMHO for what you can do by just rememebring where your gun shoots at certain distances. practice is the main thing, the more you shot at different distances, the more you will know where to aim when the time come. Hope this helps.
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Oath Keepers NOT ON OUR WATCH www.oathkeepers.org 2nd Amendment to the US Constitution: A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed. "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." -- Benjamin Franklin When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes Duty... Thomas Jefferson |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1
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Muzzleloaders are fairly inexpensive to shoot. I suggest you take a variety of components to the range and do your own testing with your own rifle. Write the results down if you have been shooting several rifles, so you won't forget what works best for you. I've used Triple 7 pellets (1 pellet = 50 grains of powder), and I've used Goex black powder. Pellets are easy to load, drop 2 pellets down the barrel and push a projectile of somekind down the barrel on top of the powder, put a cap on the nipple and you are ready to shoot. If you are using Goex or loose powder, you have to measure out 90 - 100 grains and pour that down the barrel, followed by the projectile and cap. Use a measure to pour powder into the barrel, don't pour from a powder flask or horn (an ember could ignite the whole flask, the bang would hurt). I've used patched round balls, sabots, and mini balls for projectile, each has an advantage. The round balls are really cheap to cast yourself, and at 100 yards thye can be very accurate. Mini balls cost more than round balls, and sabots and bullets to put in the sabots are the most expensive. In my state sabots are not legal to hunt with, but that doesn't mean you can't use them to test for accuracy. If you have more questions, post them, or drop some of the members here an email. Most of us will be glad to help you. I'm new to this forum, but I've been shooting muzzleloaders for over 20 years, and I own several, rilfes, shotguns and handguns.
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"Except For Ending Slavery, Fascism, Nazism, and Communism, WAR has Never Solved Anything" |
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#4 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Moses Lake, WA
Posts: 10,344
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Welcome to the forum Nite Ryder.
You nailed it in your post. Now I don't have to type so much. ![]() Pops |
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#5 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Knoxville Tennessee
Contributor
Posts: 2,603
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Welcome to the forum Mr.Ryder.
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"You say the Devil made do it with a smile. Raisin' hell and howlin at the moon. Well I'm gonna put your @$$ back in line. I'm gonna scare the Devil out of you." BlackBerry Smoke Song http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R513dA4peMg Nothing is "proof" against a truly talented fool. ![]() ![]() ![]() Swanshot |
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#6 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rural Arkansas. But isn't all of Arkansas rural?
Posts: 1,176
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You have some good answers here so take their advice. I prefer powerbelts in my CVA but I don't take long shots either. Most of the deer I have killed have been within 50 yards and the powerbelts are devastating at closer ranges. I shoot 2 777 pellets and have good luck with that. You might want to check the Wolf before you load more than that. I'm not sure what the capacity is on it but I know my Optima will take 150 grains of powder.
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What we do in life echoes in eternity! **** Liberals, they make about as much sense as a screen door on a submarine. If you want to be a looser the best way to get there is to hang around with other loosers. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 19
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I liked the idea of the pellets, but here in Colorado you can't use them in ML season. I have a Wolf magnum and CVA says upto 150 grains is fine though I don't shot that hot. I use loose 777 just so that I practice with what I can use in Hunting season. When you want the best results practice with what you will use when it counts.
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