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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: The true northern Cal
Posts: 1,562
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I inhereted my dads knife collection when I moved out on my own. I also left them right where I found them, in the bottom of the gun cabinet. So for some reason I was in the drawer and started looking at all the knifes. They are all rusted. To much humidity in the drawer. So what can I use to get the rust off without causing anymore damage to the blades than there already is?
Thanks
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#2 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: canada
Posts: 1,469
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light rust or heavy and pitted
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#3 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: The true northern Cal
Posts: 1,562
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Both. Some have very light rust and some have thick. Sorry the pic quality isn't real good. I want to clean them up and build a display case for them. Or somehow hang them up to show off.
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It ain't broke it just lacks duct tape. The nice thing about opinions is everybody has one. |
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#4 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,795
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On rusty machine surfaces, a bit of oil and a 3M scotchbrite pad (scouring pad) will get most of it off, and not damage the surface finish, but I have not tried it on a rusty knife blade. It may be a place to start....Good luck with these, Kirk
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#5 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Contributor
Posts: 1,467
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0000 steel wool and WD 40. Scotchbrite pads will scratch the surface.
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#6 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: cent fl.the mouse is 30 miles north.and tampa 60 miles west..
Posts: 79
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id use, navel jelly. then polish with ooo steel wool and oil of ur choice.. i finnished a few ww2 knives and bayonets this way.
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#7 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Contributor
Posts: 1,467
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Naval Jelly and other phosphoric acid rust removers will etch the metal.
Use 0000 steel wool and WD 40. It's what I use, and they pay me the big money to do it. |
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#8 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,795
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Thanks Bill,
I did not know scotchbrite would harm a polished surface. I used it on an old turning lathe that the fomer owner had kept in an unheated shop. It was very good for removing the surface rust. Just did not know it was that agressive. Regards, Kirk |
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#9 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: The true northern Cal
Posts: 1,562
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Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate it
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It ain't broke it just lacks duct tape. The nice thing about opinions is everybody has one. |
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#10 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Contributor
Posts: 1,467
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Yes. Gret Scotchbrite is what Ruger suggests using to match their matte stainless finish.
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#11 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: The true northern Cal
Posts: 1,562
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One more question. For the really bad knife should I let the wd40 soak in for a while? Or does it matter?
Thanks again
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It ain't broke it just lacks duct tape. The nice thing about opinions is everybody has one. |
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#12 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Knoxville Tennessee
Contributor
Posts: 2,603
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It may not matter, I would try to attack it with a polishing wheel and a Dremal
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#13 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,828
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#14 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Peoples Republic of the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
![]() ![]() FOML![]() ![]() ![]()
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#15 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Peoples Republic of the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
I use a Arkansas soft honing stone to work out shallow pitting. Time consuming, but good steel is worth it.
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No man stands in the same river twice If all else fails grab a rock Mi Taku oyasin |
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#16 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 216
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When presented with a moderately rusted but still otherwise good knife on which I wish to preserve whatever remains of the underlying finish, I first attack the rusted surface with water and either Zud brand or Bar Keepers Friend brand of non-scratching powdered kitchen cleanser. Both of these cleansers contain oxalic acid which slowly chemically dissolves only the rust and leaves the original metal finish intact. I make a thick slurry of the water and cleanser on the blade and work it about first with my fingers and sometimes later with a damp rag. After generally no more than two or three such applications I can at least see precisely what it is I am working with on the blade. On heavily rusted knives such as some of yours, I would also do as previously recommended with the oil and 0000 steel wool process as the first step to get the rather heavy accumulation of surface rust off. That would then be followed by a good dose of a grease busting liquid dish detergent to break down all of the residual oil caught in the metal pores. Rinse well and then give the rust dissolving oxalic acid enhanced cleanser slurry a try to get the next layer of rust and rust stain off. When done to your satisfaction, seal the knife surfaces with a light oil. I have also found that the blend of nice smelling natural oils contained in the G96 Gun Treatment product does an excellent job of protecting the surfaces of fine knives from either initial or further rust.
Last edited by Oldeyes; 09-15-2009 at 10:14 AM.. |
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#17 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northwest GA
Posts: 1,381
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While we're talking rust, I've got a little issue with my Windlass broadsword getting little spider-web shaped tendrils of rust forming on the hilt and scabbard furniture. It's been coated with WD-40 from day one, regularly re-applied. Any suggestions on a better protectant? This isn't a wall-sword, it's a real (non stainless) steel weapon. The scabbard is wood, covered in leather with steel furniture that matches the sword.
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