I've seen a couple members say they've got problems with their Marlin 60's/795's having jam issues.
Allow me help you guys out
First, avoid Remington Golden Bullet & Thunderbolts ammo.
Also known as Golden Bullsquish & Thunderduds.
Ammo does not earn bad nicknames unless it truly sucks for a vast majority of patrons.
And it is some truly dirty-carbon leftover nasty mess ammo anyway.
Marlins work better with CCI Minimags, Aguila, & other High-Quality & Match ammo anyway. NEVER USE HYPER
-Velocity ammo like STINGERS...the buffer will come apart sooner or later.
With semi-auto Marlins, the modern LSHO (Last Shot Hold Open) Model 60 & 795 share almost all internal parts, and many external. Even the stocks are made so they can be easily converted one to another. The big difference, how they load their ammo...one is tube, the other loads via clip-style Magazines.
There is a designation of New Model & Old Model 60 that you will see in Numrich & other parts websites...New Models have LSHO and different feed throats/connecting gear, Old Models (including the 99-series) do NOT have LSHO and have the Old Style feed throats/gear. Next is the Model 70/795...Old Model = 70, New Model = 795. The Papoose 70-P, is a whole other animal...but has the same action and is delineated with New/Old model same as the 60.
Item one, dissassembly.
You usually don't have to do much more than remove the action from the stock, remove the action itself from the housing for cleaning...then spray it clean with compressed air/CLP Powder Blast/CLP Break-Free, or whatever cleaner you prefer. CAREFULLY remove the bolt and try not to let the spring shoot across the room. Clean & replace.
If you want to go deeper, this Powerpoint is the best learning tool I've run across.
OK, while you have it apart...polish
the living daylights out of the Feed Ramp, the Recoil Spring Guide, the Bolt, the surfaces inside the action housing where the bolt rides, just make it all SHINE and feel smooth with No Burrs/rough feeling/etc, and make sure ALL of the original Packing Grease is removed from the action/action housing/bolt/two slots on each side of the barrel inside the housing. In short, make it all go away.
MAKE SURE YOUR EJECTOR WIRE LOOKS LIKE THIS!!!
If it doesn't, change the angle until it does!!
Ignore the commentary, it's for the process of a total action breakdown & reassembly.
Also check the Feed Throat and make sure it's not all scarred up from some Donk poking at it with a screwdriver or other implement of destruction. It should be smooth & gouge-free...if it ain't, replace it if you can't polish it out.
Next...put ONE drop of whatever oil/grease you like to use on the tip of one of your fingers and apply to the entire interior of the action & action housing. NO MORE. Then let it Air Dry for a few minutes and re-assemble the bolt/action with the housing.
Next...the trigger. Yep, they're heavy & clunky, unless you got lucky and the guy before you did some Marlin Trigger Mods or just general use smoothed things out over decades.
Now CLEAN the trigger group...again with whatever floats your boat...the important thing...Get ALL the Grease/Dirt/Grime/Gunk OUT!!
The first time you dissasemble the trigger, it's a LEARNING PROCESS.
If you have any problems, apply some Parts Blaster in the pin holes & wait an hour or three...they'll usually come out then.
Trigger Mod information...read this thread ALL THE WAY TO THE END!! Mostly because some mods turned out not so good at first...then the mods got modded
On the upside, after you've rejuvenated one Marlin, it's a FAST track to do it to others
I like to bring rimfire Marlins back from the dead. It's enjoyable
If you think of it as being a similar pain in the rump as an M-16A1, they suddenly become easier to deal with...
Regular action cleaning required, if you fire it, at the end of the range visit/hunting trip, Clean it.
The barrel...not very often...only if exposed to wetness Or once a year/
whenever the precision drops off.
When properly cleaned & maintained, I can go thru a bulk box of Federal 550's without an FTE.
Hopefully this will help a few 60/795's that have been regulated to the Back of the Safe to be brought back to life