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TheFirearmsForum.com
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North-Central Florida, USA
Posts: 600
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I am thinking of buying a Mauser and sporterizing same. Should I buy it with my C&R, or does that create a problem when I convert it? I plan on replacing the stock and trigger.
I'm guessing I should keep it off my bound book and just buy it outright.
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NOTE: The information herein is provided free of charge. In some instances, you may actually be getting your money's worth. Author of: The History and Guns of Simson & Co., Suhl www.cornellpubs.com
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#2 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DeBary, Florida
Posts: 189
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The only way I could imagine there being any issue would be if you converted it to fire a round that has been more recently developed than in the last 50 years. Even then it would only affect you when you sell it. But I'm not an expert or BATF. Check with them.
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 858
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Quote:
Anyway, by changing major parts (i.e. the stock) you will cause the gun to lose it's C&R status. Were it me I would just log it out of my book as "No longer qualifies as a C&R due to modifications", or something similar. (Kind of like how a FFL01 logs a gun out of his dealers book as being transferred to his private collection.) |
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#4 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
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You might be better just buying the gun and avoid the C&R issue. BATFE takes the position that the C&R license is for collecting curios and relics, not buying them to modify or sell. If you do decide to sporterize a gun you bought under the license, I agree with deadin about just logging it off the C&R book, since it is no longer part of a collection (not being a "curio/relic" any more).
But note that if you buy the gun with the intent of sporterizing it and selling it, you would be considered not just a dealer but a manufacturer as well if anyone wanted to push the issue. Jim |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North-Central Florida, USA
Posts: 600
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Thanks Jim, I think you and I are reading off the same page. My intention would be to keep the gun and pass it on to grandkids eventually.
__________________
NOTE: The information herein is provided free of charge. In some instances, you may actually be getting your money's worth. Author of: The History and Guns of Simson & Co., Suhl www.cornellpubs.com |
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#6 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
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Of course it depends on the rifle, but we know that "sporterizing" milsurps, even if done well, usually harms the value. (Ex. A Springfield Model 1861 in nice shape brings $2500+; one chopped down and reamed for a shotgun brings $250 or so. If I wanted to pass on a nice Mauser, say a K.98k, I wouldn't touch it other than cleaning.
Jim |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Oldsmar, FL USA
Posts: 9
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Don't!
I've done it a few times and regretted it. It's way more work and money than you can imagine to turn a milsurp into a half way competent sporter. Making a mauser suitable for a scope alone requires a low forged/welded bolt handle, a cut in the receiver for the low handle, a low scope safety or trigger with safety, and drilling and tapping for mounts with a scope jig. Add a decent stock, cutting and crowning the barrel and rebluing and it gets pretty pricey. Do it cheap and you'll end up with an incompetent junker worth much less than the original milsurp. Go to the nearest Walmart amd save yourself about $300. Last edited by jjk308; 07-09-2010 at 10:19 AM.. |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North-Central Florida, USA
Posts: 600
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Quote:
jjk308 probably has the best advice .... Walmart - especially given that I am holding out for a 6.5X55 Swede Thanks everyone.
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NOTE: The information herein is provided free of charge. In some instances, you may actually be getting your money's worth. Author of: The History and Guns of Simson & Co., Suhl www.cornellpubs.com |
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NorthWest Florida
Posts: 923
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Quote:
But if you want an inexpensive hunting rifle, there is No Better Deal than the Marlin XL7/XS7 rifles... $290 at Walmart for a .30-06/.308/other calibers. The X's tend to shoot better than most rifles under $2500, and better than many between $2500-10K. The included features are phenominal for the money....check 'em out ![]()
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Marlin Specialist Calico Specialist A gun should be a tool in the hands of a deadly weapon, not a deadly weapon in the hands of a tool. |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 13
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From a cost standpoint, (this is in general) if possible I would consider buying a rifle that already been slightly modified, like the stock cut down for a discount over a original rifle. I have only done one sporter and I used parts. Want to make a full stock based on a Arisaka. Will buy one of the many already hacked on in the 50's and 60's as the base. Will not use my CnR although most people will sell it that way.
From a CnR bound book view it depends on the newbie AFT employee who comes to see your book. The required info does not have you record the condition against original. Like any LE interface what you say determines most of the outcome. The few collectors I have known that were audited got different results, no fines or real issues, bascially recommendations on the book structure. The firearm is the receiver to the ATF. The new Savage rifles have great barrels, great adjustable triggers, improved bedding of the ugly plastic stock, detachable mags, for hunting better than good to go...If only I liked the bolt more. Cork...Collector of Swiss everything and Mossberg 22's.
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....the Soviets could not make socialism work, neither could the Chinese who have a free market economy...why does Barack Obama think it will work in the USA? |
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#11 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 98
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So you can't you just do this for a sporter?
Yugo k98 $150, rail and scope $100. The scope comes off in 5 minutes, just reinstall the ladder sight and it's a C&R again. The trigger shouldn't hurt the value. ![]() |
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#12 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
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As a general rule, "the receiver is the firearm" is true. But for C&R, BATFE has also adopted a rule that the value of a collectors' item depends in good part on its originality (and most of us would agree). In line with that position, they say basically that when a C&R item is altered so that it is no longer a collectible, it is no longer C&R.
I have never heard of any convictions or even loss of license, but I do know some "Collectors" (holders of C&R licenses) have set up in business to buy cheap milsurps, sporterize them and sell them. If or when BATFE learns of this kind of enterprise, I suspect those folks will be in trouble. BATFE also takes the position that if a gunsmith (or anyone else) buys a milsurp, sells it to someone, and then takes it back for sporterizing, he is simply performing a service. But if he buys the gun, sporterizes it and then sells it, he is a manufacturer and must have the appropriate license. Jim |
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#13 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NorthWest Florida
Posts: 923
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Quote:
And there of course are weird exceptions... Quote:
http://www.northcapepubs.com/m1gar.htm Perversely, I have ZERO problems refinishing a C&R stock if it's a beater. I do, however, use Period-Appropriate woodworking techinques and materials to restore them to proper operating function. All my collectables are FIRED REGULARLY and will be maintained to that standard. There are no Safe-Queens in my safes. Example: This 1913 Marlin 37, thusfar untouched other than cleaning, could use a stock refinishing due to many scratches upon it & nearly 100 years of deterioration. Since I use it regularly for a variety of chores, putting it in Like-New condition appeals to me. I never intend to sell it, it's going to get passed down once I get too old to shoot rabbits (death occurs). ![]() After another 100 years passes, who's going to know? Further, since I use original methods & equipment, who could tell? When it comes to Military Rifles...I say stick with Original Military-style stocks. I wouldn't change to any style that wasn't Original without a very good reason. If I were immediately gonna stick it in a Thumbhole Stock, I'd probably keep it off the books. ![]() Since you are basically going to give it to the kids...here's how to avoid headaches. 1. Go ahead and get it with your license. (saves money) 2. Wait at least 6 months, then log it off as a Gift to Kid X. 3. Pimp it to your heart's content & teach the kids to use it, just keep it in a separate safe than your C&R guns... preferrably tagged as Kid X's Rifle. 4. Or, log it off as needing massive repairs, which you will notate appropriately. Then you can do whatcha want with it. That way you are covered 9 ways from Sunday ![]() There is no minimum time limit to give a C&R as a gift, but an intelligent person wants to make their records seem normal and believable. Think like a Defense Lawyer.
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Marlin Specialist Calico Specialist A gun should be a tool in the hands of a deadly weapon, not a deadly weapon in the hands of a tool. Last edited by Big Shrek; 07-20-2010 at 05:39 PM.. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North-Central Florida, USA
Posts: 600
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As to the post above:
Great job Big Shrek!
__________________
NOTE: The information herein is provided free of charge. In some instances, you may actually be getting your money's worth. Author of: The History and Guns of Simson & Co., Suhl www.cornellpubs.com |
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