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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: In the woods of SC midlands.
Posts: 12
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I posted information on a handed down revolver in the center fire forum,
http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=82186 but probably should have posted here. I will leave the other thread with photos there for reference, rather than re-posting the whole thing. I think it is a .38 S&W Chiefs special model 36 with 3" barrel. I cannot find any info on the serial number to determine the age of the gun. Serial #:ATF-2600-xxx on the butt. Condition seems pretty good to me, but I know little of such things. Some light scratches, maybe a little rust, 90% blueing. Check out the photos on the other thread. Any info appreciated.
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#2 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
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That format is the way numbers are issued by BATFE to replace numbers removed or obliterated for whatever reason. S&W does use a 3-letter, 4-digit numbering system, but it would not be that format and would not have an additional series of numbers.
I think that gun was marked with a number assigned by BATFE. There is no reason it should not meet any logging or registration requirements. Jim |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: In the woods of SC midlands.
Posts: 12
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Would I contact the BATFE to learn when the serial number was assigned? I went to their home page, but did not see anything about serial numbers.
Is there a way to get a ballpark age from the pictures of the gun? |
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#4 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,487
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You can contact the BATFE but unless you have a compelling legal reason , I don't think they will even give you the time of day. Why is the manufacturing date so important? Open the crane, if it is marked Model 36 then it was made between 1957 and 1999. If it is not marked as a Model 36, then it was made 1951-1956.
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RonJames |
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#5 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 8,662
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Ron, by the pix in the other thread, the markings on the inside of the crane were also removed.
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Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy, and taste good with catsup - George of Lod, Year of Our Lord 297 I always take precautions. Beware the Evil Bullet Fairies.
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#6 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: In the woods of SC midlands.
Posts: 12
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Quote:
The other reason is just my curiosity about the history of the weapon. I don't think there are any other markings to help. It is not critical. |
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#7 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,487
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My rule of thumb on using +P in my own Model 36, I practice with plain 38 Special ( in fact I use wad cutters ), at the end of the session, I fire one cylinder of +P's just to make sure my sight picture is still there, and then for carry I loaded up with +p again. If you shoot high pressure loads on a continuous basis, then you are only going to shoot a very fine gun loose.
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RonJames |
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#8 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Contributor
Posts: 2,387
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it's a safe bet even if you could find out the year it was made and you contacted smith and wesson they would tell you no to +p, if made prior to 1990 something. but in the real world as stated here already practice with standard stuff and leave it loaded with the hotter stuff for serious use.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 858
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Let's see....................
No upper sideplate screw, so post 1955. 3" Heavy barrel introduced 1967. Pinned barrel pre 1982. Diamond grips, pre 1969. Put them all together and I come up with 1967-1968 if the grips are original and 1967 to 1982 if not. Did you pull the grips and see if they are numbered? |
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#10 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 218
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Just my personal philosophy: I'd stick with the ammo the gun was made for, or less.
I don't think it's worth the risk to get the extra "BANG". If you really need it for protection, you do have 5 shots. Jolly |
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