S&W Model 41 barrel fit

[steel challenged]

Does anyone know why certain 41 barrels will not fit certain frames? Is there an adjustment? Did they change them when the facrory moved to Maine??The new barrels don't seem to fit my older frames. Any info will be helpful. Thanks Steel

[Jay]

If you mean the cam lock of the trigger guard won't lock up, I've fit a couple of mine, and can post pics, but if it's something else, then I'm not sure what to tell you.

[steel challenged]

I guess the cam lock "clearence" would be the problem. It's what i was thinking but not sure. I have 3 frames and 8 barrels. The only barrels that will fit all 3 frames are the "bully" barrel and 1 of the 5 1/2" barrels. All others are "frame specific" in some manner. Even my clark custom barrel will only fit 2 frames. It's very hard trying to remember which will go where. Any help [pics or not] would be appreciated. {handshake]

[Jay]

I am NOT a gunsmith, and there may well be those opposed to my method, but it worked well for me.

If you remove the barrel and work the trigger guard, you'll see the locking cam move up into position. If it doesn't lock up, the lug will need to be relieved a bit. In the pic the bottom flat on the lug is at the top of the red square in the pic, as the barrel is bottom up. I used a precision vise to hold the barrel square, and made a guide so that my file rode square as I removed metal from the bottom flat of the lug. If you remove any material from the top flat, the barrel may not fit properly against the frame. I took two gentle strokes, then tried to lock it up. It took about 8 passes to let it lock with the same amount of tension as the factory barrel that the gun came with. It functions perfectly, and is every bit as accurate as the factory barrel. YMMV

[muddober]

Originally Posted by Jay

I am NOT a gunsmith, and there may well be those opposed to my method, but it worked well for me.

If you remove the barrel and work the trigger guard, you'll see the locking cam move up into position. If it doesn't lock up, the lug will need to be relieved a bit. In the pic the bottom flat on the lug is at the top of the red square in the pic, as the barrel is bottom up. I used a precision vise to hold the barrel square, and made a guide so that my file rode square as I removed metal from the bottom flat of the lug. If you remove any material from the top flat, the barrel may not fit properly against the frame. I took two gentle strokes, then tried to lock it up. It took about 8 passes to let it lock with the same amount of tension as the factory barrel that the gun came with. It functions perfectly, and is every bit as accurate as the factory barrel. YMMV

Jay, you may not be a gunsmith but you are doing it right regardless what you call yourself.

Ron

[Jay]

Originally Posted by muddober

Jay, you may not be a gunsmith but you are doing it right regardless what you call yourself.

Ron

Kind words, sir. I thank you.....

[steel challenged]

Thanks for the help. I do see what you mean. I do have a milling machine in my shop and can set it up square and take maybe a half thousandth and retry until they can be swapped around. I am in the middle of a project [if interested] with a 5 1/2" model 41 barrel that i have milled the front sight flat with the top of the barrel and cut it to fit a fibre optic sight. I havn't "pinned" the sight in yet, but just sticking it in place and sighting down the barrel sure helps my old eyes see much better. I see where the "davidsons exclusive" model 41 has hit the market with a removable front sight. Sure woulda' saved my a lot of work if they had done it sooner. And Jay i am really grateful for ALL our veterans that have served this nation......[SALUTE]....Steel

[Jay]

As you wish sir, but while the milling machine may be faster, the file provides much less risk of taking too much. The first half thou may be fine, but if you needed .0007 to begin with, and take the second half thou cut, you may have a fit issue that's too loose.....

Salute returned..... thank you......