First reloads, ranger report, some questions

[smlranger]

Went to range today and shot my first reloads....some 9mm and some 40SW. I learned a lot and was pleased.

1. I had loaded (10) 9mm at the low end and they did not eject well....learned that load is not going to work in my gun.

2. My other two 9mm loads (20 each) were mid range and slightly above mid range. Using a rest, they both fed well and were very accurate at 25 ft. In fact, they were more consistently accurate than the American Eagle factory ammo I shot for comparison.

3. Both of my loads (10 each) of 40SW (both low end, one with AA#2 and the other with Hodgdon HS-6) shot and fed well and were more accurate than I expected. Comparing these to some MagTech factory ammo I had, they were at least as accurate and with a bit less recoil.

Overall, I was happy with my first loads and am anxious to improve my skill at this new hobby.

My questions:

1. In getting up my casings, I picked up a few black 9mm casing with the markings Tulammo. Are these brass or steel? I don't plan to reload them but was curious.

2. My Uniflow powder measure is very consistent throwing charges, even as low as 4.2 gr. I de-greased it with alcohol but it still seems to want to hold small bits of powder after it is emptied (even if I tap on it vigoriously). How do most folks get all the powder out before using a different powder? Also, I read where someone suggested putting a dryer sheet in the measure to reduce static. Is that a common practice?

Thanks to all on this forum for being so helpful.

[Alpo]

I've never heard of putting a dryer sheet IN the powder measure - as in "leaving it there while dumping powder". But I occasionally wipe out mine with a dryer sheet. It helps to cut down on the static cling.

Tula is a Russian arsenal. I would guess, therefore, that "Tulammo" would be Russian. Russian ammo is generally (but not always) loaded in steel cases. Even if they are brass, they are probably Berdan primed, and are un-reloadable (for all practical purposes). Of course, the easy way to find out is to touch them with a magnet.

[JLA]

tulammo is steel, trash em...

The powder measure will settle down the more powder you run thru it. Im assuming its brand new.. Fill the hopper and dispense the biggest charge you can adjust it to back into the can of powder over and over, continue to do this, hopper after hopper til the internals are coated evenly with the black graphite from the powder. then empty it to switch powders and see if the powder comes out completely, if not keep doing it with another powder...

[smlranger]

Originally Posted by Alpo

I've never heard of putting a dryer sheet IN the powder measure - as in "leaving it there while dumping powder". But I occasionally wipe out mine with a dryer sheet. It helps to cut down on the static cling.

.

I wasn't suggesting leaving the sheet in the measure while dumping powder. I was intending to leave a sheet in the empty measure.

[Brisk44]

I heard you wrap it around the outside of the hopper and leave it there.( the dryer sheet)

[312shooter]

I clean the measure out with one after a reloading session and before dropping fresh powder in, this helps most of the static. Also have tried rubber band around the sheet wrapped around the outside, works well too.

[carver]

My measure has been in use for some time now, but I set it up the way JLA suggested. I call it breaking it in (running enough powder through it to get rid of any static charge). When I finish a reloading session I put the powder in the measure back into the container it came out of. At the next session I reload the measure with what ever powder I will be using, and load away once the measure is droping the ammout of powder I want. It will not make any difference if a grain, or two, of powder A is left in the measure when you fill it with powder B. I have never tried the dryer sheet, but then I have never had a problem with static cling after "breaking" in a powder measure. The drier sheet thingee is a good idea though, and one I will keep in mind if I ever need it.

[woolleyworm]

Congrats !! Sounds like it was a very good start to your load work-ups. Once you shoot a few more loads, you'll start getting a good database of what your particular gun likes and what it really really likes.

I do about the same as far as my powder measures; wipe the inside out with a used bounce sheet and then throw a full measure of powder to break it in. A can of compressed air does wonders to blow out that last little bit, just recommend that you do this outside.

[myfriendis410]

As a matter of fact, I run dryer sheets inside my measures. They happen to be for my four shotgun loaders, but the same problems arise there with static electricity. I cut a thin strip and dangle the sheet in the measure and trap the tag end with the cap. It works great; especially on powders like 296.

[American Leader]

The fabric softner sheet is wrapped around the powder measure and held there with a rubber band. It does help some with static electricity, but only a little.

[Claude Clay]

place shop mats ( 3' x 3' interlocking squares) where you stand and move about your reloading area. cost at a Home Depot type place is around $20 for a 6 pack. and were sneakers. i have not needed dryer sheets though i have started others i have set up shop for with them. its a stop-gap till you control the static at its source(s).
good luck to you and save for a crony. brings re-loading to a new level that i think you will appreciate.

[Old Grump]

Magnet all brass, I don't care whose name is on it. Trying to reload steel cases for a friend of mine resulted in a broken press for me and only 50% good loads for my friend. I was young and dumb or I never would have tried it. Still paranoid about steel cases 40+ years later. It's a quick check, takes no effort and little time.