Originally Posted by Sarge756
I think I understand your question.Don`t be afraid to wash the wood after stripping.I use the degreaser found at most automotive supply outlets.At Auto Zone it is called Purple Stuff.This is a pretty strong Alkali cleaner so use rubber gloves.It will remove the stain and the residue from the stripper you used.I scrub with a stiff brush and those plastic scouring pads that collect in the kitchen sink..Be careful on the edges as the wood will be softened and you can round them off.Rinse in hot water and soap it down with Dawn and scrub with the brush again.This will get rid of the alkali residue.Rinse again well in hot water.Towel it dry and set aside to dry completely.Put it in the sun or use a hair dryer to speed it up.This should take care of any stain in the wood.You mentioned Truoil so I thought I might give you an alternative.
I have done many stocks through the years and like most old guys started out with linseed oil and then every concoction that came on the market searching for the perfect finish. Along the way I discovered a product named "Waterlox".The original sealer is the only one I use. Awhile back this subject came up on thegreatmodel8.com and I posted the following about Waterlox:
For finish I sand in, beginning with 220 or 320 wetdry paper about 2inches square on a backing block like thick leather with a 50/50 mixture of "Waterlox" and mineral spirits. Waterlox original sealer and finish is the one you want available at Woodcrafters and online about $30 a quart. Sand with grain a small area at a time using generous amounts of the mixture.For first two passes (About a half hour or so on a buttstock use the same grit.Allow to dry between passes.For the third and fourth go to 400 and use straight Waterlox.The dough(sanding residue will have filled the grain and any damage you couldn`t steam away. For the first two or three passes don`t worry about wiping the residue off.As the wood becomes filled about the fourth pass you can wipe it down with fresh Waterlox but be sure to wipe it off before it gets tacky.If you want real shiny go to 600 or 800 grit.You can also do a finger dunk of Truoil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits and wiped off with a paper towel before it gets tacky for ultra shiny. For satin, rub it out lightly with fine steel wool and wax with a good paste wax like Johnsons.
Advantages are it gives a real handrubbed finish like Linseed oil or tung but drys much faster. Waterlox is tung oil,linseed oil,gum esters and phenolic dryers .They`ve been around since 1910 so must know what they are doing. I`ve found it gives a very durable weather resitant finish that is easy to repair when a ding occurs.
For stains to blend in a light area that you mentioned I use the powdered water soluable stains (available at Woodcrafters)and mix them with alchohol.You can apply the stain after the second or third pass with the finish and it will penetrate through the finish.A light touch with the 400 wet dry and Waterlox after the stain drys well and you can blend it in.
In that search for the perfect finish this method had a few things that appealed to me .First , you start with a stripped clean stock and after steaming dents,oil stain removal etc. you do no dry sanding and you don`t go anywhere near it with steel wool (I hate leaving bits of steel embedded to shine like stars after the finish is done). Second, you don`t whisker for there is no need for it. Refer above that the mixture of the waterlox and sanding residue fills the grain. Third, the drying time doesn`t require 24 hours hang time.I use the sun to speed things up .I can usually do a complete stock in one day or two at the most.
I purchased a bottle of the Purple Stuff from Auto Zone.
I then reapplied the stripper again, let it set for about 30 minutes.
Then I took the stripper off by spraying it down with the Purple Stuff and brush.
Then washed the Purple Stuff off with just plain water and brush.
I then dried with paper towels.
After getting it dry, it is now a good bit lighter in color (but I was really worried there for a minute because until it dried, it was much darker than it was before.
So, should I now repeat the entire, stripper, Purple Stuff, wash down process or should I just continue to spray it with the Purple Stuff and wash and dry until it gets about as light as it looks like that it might get and then start sanding it or should I just let it dry for now and then start the sanding process without doing any further treatment with Purple Stuff and wash down ?
Thanks for your assistance.