Homemade Target Stand

[Joe M]

Here is a setup I use for 100 yard .22lr;

[todd51]

Neat setup Joe.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by Country101

How well do the golf balls hold up to .22?

To go to into a bit more detail, I'll set up @ 20 and 25 yards

I'll (re) edit...

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by todd51

Neat setup Joe.

+1...nice!

[Darto]

A portable target stand for paper targets that weighs under 1 pound, is very stable, will take any power loads (I use during deer season for in the field final sighting in), and has lasted me almost 20 years (so far).

Kit used to be sold by Dixie Gun Works, no longer is:

Size: squares on flooring pattern are 3 inch square but stand can be made taller, shorter, narrower, wider, etc. by changing rod lengths.

Two metal (soft steel) rods 1/4" for vertical supports.
Two metal rods 1/4" for horizontal supports.
4 rubber O rings to support the horizontal rods on the verticalrods.
4 binder clips to hold cardboard backing to the horiz. rods.
Some push pins to hold paper targets on the cardboard.

... The Orings are chosen as a size to tightly fit on the vertical rods yet the outside diameter are bigger than the end loops on the horizontal rods, so as to trap the horizontal rods onto the vertical rods.

.... Because the Orings can move up and down, and the binder clips can move back and forth means any size cardboard backing can be used.

Rods no longer straight testimony to my poor marksmenship, yet the bullets just zing off the round rods and do little damage (this simple stand has lasted through hundreds of hits down through the years).

Binder clips, push pins in stationary business supply stores, Orings at Radio Shack electronic parts or hardware store.

[Darto]

The stand will take hundreds of shots and remain in place until the session ends, except for the cardboard and paper parts.

EDIT: could sharpen legs ends to make driving into the ground with hammer easier, and form loops on top to stick a screwdriver to pull them back out easier, but I'm lazy...

[carver]

I just bought one of these, and am anxious to try it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-j-15Oq3UU

[Darto]

Thanks, Carver!

Yours is a lightweight alternative to action shooting silouettes metallics.

Especially on the wallet!

Here is the one I built.

It requires 18' of PVC 3/4 or 1"
6 90* elbows
4 t connectors
4 end caps.

The main stand uses
6 2' pipe lengths
2 elbows
2 tees

The Feed uses
4 1' pipe lengths
2 T connectors
4 elbows
4 3" pipe length
4 end caps.

I glued it all together but for ease of PVC replacement you don't want to do that.







Now if you had the room you could put 4 arms our from the main frame and drill them for golf tees and then glue eggs to the tees and put them in the holes.

[CCHolderinMaine]

Originally Posted by Country101

How well do the golf balls hold up to .22?

Ahhh, I'm happy to say I've experimented much with this topic and can confidently say: It depends. Depends a ton on the ball, there's a 1000 different ways they build golf balls. And, it depends on your .22 round. Basic 36 grain 1200 fps hollow points do far less than super-hot Aguilla SuperMax 30 grain solids at 1750 fps. Set up a bunch and shoot em'. A back stop is nice for this task.....

[todd51]

Tango, I like it and if you don't mind I may copy it with one change. I will leave the feet off and just stick a couple lengths of re-rod in the ground. There isn't a level place on the whole 100 acres down at the range and I couldn't stand see it leaning to one side or another,

Todd it is free and open source. That means you can take my design and do what you want to with it.

I started out with no feet and using rebar but after trying to use it 5 times and forgetting my hammer every time I gave up on using rebar.

[carver]

Tango, I like it! It's light weight, and very portable. I shoot at any distance from point blank, to 100+ yds. That is what I was trying to come up with when I built the one have. Yours is much lighter, and it can be taken down easy. The problem is the wind. Around here the wind would be blowing it over all the time. The re bar would help with that, but it wouldn't be as portable. Sand bags might work well. Another thing I will change is the nuts, and bolts. I think bolts with wing nuts will work, and they can be removed, and replaced with no tools.

Carver I think I switched to wingnuts in the end.

I thought about filling the feed with sand then using something like calking or epoxy to seal it off. I ended up just making some sand bags out of old shot bags and using them to weight it down. Two on each foot worked great.

you could also use 3/4" or 1" hard foam insulation and use big clip rings to hold it on.

[STAYFROSTY]

@ carver, I bought one of the reactive self healing orange balls, I am not 100% happy with it. Keeps ne entertained for a second, but it just rolls around, Ive only shot it the day I bought and couldn't get it to bounce around with 9mm or 22. It might also help if someone mowed where we shoot!!

@ tango, I was at lowes buying pvc to build a similar target stand, I made one and filled the base with sand and sealed it off with expanda foam. (Had it laying around) but for super cheap, I picked up 3 sticks of 1" x 10' pvc for $1.43 per 10 foot yesterday, I cut them in half at an angle to make stakes, hammered in the two pieces at Target width apart and zip-tied IPSC cardboard targets to it. It really doesn't look as redneck as it sounds!!! Extremely cheap and i have 6 &7 yr olds im teaching and f they shoot the poles oh well. At .75 a pole and little work involved, easy no fuss, worry free shooting.

[vaskeet]

we use 2x4 frames with chicken wire across the opening and clothes pins to hold the cardbord targets. I save pizza box lids Randy

[aa1911]

my recent project: I usually travel to the national forest where I hunt and camp to do the majority of my shooting so I made these stands that break down flat to save space in my truck bed. The uprights are to get replaced with angle iron as soon as I get a welder, the 2x4's only last a few sessions before they get tore up with low shots.

broken down for travel:



set up:


the steels are from shootsteel.com, got all three for $118 delivered.

the uprights are hinged and 'swing' and used some heavy door springs to counter the impact. They're a little too strong to get much movement but not really an issue, they work awesome for rapid fire pistol and rifle, I even tagged the rectangle with my .458 win mag a few times, very little movement.

[1LoneWolf75]

Mine are two pallets stood up with posts and filled with dirt. Not quite thick enough at 10 yrds my buddies .45 springfield went through, we found the bullets layin on the ground right behind it. It won't stop a .243 either gonna have to get another one up n refill the front two when I fill the 3rd one. Did stop my .30-30 though.

[aa1911]

OK, after a random trip to home depot this week, I decided to get my moving target idea 'moving' hahaa...

Basically it's a simple version of the pulley movers, just plan on tying it up myself to trees or whatever on an incline and have a string release so I can operate it myself also. It's just a cheap plastic pulley for dog runs or whatever along with a 99 cent caribeaner and a $2 spring clip. I drilled a couple holes in each and bolted them together with star washer and loctite. Just need to clip the cardboard target to it and presto, moving target on a budget.







will do pics of the setup next time I get out to shoot.

[WHSmithIV]

I keep it really simple - I use a sheet of old 1/8" plywood, print 8½x11 target sheets, tack them on and shoot them. When the plywood is shot to hell I burn the rest of it in the wood stove and get another sheet of plywood All I do is nail a couple angled back legs on the plywood so that it doesn't fall over