Maltby & Henley Revolver Question.

[Old Gun Guy]

Hello!
I am trying to restore a Maltby & Henley .32 safety hammer revolver, (also known as the Spencer safety hammer revolver). I will have to manufacture the hand for it, which looks pretty simple, although I can't figure out how the spring and plunger affect the hand, and how the spring brings the hand back to the cocking position?
Anybody out there ever tackle one of these? Any help would be definitely appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Old Gun Guy

[Hammerslagger]

Does it have any patent dates on it? If so, list them.


This link might help: http://www.google.com/patents/US4139...volver&f=false

And another: http://www.google.com/patents/US3769...Asmith&f=false

Apparently, John Smith was the inventor. The patent links have drawing that can be accessed.

Hope this helps.

[Old Gun Guy]

Hammerslagger,
I believe this revolver that I am referring to was manufactured by Otis Smith, and it has a patent date of 1889. The first link is the correct one. Thank you very much!
Old Gun Guy

[45Auto]

Hi Old Gun Guy,

There are several types of these revolvers w/brass and iron frames. Anyway, I have worked on a few of them. The plunger works on a flat cut into the hand pin. This is similar to how 1st model S&W .22 spur trigger revolver hands work, except it uses a spring and plunger instead of a flat spring. Here are some images of the hand in a .32 brass frame so you can see what it looks like:

[Old Gun Guy]

Thanks Greg. Good info that I can use. One question, is the flat that is cut into the hand pin actually flat or is it beveled to work with the plunger, and is the plunger flat on top or rounded?
Old Gun Guy

[45Auto]

Good question. Although I thik it's flat, I'll take out the hand and have a look at the plunger and let you know.

[45Auto]

The notch in the hand shaft is slightly dished in, it appears to have been cut with a milling tool like a keyway cutter. The plunger is slightly rounded to match the cut in the hand shaft.

By the way, are you working on a revolver with a brass frame or iron?

[Old Gun Guy]

45Auto
I am working with an iron frame revolver. I think I've finally got the hand to work, although now the downward projection from the cylinder stop lever is not allowing the stop to disengage, probably because it is worn and won't bear on the hammer like it is supposed to.
I'll keep plugging away, and a definite thank you for your help.
Old Gun Guy

[Old Gun Guy]

45Auto,
I need one more favor if you would. This is a picture of the extension that hangs down from the cylinder stop. I know it is worn, and I will need to make another one.
Could you please show a pic of this part so I know how long it is, and how it's configured?
Thanks again!
Old Gun Guy

[45Auto]

Sure thing, but give me a day or two.

Best regards,
Greg

[45Auto]

It looks like I was able to get to it sooner than I thought. Here are the images:


Note: slight bend to the pointed portion of the spring, this part seems to be worn away or broken off on your part. Also note the ware mark accross the slanted part.



I did not take this part off the cylinder bolt because it's riveted in place.


In the above image, I tried to capture the bend in the spring part.

Good luck Old Gun Guy!

[Old Gun Guy]

45Auto,
Thank you for all your help. I may just get this old-timer working yet.
Old Gun Guy