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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 1,029
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Picked up an Echasa MAB-GZ .32 pistol, firing pin is a common problem on these, snapped at the thin section on the bottom. Any common household stuff I can use to make a new one out of? It's 3/16" thick, I was thinking that maybe one of the wife's Old Hickory kitchen knives might get lost for the cause...
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#2 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Australia
Contributor
Posts: 17,622
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lawn mower blades , old knife blades when tempered right they will last
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#3 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 1,029
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I've got a couple of lawn mower blades, have to go through the boxes of kitchen stuff in the basement and look for knives, when the wife and I got together it combined two households so there should be something that I can scrounge. Most of what I work with is aluminum so no help there...
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#4 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 208
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Something that gets banged on should be tough not hard so be careful with any tempering you may do. I would suggest a piece of stainless but any hand work you do would be difficult. On the more expensive side you could find a local job shop that has a laser or wire EDM and could write a program to cut the part. That would minimize any hand work. Once the program is written they could produce those firing pins by the hundreds and you could go into business. Just an odd thought.
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#5 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
The last job I had was at a manufacturing plant that has a laser and works pretty much in only aluminum and stainless, I'm presently planning on trying to see about going back to work for them, my shooting buddy works in the machine shop there and I may hand it off to him to fabricate some as well. |
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#6 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 93
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#7 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 1,029
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$30 and they come out of tear-downs, so it might work only a few times then bust just like the other one.
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#8 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 208
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Over the years I have programmed just about every industrial machine tool there is. In fact, I still do light programming for a local company for their plasma and oxy-acetylene torches. I always liked programming a laser. It can punch through 1/4 inch steel with a .007 kerf. Imagine, a hair-thin beam of light cutting steel.
Once you have a dimensioned drawing of the part it should take less than an hour to program it. Producing small parts for old guns might be a thought for any company looking for another line to get through the Obama years. The fact that some hand work might be required should not be a problem. A lot of people into replacing broken parts in old guns would enjoy it and the part could need a bit of fitting anyway. |
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#9 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 1,029
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I seem to run into that more and more Chris, maybe because the "oddball" guns seems to peak my interest. This one wouldn't be all that difficult to make even without a laser, I just hate to tear down my setup for a one-off like that. I've looked at my metal producers websites and may end up making a bunch as the shortest piece of even high carbon steel is 24" which would make about 27 of them if nested. Like I need another project sitting waiting for me to get around to, but they just seem to walk in the door sometimes!
I'm already keeping busy with my current product and trying to add a couple more won't be happening unless I pour a couple grand into better machinery to speed up what I'm doing now or farm it out, something I'd like to avoid at all costs. |
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#10 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Australia
Contributor
Posts: 17,622
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beats sending bits to Oz for me to make eh ?
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#11 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Australia
Contributor
Posts: 17,622
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Mogunner
a slim jim, a metal ruler, a industrial hacksaw blade ( heat treated to not be so brittle ) would all work |
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#12 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 1,029
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It's right at 3/16" at the thickest part, then narrows down at the point where both sides have the angle machined into it. Not a very good design at all, this one may be one that I just buy a tear-down pin for and then sell. They usually bring around $150 on ********* from what I've seen, no bit loss but the wife was wanting to run some rounds through it, may hand it off to her after I make sure it functions right.
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