Camouflaging a synthetic rifle stock...

[JLA]

Nah Dale the stock looks OK. the SVL vibration dampener in the barrel looks like hammered **** though..

[joncutt87]

Brake fluid takes paint off like a charm

[Zane71464]

Thanks Josh and gotta agree with ya on the limbsaver "set-up"! (came with it)
I've still got a bit of work to do on a bit of free floating the barrel and should have taken the time right after I'd gotten the rifle.
On the inside of the stock with the 2 barrel screws, I think I can raise it up enough with some aluminum/can shims.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by joncutt87

Brake fluid takes paint off like a charm

Never crossed my mind with the brake fluid, but on plastic as well eh?

[cpttango30]

Originally Posted by joncutt87

Brake fluid takes paint off like a charm

I wouldn't put any on my cheap Chinese plastic socks.

What is wrong with paint stripper and sand paper?

[Snakedriver]

The problem with most camoflage, whether it's clothing or on equipment is that it is too dark and reads as black at a distance. Often it is better to start with a light colored undercoat and add a few darker colors over it leaving ample areas of the light color showing through as contrast to the shape of the item.

With that said, a light sanding and a new coat of paint over what you've already got will work fine. Removing all the paint from the previous painting is not necessary. If a little shows through on the new job, well all the better.

...................just my opinion

[todd51]

Dale I think that looks fine especially for your first try. I agree with Snakedriver on the lighter colors. But all the examples shown here are really great and look like works of art. I know we like our fire arms to look real nice and the ones shown here sure meet that but when you get down and close to mother nature she is not pretty and in fact she is just sort of trashy. But that wouldn't look nice on a stock ha.

[GunHugger]

Originally Posted by cpttango30

I wouldn't put any on my cheap Chinese plastic socks.

What is wrong with paint stripper and sand paper?

Don't know if brake fluid would harm plastic, it comes in plastic bottles.

The problem with using it to remove paint is getting all of the brake fluid off of the stock so that paint will adhere to it as it should. If you look at these plastic stocks up close with 10X magnification you see how porous it is. Lots of little nooks and crannies for it to be trapped.

I worked in a body shop one winter long ago and brake fluid was a big bad thing in a paint shop, that and any silicone sprays. Once it's on a surface to be painted you get orange peal and/or poor adhesion of paint. They used "orange peel eliminator" that was actually silicone, it stopped the orange peeling but often the paint flaked or peeled off if too much was used.

I like lacquer thinner or Formbys Furniture Refinisher on a 3M pad to remove paint and most finished from gun stocks...or old clocks, I work on both. Stripper is needed for poly and heavy lacquer finishes only.

[JLA]

Originally Posted by Zane71464

Thanks Josh and gotta agree with ya on the limbsaver "set-up"! (came with it)
I've still got a bit of work to do on a bit of free floating the barrel and should have taken the time right after I'd gotten the rifle.
On the inside of the stock with the 2 barrel screws, I think I can raise it up enough with some aluminum/can shims.

Dale, shim the action and take a razorblade and cut that SVL into some thin slices that will fit under the barrel. you should only need one slice to give you a vibration dampening contact bedding at the fore-end and that SVL should make anough slices to do most of your rifles.

I find thin barrels generally shoot best with a contact bedding at the fore-end. and varmint to bull shoots best fully floated.

[Zane71464]

Thanks guys for the advice and comments.
I'm thinking like said above, a light sanding and another coat of flat clear coat on it will take off the "shine" and blend it a bit better. With the way I went about it, I was thinking the stock will get some abuse as is. Comes to varmint hunting, I'm a bit rough on stocks and one of the main reasons I've let up a bit with the Savage 12 BVSS.
My opinion with critter hunti'n, dont have to look purty, it's gotta work. lol

Excellent advice and info, Josh! Sounds like a plan for sure.

[JLA]

No sweat Dale. Its by no means a replacement for a real bedding job, but you can get some pretty good results on the cheap doing things like this. Heck I know guys that shoot thier custom built varmint guns with 2 strips of thin plastic between the barrel and stock for pressure, and consistently smoke G hogs and yotes out past 300.

The thing that boggles my mind is they have $2K plus in some of these rifles and their inherent accuracy hinges on 2 pieces of plastic cut from an empty milk jug or something..

One of my fav pressure bedding materials is to make spacer shims from speaker wire and bed between them with RTV silicone. then assemble the rifle and stock and torque the action screws down hard. after the RTV sets up ill disassemble and remove the speaker wire and trim the RTV pad at the fore-end. Once doen Ill reassemble the rifle and stock and without the speaker wire spacers the barrel mashes hard into the RTV pad which gives you a perfect vibration dampening pressure contact. It can work wonders for a heat sensitive pencil barrel. And yes you would be wise to put release on the barrel even if bedding with RTV. it will still glue your rifle and stock together.

Dont ask me how I know..

[Zane71464]

Awesome advice on the speaker wire and RTV Slicone Josh, never heard of it and only here, can you find the "RIGHT" tweaks that can make a big difference with a rifle shooting "crazy" accurate.
I will give that a try and thinking, between the Silicone and the barrel, maybe some small strips of aluminum tape down on the silicone to keep it from melting or adhering to the barrel.

(melts right to it eh? )

[JLA]

Nope. RTV is good to 600+ degrees. Its commonly used as gaskets on Exhaust manifolds on race engines. Silicone wont melt under barrel heat. If you get it hot enough it just turns to ash.

Squeeze a bead out on the concrete and let it harden. then take a torch to it. Youll be suprised. It wont melt like plaztik or rubber.

[Zane71464]

Was going to go for it yeasterday Josh, but wanted to see how well the rifle done at longer ranges out past 100yds before I do anything to it. Out of curiosity...was actually suprised, and going to post a couple of range reports. 400 and 600yds.

[JLA]

nice!

[JLA]

Bump dale.. Howd she turn out..??
BTW, I just did another RTV pressure bedding job on one of my rifles. I used up all my speaker wire so i improvised with beer can shims under the front reciever ring only to elevate the barrel. Its in a synthetic stock so i had to dam the area behind the RTV pad with play dough (gotta love kids). This is actually the first full bull rifle ive done this to, and its mostly just an experiment just to see how well it works with a heavy barrel. The action is already pillar bedded and the recoil lug is epoxy bedded.

[joncutt87]

Originally Posted by Zane71464

Never crossed my mind with the brake fluid, but on plastic as well eh?

Takes paint off model cars like a dream

[JLA]

Takes paint off real cars too for that matter..

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by JLA

Bump dale.. Howd she turn out..??
BTW, I just did another RTV pressure bedding job on one of my rifles. I used up all my speaker wire so i improvised with beer can shims under the front reciever ring only to elevate the barrel. Its in a synthetic stock so i had to dam the area behind the RTV pad with play dough (gotta love kids). This is actually the first full bull rifle ive done this to, and its mostly just an experiment just to see how well it works with a heavy barrel. The action is already pillar bedded and the recoil lug is epoxy bedded.

Havent had time to do much of anything as of late Josh. (as far as gun work)
I hope that works out on a heavy barelled, synthetic rifle. It should hold up all things considered.
Heavy barrel should just "seat" right in on top of it. Any elevation at all ought'a help and sure wont hurt as long as all else seats well.
I sure as heck hope I get some "free" time this week to catch up on some odds and ends that I havent had/taken the time to finish up on!

[JLA]

I hear ya dale. Been fairly slammed myself as of late. Heck up to friday afternoon I hadnt logged in here for a week.

[Zane71464]

Originally Posted by JLA

I hear ya dale. Been fairly slammed myself as of late. Heck up to friday afternoon I hadnt logged in here for a week.

About the same here Josh. Heck...I havent even had much time to even shoot some .22's!!! I'm gonna freakin' lose what touch I did have if I dont take some time. (gotta get the firewood in while it's gettable)
With all the wind damage we've had this summer, there's plenty to get.