Strange Advice from Kimber?

[dcriner]

I have a new, 1911, full-size, .45 Kimber. Here are two quotes from the instruction manual:

Repeatedly allowing the slide to slam closed on an empty chamber will cause premature wear and loosening....Ease the slide closed.

Pull the trigger allowing the hammer to free fall forward on the empty chamber. Do not "ease" the hammer down by holding or blocking it. Doing so can mar the sear tip which will result in substard trigger pull.

I've been doing both of those things for 50 years. Is this standard advice? I must have missed the memo.

[aa1911]

Yup. Proper etiquette anyway, always ease the slide but snap the trigger to release the hammer. I guess it's to keep from marring the sear/hammer at the halfcock notch.

[ozo]

"Pull the trigger allowing the hammer to free fall forward on the empty chamber. Do not "ease" the hammer down by holding or blocking it. Doing so can mar the sear tip which will result in substard trigger pull."---per Kimber

So, a semi-auto with a de-cocker would internally function differently how?

[aa1911]

decocker would accomplish the same thing as snapping the trigger unless you held the hammer.

[Double D]

Originally Posted by aa1911

decocker would accomplish the same thing as snapping the trigger unless you held the hammer.

Uhh, no. Decockers do not snap the trigger. If they did, they would fire the gun when having one in the chamber.

[76Highboy]

The hammer and sear are what can be damaged if you slam a semi auto closed while empty. It is not a good idea. I see guys do that in gun stores and cringe. It surprises me when I see the guy behind the counter do it. Also, they are not to be decocked like a revolver. That's a no-no. I see that done at gun shops too. Eeek!!!

[myfriendis410]

Part of the money you are paying for a Kimber goes to the quality of the trigger job. Due to the design, it would be easy for the hammer and sear mating surface to bounce off each other when slamming closed empty and thereby rounding off the engagement surface on the sear. Clark Custom used to make a three-finger mainspring that was supposed to mitigate that problem. I've never used one myself.

[Squeak]

Does this same advice apply to other brands other than Kimber (such as Colt)??
I've always been led to think that gun shops get p****d off when ya dry fire their guns.

[Shooter45]

It applies to all 1911's especially one with a fine trigger job.

[ka64]

Thats cuz It's a Kimber, Buy a COLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[myfriendis410]

Originally Posted by ka64

Thats cuz It's a Kimber, Buy a COLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'll stick with my Springfield longslide, thank you very much. It makes absolutely no difference whose 1911 you do that to, including and most especially Colt. It's called "Hammer Follow" and has been present on ANY 1911 with a trigger job. So; keep an 11 lb. factory trigger pull and you won't have any trouble. Combatize it and you have to exercise some caution.

You CAN pull the trigger before you drop the slide (which engages the disconnecter), but that is a very bad habit to get into in real life. It just begs for an A/D in a live fire situation.

Originally Posted by ka64

Thats cuz It's a Kimber, Buy a COLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please enlighten me as to the reason my Kimber is subpar? My Kimber that has 5,000+ rounds down the tube and has never failed to fire or had any mechanical malfunction what so ever. Oh let me guess because I didn't pay 3 times as much for a Colt to get less for my money? Because they use MIM parts in some areas. From what I have heard MIM parts shouldn't last 5 rounds nothing in my gun shows signs of excessive wear.

[myfriendis410]

Originally Posted by cpttango30

Please enlighten me as to the reason my Kimber is subpar? My Kimber that has 5,000+ rounds down the tube and has never failed to fire or had any mechanical malfunction what so ever. Oh let me guess because I didn't pay 3 times as much for a Colt to get less for my money? Because they use MIM parts in some areas. From what I have heard MIM parts shouldn't last 5 rounds nothing in my gun shows signs of excessive wear.

Your Kimber is top-of-the-line embodying the peak of perfection in a fighting handgun. I have nothing against Colt, but I too don't care for the elitist attitude of some Colt owners. IMO your pistol is a far better bargain.

[dcriner]

I have two full-size 1911s - a Kimber .45 and a Colt .38 Super. I would rate them equally for fit, trigger pull, and reliability. Both are stainless steel - but, I prefer the Colt's finish. The Kimber came with Meprolight illuminated and adjustable sights, while the Colt came with regular steel sights. The Colt came with two magazines, but the Kimber came with only one. The Colt's plastic carrying case is a little bit nicer and more compact.

[bountyh]

Originally Posted by dcriner

I have a new, 1911, full-size, .45 Kimber. Here are two quotes from the instruction manual:

Repeatedly allowing the slide to slam closed on an empty chamber will cause premature wear and loosening....Ease the slide closed.

Pull the trigger allowing the hammer to free fall forward on the empty chamber. Do not "ease" the hammer down by holding or blocking it. Doing so can mar the sear tip which will result in substard trigger pull.

I've been doing both of those things for 50 years. Is this standard advice? I must have missed the memo.

It is a given that you don't drop the slide on an empty chamber, it stresses the barrel lugs and can also wear the trigger group.

As for "easing the hammer down", it's fine if you do it correctly: pull the hammer all the way back with thumb. pull trigger fully, then let hammer down. If the hammer "drags it's way by" the sear it can score the sear face. Dropping the hammer on an empty chamber is OK except for the times the chamber isn't empty......