Stuck pull-pin on old Forehand rev.

[dartswinger]

What I have is a Forehand Arms Co. Worchester Mass. double action 6 shot 32 rev. only pat. date is June (2?) 1881 pull pin type. Pin is totally stuck/rusted into cylinder, cannot be removed! Pin not stuck in frame as it revolves freely with cylinder. Cannot try to tap out from rear with punch as someone already tried that and really buggered it up, nothin' left to punch! Is there any trick to break this pin loose from the cylinder? Shooting didn't work (yeah, this thing actually shoots yet) Been spraying it with WD40 for over 1 1/2 weeks. The pin lock in the frame has been removed Can I soak this in something or ??????
Another question: Anyone know where I can find a "lifter" for an Iver Johnson safety hammerless 'New Model' .32 rev.? I super glued a piece in the hammer notch to contact firing pin and this piece is 100% functional if only I could find Lifter. Half of old one still in, but broke off.

[john323]

Put it in a bucket of Kroil and forget about it for a week or so.

[Old Gun Guy]

dartswinger,
I know what you are going through. Those stuck pins are definitely frustrating. You might as well face the fact that the pin is shot, so your main concern will be to save the cylinder. I had one like you described. I continued to soak it like you are doing. I grabbed the end of the pin with a vise grip to hold it, and then I turned the cylinder to break it loose. You have to make sure you pad the cylinder so as to not mar it up. Try this after a good soaking period, and if/when it breaks free, you will need to debug the rear end with a Dremel tool, again being careful not to ding up the cylinder. When tapping it out from the rear, I use a nail set because it will put an indent in the middle of the pin without mushrooming it.
Good luck, and I hope this helps!
Old Gun Guy

john323 has the right idea. I soak my stubborn parts in a mixture of Kroil, wd-40, kerosene, and acetone. I have a special container for the job because acetone will eat most plastic containers. I put the parts in this solution, and forget about them for a couple of weeks. Never soak parts with the grips attached, as you probably already know.

[Jim K]

I have had some success by clamping the pin in a vise (using copper jaws) and tapping the end of the barrel with a deadblow hammer, lead or leather faced.

WD-40 is not a real good penetrant; I like G96 Gun Treatment for spray, or Kroil for soaking.

Jim

[Max Donovan]

It will never come out; rust is seven times as big as iron. If you have endshake, use a jeweler's saw in the cylinder window to cut the pin, first in front, then in back. Be careful of the ratchet. You cannot time a revolver with endshake, so drill out the rod then install a bushing to replace the too-short front flange on the cyliner. Yes, you need a lathe, but every gun person needs a lathe or a friend with a lathe. Write if you need more help, Max

[Jim K]

Worrying about endshake on an old F&H revolver is like being concerned with gas mileage in an oxcart. Retire the old clunker to wall hanger status and if you want to shoot a revolver buy a modern gun.

Jim