Hello , and yes Iv'e used this and the "birchwood" product line with OK success for small areas or "complete" bluing.
But cold blue is not as good as heated bluing or commercial techniques.
If you can get the "Birchwood three" bottle kit , use that. Down the road at Cheaper thn dirt , is where I get mine , or Cabellas may still have it.
Main thing that has helped me, use the Cleaner/Degreaser between applications of the Bluing.
Obtain a good grade 000 wool , theres a pad 000 steel wool in Home Depot paint area works good for me. After cleaning , apply bluing , wait per label- 1-2 minutes , lightly rinse with water , then use 000 to very lightly blend bluing to existing...will or may take several applications..but dont try to do a large area.
Remembered edit -- be sure when you are happy with results ,, you lightly coat area with fine gun oil and leave overnight - this will finalize CURE of the substance and make coloring last longer---
Others may have better advice, or also try other technical forum within TFF. When I have stripped a gun , Ive always wanted to try a "black bluing" product Ive read on , but cant find locally. I have also heard of people having results by heating part in cheap counter oven to specific temps and having good results with home "parkerizing" kits ...if you want gray or black....
thanks for the detailed reply. i didnt know these products existed til just a few minutes before i posted this thread and i just wanted to see if anyone has had any luck with it before i started researching it more. hmmm, gray seems very interesting...im definetly gonna look into that. thanks again!
ok, gonna go with the birchwood casey products. i have 3 guns to refinish. im gonna do one brown, one black and one blue. ill post before and after pics and let everyone know how it goes. thanks for the help.
One thing that I was taught was to always wear white cotton gloves when handling the metal.You don't want any oils from your skin to affect the metal. This will make a big difference in how your finish turns out. Also, it helps greatly if you heat your parts in an oven and apply the bluing or brown to warm metal.
Location: DAV, Deep in the Pineywoods of East Texas, just west of Shreveport, LA
Re: does this stuff work?
Do it like 1shot1k says. I use denatured alcohol to clean surface to be reblued, and I use 0000 steel wool. Not that it matters. Apply blue, wait at least one minute, rinse with water, polish with steel wool. Repeated applications will result in a darker blue. Cure with gun oil over night. And like he said, if you want a quality re-blue, take your gun to a gunsmith who is experieced in refinishing guns.
Y'all be safe now, ya hear!
Without God we have no moral compass. Without Family we have no purpose. Without Guns we can not defend either our religious choice, or our family! Millwright
monkey_hollow - i was taught that in metal shop in high school but forgot all about it. thanks for the refresher
carver - yup, sounds like 1shot knows what he's talkin about so im gonna do it like he says. thanks for the tips. and i would take it to a gunshop but i enjoy doing things myself. before i buy something i always check to see if i can build it cheaper lol.
If you are planning on refinishing a complete gun-don't. Cold blues are for touch-ups only, regardless what the container says. They don't hold up like professional bluing, they stink, and the "bluing" is usually a copper sulphate plating. Cold blued guns can be spotted from across the room.