Re: Casting bullets
I use the same one. I have two that I keep with different alloys. Loading for the handgun, as long as you keep the velocity below 1,000 fps, range lead and a bit of tin will do you fine. You need to cast from a hot mold but not too hot. Practice will determine the sweet spot for each mold. You can cast more than one bullet at a time and by alternating you can keep them at the nominal temperature. Usually five or six pours before the mold needs to cool off.
Looking at the bullet will tell you a lot about your technique. Too hot is as bad as too cold. Wrinkled bullets indicate your mold and/or your melt is too cold, and a frosted bullet is indicative of too hot for either or both. Be heardhearted about the quality of your finished bullets; just dump the bad ones back in for re-pouring. Some molds like to be filled while in contact with the pour spout, some like to have an inch or so of drop. It just takes some experimentation to find what is best.
Here's a group shot from my Sharps at 100 yards with a home cast bullet:
There are resources on the net you can look at as well, that can help you in your bullet casting. My experience is that pistol bullets are easier overall to achieve decent results than trying to cast for a rifle. All of the calibers you listed work well with a cast bullet.
I cast for the .45 acp and for the 45/70, and, with the former, my per loaded round cost is less than a .22 rimfire to shoot.
A good luber/sizer is recommended, but you can use Lee's tumble lubing stuff to achieve shootable bullets.
Be warned; it's addictive. Use in a well-ventilated area and wash your hands before eating or smoking. It's taken me 30 years to get a cast bullet to shoot really well in a rifle, so don't be surprised if you have indifferent accuracy when you start out.
Here's an example of a 100 yard group shot from my Sharps at 100 yards. It took four months and hundreds of rounds downrange to get decent results.
Life's too short to shoot an ugly gun.....