|
![]() |
|
|
TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
If you prefer to make a donation by check,
send an email to Support for the mailing address. |
|
|
#1 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Minnesota
Contributor
Posts: 2,760
|
I'm processing wheel weights and lead pipe into ingots. I am going to mold 45 ACP and 10MM Auto bullets. Do I need a Lead Hardness tester to get the alloys just right?
-->
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Australia
Contributor
Posts: 17,622
|
lead just right ?
dont ask how to get it just right there'll be 4000 answers and most very different pure lead is a bit soft , zinc is safe to use as a hardener 12 parts leads 1 of zinc but you have to get the temp up and that risks lead oxide fumes so only outdoors and with a particulates mask eh antimony is better but expencive thats what they use in printing plates along with tin 14 lead -20 lead pats per 1 part antimony tin can be added too but again you'll need to get the temp high 12- 19 parts lead to 1 of tin your choice on the mixes everyones different mine is 37 parts lead 1 of tin and 2 of antimony fluxed well and away we go Last edited by jack404; 08-27-2012 at 08:27 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lompoc California
Posts: 542
|
Wheel weights are (if I remember correctly) about 80% lead and 20 antimony with a small amount of arsenic as a grain refiner. I use pure WW for my cast rifle bullets in the Sharps and scavenged range lead in the pistol. If I want something in between I mix the two 50/50. I also add a small amount of tin to the melt to aid in "wetting" to the mold.
WW after casting respond well to heat treating and they will harden significantly over time. This is because of the arsenic in the alloy along with the antimony. A mix will harden too, just not to the same level of hardness. If you cast WW it would be a good idea to let them rest for a month, or heat treat them at 450 F for one hour prior to lubing/sizing. I've never owned a hardness tester, but it's a tool that has it's place if you are looking for something specific. Casting for pistol won't be as taxing as finding an alloy for a rifle that works well. There is a wealth of material out there and I recommend you spend some time perusing the lasc website. It will answer all of your questions. It's a great resource.
__________________
Life's too short to shoot an ugly gun..... |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,305
|
WW drops at about 12-13 BHN, quenching into ice water right out of the mold will get you 15ish which is sufficiently hard for most handguns save for the mega magnums that produce over 1400 fps.
__________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 573
|
You don't need a lead hardness tester for lead bullets shot in a 45 ACP. If you made an alloy of 1/2 WW and 1/2 lead pipe, you'd have "soft" alloy, but not too soft for most handgun bullets. Prolly run about 9-10 BHN. Remember, harder ain't necessarily better. More important is bullet size. For your 45, .451" to .453" will be ok and if you slug the barrel run bullets about .002" over groove diameter. No experience with 10mm, but I've used straight wheel weight alloy with hefty .44 Magnum loads w/o any leading.....
__________________
My Anchor is holding fast. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|