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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
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Hi all,
I have an H&R .32 S&W Premier. Nickel plate, original box, and with a rod device with some work done on one end which could be some tool used for servicing. S# 261029. I received it with a box of ammo - now missing unfortunately - from which one round had been removed. I took this as a hint that the gun might have been test fired once by a previous owner. The gun is coated overall with some sort of (factory?) grease which I suppose could be a preservative. Could have also been applied by the purchaser I guess. The gun looks good through the grease. I dared not remove the grease in case it IS a factory condition and thus might affect the value. Any guess about approximate value as described and an age that it might be? Thanks, Joe
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#2 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 3,174
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most likely a second model 2nd variation made between 1906 abd 1908.
H&R PREMIER SECOND MODEL SMALL FRAME TOP BREAK R.F. & C.F. (smokeless powder) --------------------------1905-1941 Small fame double action top break revolver with double top post barrel latch; calibers and cylinder capacity, 22 rimfire-7 rounds, 32 S&W, 5 rounds; automatic cylinder stop; standard finish Nickel with case harden hammer and barrel latch; standard barrel length 3 inches, with 2, 4, 5 and 6 inches available as optional; HAS CALIBER MARKINGS ON LEFT SIDE OF BARREL WAS MANUFACTURED FOR SMOKELESS POWDER CARTRIDGE PRESSURES. There has not been enough data gathered on serial number to try to come up with a serial number range for the different variations. First Variation, model name & caliber marked on left side of barrel, patent dates 5-14-89, 4-2-95, 4-7-96------------------1905-Only Second Variation, model name & caliber marked on left side of barrel, patent dates 4-2-95, 4-7-96-------------------------1906-1908 Third Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel, patent date 10-8-95---1909-1913 Fourth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel, no patent date, state not spelled out in address (MASS)----------------1914-1915 Fifth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel same as 4th except different font used in barrel markings--------------1914-1915 Sixth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel. State name in barrel marking spelled out (MASSACHUSETTS)-------1916-1924 Seventh Variation, new grip frame, there is no step down for the grip panels to fit into---------------1925-1942 After 1930 listed in catalogs as; PREMIER No. 30 .22 Rimfire 7 shot and No. 35.32 S&W 5 shot VALUE: 100%=$265 60%=$75 Add 10% premium for blue finish; 20% premium 4”, 5” or 6” barrel; 20% premium for 22 rimfire caliber; 10% premium for 7th variation bill
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Author: Iver Johnson's Arms & Cycle Works 1871-1993 H&R Arms Company 1871-1986 (due spring 2010) available from www.gunshowbooks.com website; iverjohnsoncollector.x10hosting.com |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the info. Since it has a covering of some sort of protective grease on it, might this be a factory condition, or should I strip it? I was afraid to devalue it if it was factory grease.
Thanks, Joe |
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#4 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 2,980
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JOE,
Not knowing how thick the "grease" coating is, I offer the following. I've had the good fortune to acquire a bunch of NIB H&R handguns, including one made before 1890 in original wax paper wrap and most recently one made in May of 1944. NONE of them had a thick coating of "grease". Most have shown some light oil coating/surface treatment - but that stuff could be wiped off with a clean cloth with little effort. I'd be willing to bet that the "coating" on yours is after market applied by a previous owner. As a collector of H&R firearms, I encourage you to clean the grease off of the piece then apply a surface protectant to inhibit corrosion of the Nickel plating. I use a light gun oil (I use BreakFree CLP), allow it to soak in for a day or two, then wipe dry and apply a liberal coating of spray Silicone - allow that to dry, then buff with a clean, flannel cloth. You will like the results. If the Nickel plating (or blueing on other pieces) appears to be a bit tarnished or has some evidence of surface corrosion, lightly clean the corrosion using a mild paste cleaner (I use FLITZ or METAL GLO) before applying the oil and silicone. Pictures?????
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Jim Hauff ~ H&R Collector In Memory of Bill Goforth and Jim Ritchie Last edited by Jim Hauff; 10-27-2010 at 01:30 PM.. |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
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Thanks very much Jim. Your input is very informative and is just what I was looking for. I will follow your recommendations.
This gun will be for sale sometime soon. Next I will be looking for best way to sell. Any advance info on that would be appreciated from you or anyone else as well. Best, Joe |
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#6 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 2,980
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Joe,
You're welcome and thanks for thanking. I've found that posting on on-line auction site is the best way to market and gain best return.
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Jim Hauff ~ H&R Collector In Memory of Bill Goforth and Jim Ritchie |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
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#8 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 2,980
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e-mail sent
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Jim Hauff ~ H&R Collector In Memory of Bill Goforth and Jim Ritchie |
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