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Old 10-08-2009, 12:56 PM   #1
Chazz
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Default plain brass or plated?

I know there must be an advantage to nickle plating, but what is it? If I buy 1000 cases, is the plating worth the extra cost?

This is one of about 4000 questions I'm sure I'll have, as I'm just getting started.

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Old 10-08-2009, 01:12 PM   #2
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Get brass, it's a softer metal.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:36 PM   #3
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Welcome!

Nickle plated brass is just a little harder then normal brass. And some will say it will feed into your weapon just a tad better than plain brass. Plus it looks prettier when you have it loaded with some mean looking bullets.

First thing you should do is get yourself a couple of reloading manuals. You need to be able to read and FOLLOW the instructions inside. Otherwise you may end up hurting yourself or someone around you. I make it sound scary, but it really isnt along as you follow the instructions inside the manuals.

The latest editions of the Lyman, Speer are a good place to start. You may also want to consider getting "Modern Reloading, 2nd edition" as well. Inside all these books is a wealth of information.

If you are trying to save money and are on a tight budget then the Lee presses, dies, and tools cant be beat. There will be others to tell you Lee is no good and there will be some like myself that will tell you the exact opposite. There are many different press and die manufactures out there.

Here is a list of websites that I know of that offer presses, dies, etc..:
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Brow...=9315***731***
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...20%4F%4E%4C%59
http://www.natchezss.com/category.cf...475&catLevel=2
There are 3 main categories of presses out there. Single Stage. Turret Press. And Progressive Press.

Once you have a couple manuals and have read them you will learn there is just a few basic, but important steps to reloading. Any questions you have, just post here and there are a bunch of knowledgeable reloaders here who are eager to answer your questions.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:57 PM   #4
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

I was on the nickle kick for a while, my local range had buckets of 9mm seperated from brass and it was always available so I thought I really had something going, well it turns out the wiser reloaders knew something I didn't........two to three loads later the necks split. It sure does look nice and if its given to you by all means load it! Just take very good notes on how many times you do, I promise you will see splitting happen as I did. On the other hand if you are paying more for nickle I'd say avoid it someones trying to get over on you.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:58 PM   #5
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Nickel plated is shinier. If your gun ejects it in the grass it is easier to find. If you carry it in a leather cartridge belt it does not turn green. If you load it with black powder it does not corrode as fast. It is slightly slipperier, so if your chambers are dirty it loads easier.

Brass is not as shiny. It is easier to lose in grass. It reacts with the acids used in tanning leather, creating verdigris. It is not as easy to load in a dirty chamber, and it corrodes quicker when exposed to black powder fouling.

All that sounds like nickel is better.

Now the downside. Brass is softer. It gives more. It expands easier in the gun and contracts easier in the die. Your cases last longer. Nickel, being a harder metal, work-hardens faster than brass does, and will crack sooner.

I've got bunches and bunches of both nickel and brass in 38 and 357. When I have a crack in the brass, it is usually a case-mouth split. When I have a crack in the nickel it is usually a longitudinal body crack.

I have nickel. I will reload nickel. But I won't buy nickel if I have a choice.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:43 PM   #6
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

If you plan on reusing your spent shells (‘brass’), brass is much more amenable than nickel plated, and is much more trustworthy for reloading. I am very leery of nickel cracking, esp when reloaded with higher pressure rounds. Nickel stays shinny longer, but the target or the weapon doesnt seem impressed.

If I pick up some nickel plated brass and it passes inspection I’ll load it, but generally just once. Plain brass lasts much longer.

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Old 10-08-2009, 05:41 PM   #7
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Another reason for using nickel plated is the shinier surface is better for doing a chamber check in low light conditions. Although not the main reason for using nickel in the majority of factory self-defense rounds, this is one advantage that can be very important in some situations.
I reload my nickel cases and don't have any drastic issues, they don't last as long and I scrap them at even the slightest sign of fatigue or after any loadings with max charges. Still worth buying IMO if you find a good price on them.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:26 PM   #8
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

+1 on nickel not lasting as long. Always inspect every case nickel or brass before reloading.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:44 PM   #9
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

I like nickel for .38 Spl. and .357 reloads. Nickel shines up nice and pretty in the tumbler.

For everything else I shoot brass.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:22 PM   #10
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

The advantage of nickel cases is that if you shoot cowboy or for any other reason store ammo in a leather ammo belt the brass will tarnish bad in a short time, the nickel won't.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:10 PM   #11
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

I have some nickel plated .480 ruger cases that I have reloaded 6 or 7 times and I have not had any problems. They seem be do as well as brass for me.? I also have some nickel .45/70 cases that I have reloaded about the same with the same results...???
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:32 PM   #12
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JLA View Post
I have some nickel plated .480 ruger cases that I have reloaded 6 or 7 times and I have not had any problems. They seem be do as well as brass for me.? I also have some nickel .45/70 cases that I have reloaded about the same with the same results...???
what kind of a sick person uses nickel plated 45/70's? ats like putting gold rims on a car... it's just wrong
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:56 PM   #13
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

I find that brass will outlast nickel two to four time longer, but it is prettier!!

I have never bought any nickel plated brass and I see a lot of it left in the "brass bucket" at the range, must be a reason.
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:13 AM   #14
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Yup, nickel plated brass usually has a shorter lifespan...especially if you use normal to heavy loads. I've got several batches of nickel .38Spcl that have gone through 7-9 loadings and are still fine...but I've also had some nickel pistol brass that didn't make it through 4 loadings before they started splitting.

Bottleneck rifle brass...this usually does have quite a bit shorter lifespan. I've got one lot of .25-06 nickel that has several 20rd batches that are on their 6th loading but I know this is about the end of the line for them.

From just the aspect of case life, stick with non-nickel. If some of the other reasons that have already been mentioned here apply to your situation, then maybe nickel would be useful to ya.
(I use nickel-plated brass for my .25-06 strictly for the ease of segregating it from my dad's .270 ammo. Long story involving .25-06 fired in a .270...)

You can also search the back posts in this forum for more discussions on the plated vs. raw brass.
http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/sear...archid=1372947
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Old 10-13-2009, 03:36 PM   #15
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Some have complained about little pieces of nickel flaking off in their dies & causing problems. I havn't noticed that problem. I use nickel plated or plain brass to denote certain bullet weights in a caliber in my hunting loads. Plated for deer loads & plain for elk loads.
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:49 PM   #16
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Well I look at it like this,if I'm buying new unfired cases which I have only done in the last 10+ years for an old 300 Sav. I buy brass cases because they just last longer than the nickel plated ones. The nickel is just more brittle and gets worked harder then the brass and usually wears out faster. I get a lot of loading out of my nickel 38/357 and 9mm cases though and if I see any free ones at the range they go home with me. I'm non discriminating when it comes to free brass.
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:20 PM   #17
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlives4christ View Post
what kind of a sick person uses nickel plated 45/70's? ats like putting gold rims on a car... it's just wrong
The type that could give a rats @$$ what color the case is, it houses a sub MOA load for a very precise rolling block rifle. Hell they could be baby turds green as long as they keep shooting like they do plus they were free.. hoo rah
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:12 AM   #18
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlives4christ View Post
what kind of a sick person uses nickel plated 45/70's? ats like putting gold rims on a car... it's just wrong
That's probably about as good a reason as any, and IMHO you are 100% correct.

On a more practical note, for those shooting semi-autos, the nickel would probably be easier to spot in grass. But I shoot mostly revolvers and have not noticed any difference in case life shooting heavy loads from a .357 using either. I pick up whatever is available, but I always separate, just as I separate the cases by brand.

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Old 10-14-2009, 01:41 PM   #19
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Default Re: plain brass or plated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpo View Post
Nickel plated is shinier. If your gun ejects it in the grass it is easier to find. If you carry it in a leather cartridge belt it does not turn green. If you load it with black powder it does not corrode as fast. It is slightly slipperier, so if your chambers are dirty it loads easier.

Brass is not as shiny. It is easier to lose in grass. It reacts with the acids used in tanning leather, creating verdigris. It is not as easy to load in a dirty chamber, and it corrodes quicker when exposed to black powder fouling.

All that sounds like nickel is better.

Now the downside. Brass is softer. It gives more. It expands easier in the gun and contracts easier in the die. Your cases last longer. Nickel, being a harder metal, work-hardens faster than brass does, and will crack sooner.

I've got bunches and bunches of both nickel and brass in 38 and 357. When I have a crack in the brass, it is usually a case-mouth split. When I have a crack in the nickel it is usually a longitudinal body crack.

I have nickel. I will reload nickel. But I won't buy nickel if I have a choice.

Great info. and good points
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