|
![]() |
|
|
TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
If you prefer to make a donation by check,
send an email to Support for the mailing address. |
|
|
#1 |
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 7
|
I know there must be an advantage to nickle plating, but what is it? If I buy 1000 cases, is the plating worth the extra cost?
This is one of about 4000 questions I'm sure I'll have, as I'm just getting started.
-->
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 51
|
Get brass, it's a softer metal.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 439
|
Welcome!
Nickle plated brass is just a little harder then normal brass. And some will say it will feed into your weapon just a tad better than plain brass. Plus it looks prettier when you have it loaded with some mean looking bullets. ![]() First thing you should do is get yourself a couple of reloading manuals. You need to be able to read and FOLLOW the instructions inside. Otherwise you may end up hurting yourself or someone around you. I make it sound scary, but it really isnt along as you follow the instructions inside the manuals. The latest editions of the Lyman, Speer are a good place to start. You may also want to consider getting "Modern Reloading, 2nd edition" as well. Inside all these books is a wealth of information. If you are trying to save money and are on a tight budget then the Lee presses, dies, and tools cant be beat. There will be others to tell you Lee is no good and there will be some like myself that will tell you the exact opposite. There are many different press and die manufactures out there. Here is a list of websites that I know of that offer presses, dies, etc..: http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Brow...=9315***731*** http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...20%4F%4E%4C%59 http://www.natchezss.com/category.cf...475&catLevel=2 There are 3 main categories of presses out there. Single Stage. Turret Press. And Progressive Press. Once you have a couple manuals and have read them you will learn there is just a few basic, but important steps to reloading. Any questions you have, just post here and there are a bunch of knowledgeable reloaders here who are eager to answer your questions.
__________________
Im not a complete idiot.... parts are missing |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,158
|
I was on the nickle kick for a while, my local range had buckets of 9mm seperated from brass and it was always available so I thought I really had something going, well it turns out the wiser reloaders knew something I didn't........two to three loads later the necks split. It sure does look nice and if its given to you by all means load it! Just take very good notes on how many times you do, I promise you will see splitting happen as I did. On the other hand if you are paying more for nickle I'd say avoid it someones trying to get over on you.
__________________
"Democracy is based on citizenship- perhaps the greatest gift the United States has given to the world- Power is vested in the people themselves, and government flows from the people" James M Henslin Last edited by 312shooter; 10-08-2009 at 02:59 PM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 8,770
|
Nickel plated is shinier. If your gun ejects it in the grass it is easier to find. If you carry it in a leather cartridge belt it does not turn green. If you load it with black powder it does not corrode as fast. It is slightly slipperier, so if your chambers are dirty it loads easier.
Brass is not as shiny. It is easier to lose in grass. It reacts with the acids used in tanning leather, creating verdigris. It is not as easy to load in a dirty chamber, and it corrodes quicker when exposed to black powder fouling. All that sounds like nickel is better. Now the downside. Brass is softer. It gives more. It expands easier in the gun and contracts easier in the die. Your cases last longer. Nickel, being a harder metal, work-hardens faster than brass does, and will crack sooner. I've got bunches and bunches of both nickel and brass in 38 and 357. When I have a crack in the brass, it is usually a case-mouth split. When I have a crack in the nickel it is usually a longitudinal body crack. I have nickel. I will reload nickel. But I won't buy nickel if I have a choice.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy, and taste good with catsup - George of Lod, Year of Our Lord 297 I always take precautions. Beware the Evil Bullet Fairies.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: S Tx near San Antonio
Posts: 102
|
If you plan on reusing your spent shells (‘brass’), brass is much more amenable than nickel plated, and is much more trustworthy for reloading. I am very leery of nickel cracking, esp when reloaded with higher pressure rounds. Nickel stays shinny longer, but the target or the weapon doesnt seem impressed.
If I pick up some nickel plated brass and it passes inspection I’ll load it, but generally just once. Plain brass lasts much longer. Miles
__________________
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it! ! ! |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SW Fort Worth
Contributor
Posts: 4,888
|
Another reason for using nickel plated is the shinier surface is better for doing a chamber check in low light conditions. Although not the main reason for using nickel in the majority of factory self-defense rounds, this is one advantage that can be very important in some situations.
I reload my nickel cases and don't have any drastic issues, they don't last as long and I scrap them at even the slightest sign of fatigue or after any loadings with max charges. Still worth buying IMO if you find a good price on them.
__________________
. What are you gonna do, talk the alien to death? -- (on Sigourney Weaver's worry about Guns in Aliens) "Safety is something that happens between your ears, not something you hold in your hands." "I carry a small gun to compensate for my huge Blue press." ![]() . |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 23
|
+1 on nickel not lasting as long. Always inspect every case nickel or brass before reloading.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 1,029
|
I like nickel for .38 Spl. and .357 reloads. Nickel shines up nice and pretty in the tumbler.
For everything else I shoot brass. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 597
|
The advantage of nickel cases is that if you shoot cowboy or for any other reason store ammo in a leather ammo belt the brass will tarnish bad in a short time, the nickel won't.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,398
|
I have some nickel plated .480 ruger cases that I have reloaded 6 or 7 times and I have not had any problems. They seem be do as well as brass for me.? I also have some nickel .45/70 cases that I have reloaded about the same with the same results...???
__________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,828
|
what kind of a sick person uses nickel plated 45/70's? ats like putting gold rims on a car... it's just wrong
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Northeast Georgia
Contributor
Posts: 6,403
|
I find that brass will outlast nickel two to four time longer, but it is prettier!!
![]() ![]() I have never bought any nickel plated brass and I see a lot of it left in the "brass bucket" at the range, must be a reason.
__________________
NRA Endowment Member GeorgiaCarry.Org Member Retired US Army Postal Worker Personally, I carry a gun because I'm too young to die and too old to take an ass whoopin'.....author unknown (but obviously brilliant)
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: ND, USA
Posts: 2,489
|
Yup, nickel plated brass usually has a shorter lifespan...especially if you use normal to heavy loads. I've got several batches of nickel .38Spcl that have gone through 7-9 loadings and are still fine...but I've also had some nickel pistol brass that didn't make it through 4 loadings before they started splitting.
Bottleneck rifle brass...this usually does have quite a bit shorter lifespan. I've got one lot of .25-06 nickel that has several 20rd batches that are on their 6th loading but I know this is about the end of the line for them. From just the aspect of case life, stick with non-nickel. If some of the other reasons that have already been mentioned here apply to your situation, then maybe nickel would be useful to ya. (I use nickel-plated brass for my .25-06 strictly for the ease of segregating it from my dad's .270 ammo. Long story involving .25-06 fired in a .270...) You can also search the back posts in this forum for more discussions on the plated vs. raw brass. http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/sear...archid=1372947 |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Contributor
Posts: 1,764
|
Some have complained about little pieces of nickel flaking off in their dies & causing problems. I havn't noticed that problem. I use nickel plated or plain brass to denote certain bullet weights in a caliber in my hunting loads. Plated for deer loads & plain for elk loads.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 182
|
Well I look at it like this,if I'm buying new unfired cases which I have only done in the last 10+ years for an old 300 Sav. I buy brass cases because they just last longer than the nickel plated ones. The nickel is just more brittle and gets worked harder then the brass and usually wears out faster. I get a lot of loading out of my nickel 38/357 and 9mm cases though and if I see any free ones at the range they go home with me. I'm non discriminating when it comes to free brass.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17 | |
|
*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Heart Of Texas
Contributor
Posts: 17,398
|
Quote:
plus they were free.. hoo rah![]()
__________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile, and 3 for proper trigger squeeze. The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill. Rifles and cartridges don't make hits -- shooters do. Fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 | |
|
V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Branson, MO
Posts: 63
|
Quote:
On a more practical note, for those shooting semi-autos, the nickel would probably be easier to spot in grass. But I shoot mostly revolvers and have not noticed any difference in case life shooting heavy loads from a .357 using either. I pick up whatever is available, but I always separate, just as I separate the cases by brand.F. Prefect |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#19 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 548
|
Quote:
Great info. and good points |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|