|
![]() |
|
|
TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
If you prefer to make a donation by check,
send an email to Support for the mailing address. |
|
|
#1 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: California
Posts: 65
|
I started a refinish on this today and dang what a pain. I used stripper on the hand guard, then neutralized it. Had to use a needle to pick out this poly craaapo piled into the checkers. It came out decent I suppose but any easy way to remove this stuff?
-->
Last edited by jyantkilr; 02-26-2012 at 10:09 PM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Contributor
Posts: 2,025
|
I use a tooth brush after letting the stripper sit for 15-20 min.
Mike |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: ND, USA
Posts: 2,454
|
Yup, A good stiff toothbrush will scrub down into the checkering to help lift the crud out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: California
Posts: 65
|
Yep yep, toothbrush isn't working. These are negative stamped impressions, guess I pick pick pick and more pick.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
|
Not super quality checkering. Did you consider simply sanding the stock down to remove it and then having decent checkering done if you want?
Jim |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: ND, USA
Posts: 2,454
|
Quote:
Maybe a nylon parts cleaning brush? they're stiffer than even a firm toothbrush...but the bristles are pretty thick too so they are harder to cram down in there to scrub. Embossed "checkering" is a PitA isn't it! I redid an old beater 870 Express a couple years ago and had the same problem. I was able to get most of the varnish out of the pattern, but I never did get all of the stain removed. It looked about like the fore-end you've got pictured when I gave up on it...but I was restaining it a similar color anyway so it turned out pretty good. What type of stripper are you using? Petroleum based (the old-school toluene/xylene/acetone stuff), or the new-fangled citrus-based ("safe" ) stripper? If you're using the citrus type, try using some of the petroleum based stuff instead. I still think it just plain works better. Most auto parts stores will have it on the shelf in the autobody section. Klean-Strip Aircraft stripper is the one I usually have around. http://www.amazon.com/GAR343-KLEAN-S...sim_sbs_auto_1 Rustoleum also has one that I know works pretty good on varnish too http://www.amazon.com/Rustoleum-Airc...sim_sbs_auto_5 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: California
Posts: 65
|
Thank you, I got them all out, needle city. Didn't want too much stripper/water, this is a cheapo checker and pretty fragile. It's a 1957 shotgun so want to leave it original as far as the stock checkering.
I had gotten it from a friend who did the old slop on the poly, drips included, it had to come off. It was some 8 yr. old stripper, water base, had airplane paint stripper but passed on that thought. |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
|
You can always get a checkering kit from Brownells and touch them up that way.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|