Shootin the Lead Out?

[steve4102]

I've been testing out lead bullets in my 10MM 1911. I found they work great, I found they are accurate and I found I have very little if any leading. All good.

My question is about switching over from lead to jacketed in the same range session. I is OK to switch from lead to jacketed without removing whatever minor lead deposits I may have left in the barrel?

What about switching from jacketed to lead? Any reason I should not do this without cleaning?

[woolleyworm]

If there is minor to no leading, then there's no problem shooting jacketed bullets after lead. It all comes down to always inspecting your firearms to ensure that they're in safe and working order.

I don't like to hear people say that they shoot a few jacketed bullets after lead, "to shoot the lead out". If there's excess lead in the barrel, it needs cleaned, shooting ANY bullets thru it can cause problems. At the point that you've got excess lead build up, you've essentially got a partial bore restriction.

No problems if you're shooting jacketed and want to shoot lead afterwards.

With any bullets, once you've shot enough to get a feel for the gun and how it's going to handle certain loads; you'll know when you should take it down, inspect and clean it. IE- if I'm shooting 45acp with 231, then I can go hundreds of rounds before I need to clean; if I'm shooting Bullseye powder, then I need to clean after every 50-100.

[gdmoody]

I shoot a mixture of lead and jacketed and plated bullets during the same shooting session. If I am just plinking/playing, I will have them mixed in the same magazine. I don't load the lead ones hot enough to leave any leading.

[myfriendis410]

I used to finish every range session in either my 1911 or my M57 with jacketed. Last year I took it upon myself to REALLY clean the barrels on both guns and noticed an even layer of lead distributed throughout the length of the barrels on both guns. It took considerable effort with a lead removing cloth to get all of it out and I saw a distinct improvement in overall accuracy. I no longer rely on this technique for all of the above reason stated above.

Similarly I have really learned about copper fouling in the long guns and found that frequent thorough cleaning of my hunting guns is a really good idea. Groups will go from 1" to 1 1/2" down to cloverleafs if I stay after the copper. Usually every 25 rounds or so for the magnums.

[The Duke]

As Wooly said...clean it out before it becomes a problem....Ive heard range-row pundits say they 'shoot a few jacketed rounds after shooting lead'...In MHO...its just gonna pack the lead down more and make it more difficult to get out later...

I believe its Shooters Choice...got a couple bottles in the shop ...that make a dandy lead cleaner...It works and works easily...Also if you shoot a lot of lead and have a considerable amount of fouling, a Lewis Lead Remover works fast and easy..Makes cleaning the forcing cone on revolvers a snap....Best thing since rice and gravy...

[Regular Joe]

Don't EVER try "shooting the lead out" with a poly barrel (Glock and H&K). This has been the cause of many kabooms. Better to load plated bullets anyway. Cost is not much more, if any, and the guns stay very much cleaner.

[steve4102]

Originally Posted by Regular Joe

Don't EVER try "shooting the lead out" with a poly barrel (Glock and H&K). This has been the cause of many kabooms. Better to load plated bullets anyway. Cost is not much more, if any, and the guns stay very much cleaner.

Where are you getting "plated" bullets for the same price as lead? The plated bullets I see available on-line are usually more $$ than jacketed.

[LDJ]

45 LC, 250 grain, .452 cast bullets at Oregon Trail are 74.25 for 500. .14 cents each.
45 LC 250 grain .452 Hornady HP XTP Jacket bullets at powder valley are 22.49 a hundred .22 cents each.
45 LC 250 grain .452 Berrys plated bullets at powder valley 40.13 for 200. .20 cents each.
I have never found anything as cheap as lead, but they may be out there. The cost is one reason why a lot of folks try to shoot lead.
LDJ

[steve4102]

Originally Posted by LDJ

45 LC, 250 grain, .452 cast bullets at Oregon Trail are 74.25 for 500. .14 cents each.
45 LC 250 grain .452 Hornady HP XTP Jacket bullets at powder valley are 22.49 a hundred .22 cents each.
45 LC 250 grain .452 Berrys plated bullets at powder valley 40.13 for 200. .20 cents each.
I have never found anything as cheap as lead, but they may be out there. The cost is one reason why a lot of folks try to shoot lead.
LDJ

You can even get quality lead bullets for much less.
Missouri Bullets.
45 L Colt for less that $50/500.

[Orin]

Its nice to keep a small bore light in the ol' range kit to check once in awhile on what's hapnin down the ol' tube. Takes out the guess work.

[LDJ]

Steve4102
Thanks for the info.
LDJ

[jim brady]

This is a GREAT thread! I used to think that shooting jacketed bullets at the end of a range session was a good idea to help clean slight traces of lead from the barrel. But - if you think about it, all you are doing is pressing the lead to the rifling grooves. So you are really gaining little, and more likely making things worse.

It seems from the posts that pop up over the last few years that cleaning your firearms is either not necessary or seldom required today. Guess I'm old-school, but I clean mine after every shooting session. Every other session or so they get the detail-strip clean, but none go back into the vault with crud in or on them.

I shoot my own cast lead bullets (pistol calibers) because I enjoy making my own, and this gives me an unlimited supply of the exact same bullets that I don't depend on anyone else for. Cast them right and keep the velocites at a sane level and there is great accuracy with little or no leading in the barrels.

[reynolds357]

Originally Posted by steve4102

I've been testing out lead bullets in my 10MM 1911. I found they work great, I found they are accurate and I found I have very little if any leading. All good.

My question is about switching over from lead to jacketed in the same range session. I is OK to switch from lead to jacketed without removing whatever minor lead deposits I may have left in the barrel?

What about switching from jacketed to lead? Any reason I should not do this without cleaning?

How are you not getting leadding in a 10mm? A 10mm, loaded like a 10mm and not a .40S&W, is a notorious barrel leadder.
When it comes to pistols, I cheat. I run the brush through the barrel a few times, run a patch with carb cleaner through it, then soak the barrel in solvent for a day or two or three or whenever I get back to it.

[steve4102]

Originally Posted by reynolds357

How are you not getting leadding in a 10mm? A 10mm, loaded like a 10mm and not a .40S&W, is a notorious barrel leadder.
When it comes to pistols, I cheat. I run the brush through the barrel a few times, run a patch with carb cleaner through it, then soak the barrel in solvent for a day or two or three or whenever I get back to it.

Duno, I am using Missouri Bullet IDP #5 180gr and IDP #2 170gr, both have a BHN of 18 and are sized to .401.
So far I have tested these bullet from "Start" to "Max" loads with Unique, #7, Silhouette, WSF and Longshot. I have two 10MM a DW CBOB and a Witness Elite Match. I've been testing these loads in the DW and everything looks good. Hopefull I will get out soon and see what happens in the Witness.

After a range session I remove the barrel, run a Chore Boy wrapped brush through the bore being careful to catch all the little particles of lead and fouling on a clean paper towel. Very little is any lead on the towel.

BTW, Unique smoke more than all the other powders. Start load of #7 is the most accurate so far and Longshot will get your attention in a hurry.

[al45lc]

"Shooting the lead out" was one 'technique' that got a lot of Glock shooters in trouble. There ain't no such thing, that's why we clean.

[Regular Joe]

I didn't say that plated bullets are the same price as cast. Please actually read the text you quote. I said "not much more". You can often find the 9mm Rainier 124 gr. plated flat point at Midway for 3,000 @ about $300, with free shipping. I think I paid more like $245. Loaded with 7.1 gr. of Blue Dot over a standard primer, they're actually cleaner than my jacketed loads, and still substantially powerful, for 9mm.

[reynolds357]

Originally Posted by Regular Joe

Don't EVER try "shooting the lead out" with a poly barrel (Glock and H&K). This has been the cause of many kabooms. Better to load plated bullets anyway. Cost is not much more, if any, and the guns stay very much cleaner.

The fact Glock is polymer has nothing to do with the fact lead screws them up.

[steve4102]

Originally Posted by Regular Joe

I didn't say that plated bullets are the same price as cast. Please actually read the text you quote. I said "not much more". You can often find the 9mm Rainier 124 gr. plated flat point at Midway for 3,000 @ about $300, with free shipping. I think I paid more like $245. Loaded with 7.1 gr. of Blue Dot over a standard primer, they're actually cleaner than my jacketed loads, and still substantially powerful, for 9mm.

You said "Not much more, if any"

You can often find the 9mm Rainier 124 gr. plated flat point at Midway for 3,000 @ about $300, with free shipping.

OK. 3000 9MM plated bullets for $300. Missouri Bullets 9mm cost about $180 for 3000 lead bullets. Plus shipping of course, flat rate box for about $13. Maybe my math is off, but that's a whole lot less $$$ than your Plated.

Hell, I can buy 124gr True Jacketed bullets for $250/3000 with free shipping, that less than your best deal on plated.

[bfoosh006]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...S-LEAD-REMOVER

Years ago,this was the way to get the lead out , very fast and easy to use.

[myfriendis410]

Originally Posted by reynolds357

The fact Glock is polymer has nothing to do with the fact lead screws them up.

He means polygonal. Referring to the rifling in the barrel, not the frame.

[Texxut]

I've used the Lewis Lead Remover for years, works great.

[cranky cj]

Lets start at the beginning. I just started shooting lead and don't really know what I'm looking at trying to identify lead in the barrell. What am I looking for? and, does a good brush and hopps take care of it?