Recieved my dillon 550 tonight- 380\357 sig question

[extremepyro]

I've never reloaded before, so bare with me, being the 380 and 357 sig is .355 do they use the same bullets.

A gunstore owner sold me 9mm 88grain speers an said they would work in the wifes 380 sig (is that true)

Cant wait to start using this thing.

[312shooter]

What manuals do you have? They should clearify the bullet weights and diameters for your rounds, I hope you have read at least one manual before trying the reloading process especially the progressive route,the dillon 550's a beauty....... good luck!

[glocknut]

New Dillon Press?
Pictures, Please!

mike
gn

PS
Welcome to the forum!!!!!!!!!

[extremepyro]

So far I've looked up a pile of information on loads data. Haven't bought any manuals yet, theres sooo many to choose from.
Calibers I bought dies for so far:
380 auto, 40sw, 357 SIG, 204 Rugar
next will be 6.5x55 swedish

[extremepyro]

Thanks glocknut, soon as I get the thing mounted I'll take a picture. Things I've read so far about glocks(mines a 23), you should keep the preasure down and watch for case bulges.

I think i'll give it a name (smurf )

[Bindernut]

Congrats on the new blue beast! And welcome to the forum too.

312shooter gave you the best advice. Buy at least a couple reloading manuals and read through those sections up front on the basics of reloading. Then go on to the data specific to the calibers you're going to be loading.

Those 88gr Speers will work fine in .380 but I suspect you'll have a hard time finding data on loading that weight in the .357Sig. Yes, both rounds use .355 diameter bullets but the .357Sig (like the 9mmx19) is typically loaded with heavier bullets like 115gr or 124gr.

For your .380...
I have had really good results with WW231 powder (HP38 is the same powder, just in a different can).

For any bottlenecked rifle cartridges like the .204 and the 6.5Swede you're planning to reload, I would also recommend sticking with spherical powders...or some of the new "short-cut" extruded powders that have shorter grains than the traditional extruded powders.
The 6.5x55 won't be as bad about this but that .204 will be a challenge to get the powder into the case in your progressive press if you use extruded powders...it's an awful small hole for the powder to drop through and the powder granules might have a tendency to bridge up in the measure and not make it into the case. This could make a "squib" load that might not drive the bullet out of the barrel.

[LDBennett]

I second using ball or short cut powders in the Dillon RL550B.

For my Dillon I find any of my 30 some cartridges that I reload for will usually work with one of the following Hodgdon ball or short cut powders:

HP38 (exactly the same powder as Winchester 231 since Hodgdon gets the powder from Winchester which they now distribute)

H110 for Magnum pistol cartridges (I believe it to be the same powder as Winchester 296 since Hodgdon now distributes Winchester powders)

H335 for the smaller cartridges like 223 but also works well up to the 30-06 class too

H380 for the 243 in particular but works for most medium sized cartridges around the 308 size but including the 30-06

H414 for the larger cartridges starting at 30-06

H4831SC (short cut stick powder) for large to Magnum cartridges

H4227 or it IMR equivalent 4227 for Magnum pistol, and 22 Hornet



Any of the Accurate arms #2, #7, #9 also are good pistol powders. Any Winchester ball powders do well too.

Stick to this list and the Dillon powder measure does an excellent job. Avoid the long stick powders by IMR and others. By using only the core list above you greatly reduce your logistics problems and powder storage problems (fewer powders on hand and you can buy larger quantities for a price savings). Any one of these powders is likely to give you the best your gun can give for accuracy. It does on my many guns.

Welcome to the Dillon world. You will not be sorry. Do read the reloading manuals, the Dillon instructions, and start out using the press as a single then a turret press before you attempt to go full progressive, at least until you get the hang of the rhythm you need to develop to avoid screw-ups. Once you go full progressive you will be amazed at the speed and quality of the ammo you produce. Dillon is good stuff.

Do ask questions AFTER you have educated yourself. We love to help informed people but no question is dumb if you have tried to understand but can't.

LDBennett

[gdmoody]

All very very good advice, especially about getting the manuals. Get them and READ them.

[extremepyro]

THANKS soooo much to all of you. Its comforting to know theres help out there. This reminds me of when I started my hobby building fireworks shells getting help on the forums. Here I am now with a type 20 high explosives manufacturing license with the capabilaties of making fireworks better than comercial grade. Moral of the story---you cant imagine how your helping people can effect the way the world goes round. Like firework forums, your probably saving someones fingers or even life.
Whats your thoughts of the loadbooks USA brand manuals?

[extremepyro]

Doggoneit---I bought 1lb each of universal (for pistols) and IMR4895 (204) last week. Might be able to exchange them.

[woolleyworm]

Loadbooks are a great source for a particular load, certainly not a waste of money, I do think that the other manuals offer more data and reloading "know-how" for the money though. I've got the Hornady, Speer and Lee manuals and I use them all. Whenever I'm working up a new load, I'll always cross reference and compare.

[woolleyworm]

Originally Posted by extremepyro

Doggoneit---I bought 1lb each of universal (for pistols) and IMR4895 (204) last week. Might be able to exchange them.

Don't worry about exchange, they're both good useful powders that you'll find a use for I'm sure...... besides, a # only last a week or two