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Old 01-27-2012, 06:28 PM   #1
dexterblack
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Default should I sweat this primer depth?

Hi

I'm trying to load for a .38-40 Whitney Kennedy. I'm using Rem. 2 1/2 large pistol primers in starline brass. I'm using an RCBS hand primer. The primers only seat to flush. The micrometer shows...flush. I'm using flat tipped round nose lead. Do I need to sweat the primer depth? (New, and newly sized brass.)

Thanks, and Regards,
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:04 PM   #2
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

That's where you want it.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:26 PM   #3
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Ideally you want them .002 to .004 below flush but as long as they are flush and not protruding they will be OK. I have had that issue with rem primers not wanting to go below flush. Same with fed 215Ms too.

The CCIs all seat below flush.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Is the handle on your priming tool closed completely and the priming ram in the fully extended postion? You should be squeezing the handle tighly to the stop/closed position for a proper seat, if you are I'll go with JLA on those Rem primers sitting a hair high.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:04 PM   #5
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Not if they are flush!
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:44 PM   #6
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

I suggest you try another shell holder in the hand primer.

I also have the RCBS hand priming tool and a couple of No. 3 shell holders for the 45acp. It shouldn't happen, but one shell holder sets the primers flush and one sets it just below flush. I noticed this when I was getting inconsistent depths and just happened to change out the shell holder.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:46 PM   #7
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Me experience is much the same, as long as they are full seated, they will be fine. While primers should be flush once fully seated, I have had some primer/brass combinations that I could not get more than .001 below flush or flush.

Do take this advice though - Only load a few until you verify proper function. You do not want to load up 500 and then find out that there's a problem.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:46 PM   #8
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claudius Valarium View Post
I suggest you try another shell holder in the hand primer.

I also have the RCBS hand priming tool and a couple of No. 3 shell holders for the 45acp. It shouldn't happen, but one shell holder sets the primers flush and one sets it just below flush. I noticed this when I was getting inconsistent depths and just happened to change out the shell holder.

Good call on checking the shell holder CV !
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What are you gonna do, talk the alien to death? -- (on Sigourney Weaver's worry about Guns in Aliens)

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Old 01-28-2012, 05:51 AM   #9
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Some who use hand primer tools say you can feel the primer anvil's feet touch the bottom of the primer pocket. I don't have a hand tool but I have felt it with my single stage press ram priming of 50 BMG cases.

And size matters. With those mammoth cases, flush seating is not enough and a guarantee of failures to fire. That's very scary when the case holds 220 grains of a very slow powder. With 50BMG cases I seat the primers about 0.020 inches below flush. In fact the dome shape of the primer cup becomes flattened by the process.

For all other regular cases, just below flush is fine. If you can feel that the primer is below flush with your finger it is just fine. High primers in semi-auto guns can lead to slam fires where the closing of the bolt smashes the primer hard enough to set the primer off long before the bolt is fully closed or at least before the shooter is ready to fire again.

You got to get it right! My Dillon RL550B progressive press has no problem doing it right for standard cartridges.

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Old 01-30-2012, 01:47 PM   #10
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Myfriend

One other quick note.

I have several thoudsand, new starline .357 brass and the primer pockets on nearly every one of them is too shallow. Just a quick check to see if your starline brass may the problem and not the primers.
I gave up on them and put them aside until I have the time or patience or both to clean them out a little.
Or sell or trade them to someone with more time and patience.

UF
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:09 PM   #11
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Quote:
Originally Posted by woolleyworm View Post
Me experience is much the same, as long as they are full seated, they will be fine. While primers should be flush once fully seated, I have had some primer/brass combinations that I could not get more than .001 below flush or flush.

Do take this advice though - Only load a few until you verify proper function. You do not want to load up 500 and then find out that there's a problem.
I had one other comment in reference to your thread title to add :

When it comes to reloading, if there's something that isn't quite right or out of "standard", SWEAT IT ! Do what you did, take the time to ask questions and figure it out.
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What are you gonna do, talk the alien to death? -- (on Sigourney Weaver's worry about Guns in Aliens)

"Safety is something that happens between your ears, not something you hold in your hands."

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Old 01-31-2012, 09:08 PM   #12
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Is there carbon in the ones that are only flush?? Carbon could hold the primers out a couple thousands.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:34 PM   #13
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Default Re: should I sweat this primer depth?

Quote:
Originally Posted by langenc View Post
Is there carbon in the ones that are only flush?? Carbon could hold the primers out a couple thousands.
He is using new brass, so I'd hope not. It doesn't hurt to check the pocket depth and make sure there's no burrs or abnormal manufacturing defect.
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What are you gonna do, talk the alien to death? -- (on Sigourney Weaver's worry about Guns in Aliens)

"Safety is something that happens between your ears, not something you hold in your hands."

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