Chainsaw Fuel Ratio Question

[garydude]

My pops has a 1980-ish Homelite Textron 18" chainsaw that hasn't been working for a while. I got it to run last night, but I don't know what the proper fuel/oil mixture should be for that saw. I've had little success on the net. One source said 32/1 another said 40/1 and yet another said 50/1.

Anyone have one of these older saws (1980's) and know what the ratio should be?

[jbrescue]

Get the universal mix oil that can go into anything and you won't have to worry about it. Homelites are probably 40 or 32:1

[GunNut89]

with quality oil, you can mix it 50:1 but i would mix it 32:1 to be on the safe side. after running it a while, pull the plug and check its condition. if its slightly oil fouled, lean it out a bit. all the stihl saws we sell at work is mixed 50:1

[jlloyd73]

I thought those guys were a 40:1.......

[Hammerslagger]

If you use top quality 2-cycle oil (that is certified for 50:1 or 100:1) you will likely be just fine at 32:1 or even 40:1.

Chainsaw engines ten to run under heavy intermittent loads and some late 1970's manufacturers specified as rich as 16:1; but my experience is that such is not necessary or good practice with top quality 2-cycle oils available today. You just waste oil and make a lot of unwanted smoke.

[agedhunter]

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...nView&Start=30
Click on the blue arrow by Homlight corp. and look for your model #
You'll find your info there.

[garydude]

Thank you all for the help. I will try the 32/1 first and see what that gets me.

Agedhunter, thank you for the link. This chainsaw isn't quite old enough to make the list that they had. I don[t know what model number it is, but it should be around the early 80's.

Here's some pics of the old workhorse. Pretty cool that there is very little plastic on it.

[papadude]

From your pictures it appears to be a Super XL saw and they ran with a very rich mixture both of mine are mixed at 16/1 from experence I know 32/1 will result in scored piston and cylinder.

[ryan42]

Originally Posted by GunNut89

with quality oil, you can mix it 50:1 but i would mix it 32:1 to be on the safe side. after running it a while, pull the plug and check its condition. if its slightly oil fouled, lean it out a bit. all the stihl saws we sell at work is mixed 50:1

GunNut is right on the money<what he just told you is a very good way to check.The only other way is to pull up the owners manual on line and check,most manufacures have info online.Not that
gunNut needed me to tell him hes right lol

[garydude]

Thanks again guys. I was guestimating the chain length and it measures 24" instead of 18". Dont know if that makes a difference.

[jjmitchell60]

That saw is like the XLs I am prettty sure or so 16:1 and even if that is not correct, it will not hurt it at all. What many do not realize is you can run 16:1, 32:1, & 40:1 in saws that take 50:1 with no damage just lots ore smoke and some plug fouling. The richer the oil mix the more lubrication the mtor does get. With that said I am pretty sure you will ind that one to be 16:1 just like the old blue and later red/orange XLs. The old XL used to be the ONLY saw to buy and all I would have however now it is Stihl for me.

[glens67]

I have my dads first out board motor, a 5 HP Wards Blue Ribbon Champion. Closest I can figure it is a 1944 or 46. On the tank is the mixture 3/4 quart of SAE 30 to a gallon of gas
I haven't run it in a while, but when I did I never got lost, could always follow the oil sheen back to the dock....

[dwdw]

Try the 20:1 and if you feel lucky go to the 32:1 these older saw have wider rings, tighter to the bore and cause more heat build up in the cylinder. Newer use narrower rings with less tension. Thats how they get away with 50:1 mix.
The universal oil packet for all 2 stokes work well in newer but won't hold good compression with older bores. New engines are lapped with a diamond lapping hone for a more perfect finish less friction.
dwdw

[garydude]

Originally Posted by dwdw

Try the 20:1 and if you feel lucky go to the 32:1 these older saw have wider rings, tighter to the bore and cause more heat build up in the cylinder. Newer use narrower rings with less tension. Thats how they get away with 50:1 mix.
The universal oil packet for all 2 stokes work well in newer but won't hold good compression with older bores. New engines are lapped with a diamond lapping hone for a more perfect finish less friction.
dwdw

This seems to be a good starting place. If it smokes me out then I can back it off a bit.

It really is an awesome saw. In the past we've run it so long and hard that when refilling the tank the gas would literally boil from the heat. Started right back up, usually one pull, finished the day.

Thanks again guys! Outstanding information from all.

[agedhunter]

Garydude
Once you click on the homelite link if you advance to next page there are many more saws listed. ( not sure if you noticed )
I get a lot of saw info there. Found this looks close to yours. not all listed there have pictures.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...a?OpenDocument

[agedhunter]

Also I was told by a saw shop that a richer oil mix makes a saw run hotter.
Not sure of that one but I run all of mine at 32/1 not 50/1
But I rebuild my own saws. all Jonnys.

[Hammerslagger]

Sixty years ago, most oil for 2 cycle engines was simply 30W non-detergent automotive motor oil. Most 2 stroke engine manufacturers recommended a 16:1 mix with gasoline.

By the mid 1960's two stroke motorcycle manufacturers (like specifically Yamaha) were recommending the use of "MS" (as in "most severe") grade automotive detergent motor oil in their direct oil injection systems; but using such often caused severe heat retaining ash deposits to accumulate on the head's combustion chamber. By the late 1960's Castrol (and other major oil makers) had developed special low residue 2 cycle oils which were superior to conventional non-detergent 4 cycle oils and allowed leaner oil ratios to be used.

The previous remark; "Also I was told by a saw shop that a richer oil mix makes a saw run hotter" really does not make sense, but may be true. Most 4 cycle air cooled engines cool themselves in part by running a relatively rich fuel-air mixture, sometimes about 6:1 in some older aircraft engines. The unburned fuel carries heat away from inside of the cylinder(s) and head(s). Thus, in a 2 stroke engine, a rich ashless oil ratio should help do the same thing. Of course, if the oil is not ashless, then too much oil could increase heat retaining head deposits.

The bottom line is: that the best oil that you can buy is often the best choice for an engine that is in good condition.

[jjmitchell60]

Below is the exact model and specs of the saw you have. The proper mix is 32:1 Hope this helps and the link is provided. Now wit it being an older saw, I would concider a slightly richer mix of say 30:1 but that is just IMHO.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...a?OpenDocument
MANUFACTURED BY: HOMELITE CORPORATION
PORT CHESTER, NEW YORK, U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: 10045C
YEAR INTRODUCED:
YEAR DISCONTINUED:
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 3.55 cu. in. (58.2 cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 1.8125 in. (46 mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.375 in. (34.9 mm)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Reed valves
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: 3.33 SAE @ 7,500 RPM
WEIGHT : 13 lbs. 14 oz. (6.3 kg) powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid
CHAIN BRAKE: none
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: Breaker point or electronic
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HS-4D, HS-142A
Walbro SDC
Zama
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-23HS for HS-4D
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HS/T for HS-4D
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Cellulose fiber element
STARTER TYPE: Homelite automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic with manual override
OPERATING RPM: 6,000, 10,000 to 10,500 no load
IGNITION TIMING: 30 degrees before TDC. Mount stator as far clockwise as it will go on breaker point systems.
BREAKER POINT SETTING: 0.015 in. (0.38 mm)
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: fixed
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion CJ6
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Caged needle roller
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 24.2 oz. (716 ml)
FUEL OIL RATIO: 32:1 with Homelite oil
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Homelite chain saw mix oil
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in.
CHAIN TYPE: Homelite38 Raker III and Oregon 72
BAR MOUNT PATTERN: 14 link
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40 cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 24 in. (61 cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: Homelite Red enamel
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:
FUEL OIL RATIO: 32:1 with Homelite oil

[GunNut89]

[garydude]

Thanks JJ

That's the ticket! Chrome lined piston sleeves? No wonder it still runs after 30 years.