polishing and protecting steel.

[sharpie443]

I'm not sure if anyone is going to know this off hand but I have a question. In a prevuse post I showed my .54 cal flintlock. i restored it last year and that involved taking off the browning. So it's not "In the white" as the black powder guys like to call it. I actually like that look a lot on this rifle but it's starting to tarnish in spots and is naturally browning. I would like to polish it again just for loos but i was wondering if anyone knew a way to prevent it from tarnishing again. It always has oil on it but that doesn't seem to stop it from discoloring. So is there a way to keep a steel rifle barrel polished and protected? I might just have to spend $50 and have it re-browned if there isn't a way.

[jack404]

you really need to blue it or brown it to prevent it coming back , these finishes especially the browning are controlled oxidizations that form in a way that hold oil to the surface at the ultra fine level and thereby inhibiting further oxidization or rust

plain steel depending on the grade will repulse most oils , you really need one that will hold to the surface and for thsi i like SBGO or ed's red they both stick like the proverbial

[dcriner]

I don't know if Jack's suggested oils will solve your "problem." But unfinished steel naturally turns black - not really a problem unless you don't like the looks. Some original muzzleloaders were built that way.

[flintlock]

There is a good wax product called Rennisance wax. Clean up the barrel, set it in the sun to warm a little and then apply according to directions. It will keep the barrel pretty much rust free. Of course using it will mean you will need to reapply the wax from time to time. As far as browning goes, Laurel Mountain makes an excellent browning solution, and so does Birchwood Casey, "Plum Brown" is what it's name is. I have used both with good results. Neither will cost you $50.

[sharpie443]

Originally Posted by flintlock

There is a good wax product called Rennisance wax. Clean up the barrel, set it in the sun to warm a little and then apply according to directions. It will keep the barrel pretty much rust free. Of course using it will mean you will need to reapply the wax from time to time. As far as browning goes, Laurel Mountain makes an excellent browning solution, and so does Birchwood Casey, "Plum Brown" is what it's name is. I have used both with good results. Neither will cost you $50.

I was going to have the guys at "The log cabin" here in Ohio do it. I don't want to do it at home just because of the smell. I get enough complaints when I make home brew beer.

[Hammerslagger]

Iron (chemical symbol Fe) is almost never found in its metallic state in nature. It and its low Carbon (C) containing alloys, called steel, readily combine with atmospheric Oxygen to form one of several Iron Oxides. Red/Brown crusty rust is the most common and undesirable form that rust can take for items that are iron based. Given enough time and oxygen (in the presence of a little water vapor, water, or saltwater) metallic iron and carbon steel will eventually turn into rust. It is projected that the RMS Titanic will be just a pile of rust in another 30 years at its current rate of rusting.

If oxygen cannot reach the surface of iron, or carbon steel, it cannot rust. If no water vapor or water is present iron or steel does not rust even in the presence of salt. {Since salt (sodium chloride) is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the air) the air in underground salt mines is very dry and the mining machinery accumulates almost no rust in such mines.}

In 1947 the "American Rifleman" "Dope Bag" reported that Bob Brownell (Brownell's current owner's (Frank) father) had developed an anti-rust product that really worked well for keeping firearms rust free. It was called by a trade name (that I will not name here) that was later sold to a well known firearms products company, that promptly added silicone oil to the formula. Today, Bob's basic original formula is again available from Brownells as "Rust Preventative #2".

"flintlock" (post #4) mentioned using wax. I cannot speak to the brand that he mentioned, but plain old Johnson's paste hardwood floor wax works well, also. You just have to remember that you have to reapply any oil or wax frequently if you actually use the gun.

See link: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...EVENTIVE-No-2-
trade-

[Charles Christensen]

As Flintlock said, Renaissance wax is highly recommended for this sort of thing. You might also look at dry-film lubes like Eezox or Weapon Shield. The basic problem here is to cut off access to the steel by oxygen and moisture and to do so without making a mess.

[sharpie443]

Thanks for the info. I'll look into a few of those options. I'd love to keep the look if i can.