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Old 07-13-2012, 08:51 PM   #26
JLA
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Default Re: Question!

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Originally Posted by oldcrustytanker View Post
Alright, thanks Moody! Yeah that was the only primers that were avaiable at Gander Mountain. I tend to get a little impatient when it comes to a new hobby! Since I have loaded a few I will go ahead and order a bulk pack of a 1000 or so. I have done a lot of research on the load data for these cal. and I believe they will work. I can't wait to try them in the a.m. Thanks for all the information and keep it coming for the first few loads I probably won't do anything without asking you guys first for I have noone around here who really reloads. Thanks again for all the info.
I use magnum primers across the board in everything and I find they provide tighter velocity spreads and lower SDs.

Both loads youre using look good to me. they arent over or under in any of my manuals by bullet weight.

They should shoot good yor you.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:53 PM   #27
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Default Re: Question!

Im gonna combine the 2 threads guys.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:25 PM   #28
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Default Re: Question!

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Im gonna combine the 2 threads guys.
Thanks, JLA; you guys do a great job keeping us straight.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:20 PM   #29
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Default Re: Question!

Welcome to the forum oldcrustytanker.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:36 PM   #30
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Default Re: Question!

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Originally Posted by JLA View Post
I use magnum primers across the board in everything and I find they provide tighter velocity spreads and lower SDs.

Both loads youre using look good to me. they arent over or under in any of my manuals by bullet weight.

They should shoot good yor you.
Very interesting info about the mag primers. If I remember right they were easier to find during the shortage also.

Welcome oldcrustytanker.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:56 AM   #31
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Default Re: Question!

Thanks guys! The .380 auto load did not work too well! I looked in the Lee Manual and it stated that the starting load for Bullseye was 3.0 grains. I had a lot of FTF with the 2.5. I'm guessing I just didn't have enough pop underneath the round! If you guys don't mind check and see if your manuals state the same. I do not want to cause any damage to my wife's SIG she would probably be a little hot. I believe I am going to stick with the 5.0 load for the .40cal it was very accurate and I only had one FTF within 250 or so rounds. That's not bad from what I hear! Also, that .380 is a very small handgun fits in the palm of your hand that's why I'm being so gentle with it! Thanks again!!!
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:57 AM   #32
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Thanks for the help JLA!! I'm still trying to learn the ropes around here my friend!
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:11 AM   #33
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Default Re: Question!

Buy a good reloading book like Lee Modern Reloading and read it. Reloading is not for those who guess. Hope you have made a better choice in equipment. Never Never use anything diffrent than furnished by reliable sources. Some being powder manufactures and equipment manufactures. Not trying to be nasty. Just don't want you to blow up a gun and maybe hurt yourself.

Welcome to the Forum
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:53 PM   #34
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Default Re: Question!

Don't forget the Range Report. We like results/answers too!
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:30 AM   #35
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Default Re: Question!

Thanks for the advice BlackCat!!! I had gotten the information for the .380 online and it had stated start with 2.5 grains of Bullseye!! It was just a tad light. Believe me I'm not going to guess on anything that involves missing fingers or loss of life!!! I did some massive research on the topic before trying anything. You just have to watch what you find on the internet sometimes. I have a Lee Manual and I will use it from now on, not the internet unless it's something discussed on this forum of course! Really though thanks for the advice I'm new to what they call reloading. Mikld the .40 S&W work great 5.0 grains of Bullseye with CCI 550 primers and 180g FMJ. I found an awesome deal online for the purchase of actual projectiles on everglades.com. They were pretty cheap and offer free shipping.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:05 AM   #36
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Default Re: Question!

A couple of other thoughts with respect to reloading for the 40 SW. My preference is to use slower burning powder than BE. Powders like WSF, Power Pistol, and Unique fill the case better (easier to spot a double-charge) and give better velocity without approaching max pressures. I do not push max velocities in the 40, rather, if I want that kind of performance, I prefer factory loads. FWIW, I have loaded thousands of rounds of brass fired from Glocks (my own) without any issues; but it is important to be aware of brass quality and be sure to visually check each powder drop.

ps, in your own backyard you can find very good FMJ prices at Precision Delta.

Last edited by PanhandlePop; 07-26-2012 at 09:06 AM..
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:14 PM   #37
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Default Re: Question!

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A couple of other thoughts with respect to reloading for the 40 SW. My preference is to use slower burning powder than BE. Powders like WSF, Power Pistol, and Unique fill the case better (easier to spot a double-charge) and give better velocity without approaching max pressures. I do not push max velocities in the 40, rather, if I want that kind of performance, I prefer factory loads. FWIW, I have loaded thousands of rounds of brass fired from Glocks (my own) without any issues; but it is important to be aware of brass quality and be sure to visually check each powder drop.

ps, in your own backyard you can find very good FMJ prices at Precision Delta.

i agree with you on the powder choices,, slower is better and more accurate .. as for the glock reloading, did u rebarrel or order a custom sizing die ? ,, as brass life is not good as it gets too much working in that glock chambers are typically at max sami specs and stretch the brass more then normal, so in resizing it gets worked too much and shortens reloading life.
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