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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#26 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,121
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The proof is in the action. Also in the history of the Ross.
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#27 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
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Hi, 45Auto,
Can you post some pictures of that action? I think we would all like to see what happens when the bolt blows out. My experiment proved to me that a 1910 can be fired with an unlocked bolt, but I used a primed case. I saw no reason to destroy the rifle when I knew what would happen. Jim |
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#28 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,121
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Hello Jim,
Here you are. The bolt will not go all the way back into the damaged action. Note the bulged out section and cracks on the left side. The back of the bolt appears to have hit something as it flew out. The barrel in this action was otherwise in good condition. I would not have wanted to be the one who fired this rifle when it failed. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#29 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sitka, Alaska
Posts: 1,942
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From the battering on both the bolt and receiver, my guess is that someone was trying to hammer the bolt closed, rather than the bolt blasting back and hitting something, or someone. Just bought a bubba'd 1905 Ross a few months ago. Got a great deal on it because the bolt had been incorrectly assembled, and while it could be inserted in the action, the bolt head kept trying to twist to the left, and jammed hard against the port side of the receiver in exactly the position the receiver bulge is located. If the owner had persisted in trying to bash it closed I'm sure he would've bulged the receiver eventually. Offered him a Mauser that did work (one of Mitchell's masterpieces) for a Ross that didn't, and that's how it ended up coming home with me. I am NOT an expert on the Ross rifle, but I stripped it down, disassembled the bolt, then reassembled things. Found that the bolt can be assembled two ways; one leaves you roughly 1/4" between the face of the bolt body and the back of the bolt head, which results in the head trying to twist, the other leaves roughly 1" between parts, and the completed assembly slides home and locks up smooth as silk. A word regarding the incorrect assembly, while the bolt can be closed by sorta manually holding the bolt head while sliding the body forward, it then locks into its recesses by just the barest margin - I'd estimate only 1/8th or so of the bolt lug surfaces being locked up. Whether it could be fired in this condition I don't know.
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#30 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,121
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Notice that the back of the action, the area which held the take-down button, is broken off. Also, the ejector was violently broken off. These things could only have been broken from the bolt flying back with grate force. They would not have been broken off from the bolt being forced forward.
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#31 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sitka, Alaska
Posts: 1,942
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Quote:
Last edited by nmckenzie; 09-30-2012 at 01:53 PM.. |
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#32 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,408
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That is certainly evidence that there was a problem with the 1905. Unfortunately, I no longer have the 1905 worked with, only a 1910, but I think I know who bought the 1905 and I will try to get it back and do some more experimenting.
Thanks for the good pictures and info. Jim |
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