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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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I have been collecting the pieces from gun shows and what little I had here at the home stead.
Here is what I have so far......
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS
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#2 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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This is the only marking on the slide.....
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#3 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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The markings on the barrel are as follows, in the picture that is the right side of the barrel. On the left are the markings of M and P. On the top are the markings of 45 AUTO 7791193 and next to this on the top is a "86".
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#4 |
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Adnanced Senior Member
Posts: n/a
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Keep us updated. It will be interesting to see how it shoots and what the final price is.
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#5 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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slide was $85
barrel was $40 included pin and link All the guts that go into the frame total was $154 I need a frame. I have looked at Essex, they look o.k.. If i could find one (frame) that is a military contract replacement ( surplus ) that would be nice. I think that is what the slide is and the barrel too. If someone could tell me if I am headed in the right direction let me know. The barrel does need some polishing. Please suggest what to do guys. Here is a picture.......
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#6 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,815
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It'sa start. When you get a frame, we need to turn that "grin" on the barrel into a great big matching "smile", so it will feed the short stuff.
Then, put the fire control parts(Hammer, sear) in a good and accurate Power Jig, and really introduce them to one another. Then, that "Exit" door, on the slide, needs to get longer and deeper. At this point, the slide needs to be mounted, fitted, and sighted to the load that shoots best, or the one you like best, whereupon, you have a GUN. 500 Rounds, down the road, we will KNOW that we got it right. Hope this helps, IM me if you need help.
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Don't start no s**t and there won't be none, Terry |
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#7 |
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*TFF Admin Staff Mediator*
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Minn-eeee-sota, ya, sure, you bet!
Posts: 9,144
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Now all you need is a good frame......and Essex is a good choice. That's what I used on mine.
DON'T attempt to polish the feed ramp area on the barrel until you get a frame. When you get the frame, attach the link pin to the barrel and frame and clamp them both into the battery position. Then, veeeeeery carefully , polish and blend them both at the same time. Take only enough metal off the barrel feed ramp to polish it.....and don't change the angle (otherwise you take support away from the bottom of the cartridge)! Then........carefully polish the feed ramp of the frame until you have a smooth continuous feed right into the chamber. If you're going to use the Dremel, use a very fine grit polish.....and work very, very slowly and carefully. Remember, you can always take more metal off......but you can't add it back on. Good Luck, & Have Fun! |
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#8 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,552
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good deal frosty ,now a frame and a bit of patience you have your personal firearm
now keep us updated ,even if you make a mistake or two ,i know i probably would make a mistake or three i would go with the essex also |
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#9 |
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*Administrator*
Join Date: Feb 2001
Contributor
Posts: 8,753
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Looks like a military slide and barrel.
I would use an Essex frame on this one also. |
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