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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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| View Poll Results: Stock Finish | |||
| Polyacrylic satin |
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1 | 8.33% |
| Oil Polyurathane Semi-Gloss |
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7 | 58.33% |
| Deft Lacquer Gloss |
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2 | 16.67% |
| Deft Lacquer in semi-gloss/ Other... |
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2 | 16.67% |
| Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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So I just finished staining my stock for my 25-06. The action has been scrubbed clean of 50 or so years of grit and grime. The barrel is all polished up with 600 gr emery cloth. Now I need to finish the stock. I have a few options... As a note this is not a hunting rifle this is a target rifle that will see range use only.
Polyacrylic in a satin finish. Oil polyurethane in semi-gloss. Deft Spray Lacquer in semi gloss or gloss.
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Last edited by cpttango30; 12-03-2012 at 08:24 PM.. |
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#2 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Indiana
Contributor
Posts: 1,333
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i redid a model remington 788 with linseed oil and finished it off with tung oil. really brought out the grain and still looks just as good after 15 years. no gloss finish though.
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#3 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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I want a durable finish that needs little to no upkeep. Linseed and tung oil are nasty and don't produce the kind of finish I am looking for.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 553
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got any before and after pics??
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#5 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SW Fort Worth
Contributor
Posts: 4,883
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I would opt for the oil based poly. Take your time with it, light coats and sanding in between each coat. 5 or 6 coats should have it looking great. ( and a week + of time
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__________________
. What are you gonna do, talk the alien to death? -- (on Sigourney Weaver's worry about Guns in Aliens) "Safety is something that happens between your ears, not something you hold in your hands." "I carry a small gun to compensate for my huge Blue press." ![]() . |
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#6 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Pensacola
Contributor
Posts: 1,257
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I used a water based lacquer from Target Coating http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/p...al-268-32.html It is very easy to apply, (cheap air brush from Harbor Freight) very durable, and easy to repair if you get it dinged up. I used the satin instead of the gloss.
I have finished two stocks with this method, and if the occasion arises, will use it again. As a matter of fact I am in the process of finishing two chess boards for Christmas presents with it. [IMG] [/IMG] |
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#7 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: rural upstate NY
Posts: 60
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Bama, nice job on that stock.
Tru-oil gets my vote. ( I guess i'm just an old school fool, but it's ok, I've been this way a long time) |
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#8 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: DAV, Deep in the Pineywoods of East Texas, just west of Shreveport, LA
Contributor
Posts: 11,246
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I've used the Polycrylic form Minwax, on several projects, and loved the results! http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...tective-finish
__________________
Y'all be safe now, ya hear!Lamentations Chapter 5: 1. Remember, O LORD, what is come upon us: consider, and behold our reproach. 2. Our inheritance is turned to strangers, our houses to aliens. 3. We are orphans and fatherless, our mothers [are] as widows. 5. Our necks [are] under persecution: we labour, [and] have no rest. 16. The crown is fallen [from] our head: woe unto us, that we have sinned! 21. Turn thou us unto thee, O LORD, and we shall be turned; renew our days as of old. |
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#9 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Contributor
Posts: 2,019
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I use Tru-Oil for the stocks I redo.
Mike |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Chaska Minn
Posts: 529
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Read an article where a guy used automotive Clearcoat as a finish
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#11 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 467
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+1 for the tru oil finish, looks good, esay to apply and most importantly it is easy to repair. If you intend to shoot a rifle you will at some point scuff the finish; tung oil and tru oil are the easiest finishes to touch up that I have found.
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#12 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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Never did like Tru oil. Just me never did like it.
I picked up some semi gloss polycrylic at Lowes last night. So far I got 3 coats with a light wet sanding in between to fill the pours of the wood. Should be done if 3 to 4 coats more. I did the polycrylic because it doesn't stink washes up with water and works. I am doing this in the house while the wife is at work so it needs to be kept on the DL (Down Low). For some reason she doesn't like me doing this in the kitchen not sure why..... |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lompoc California
Posts: 542
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One of the reasons to finish the stock is to reduce moisture changes to the wood. Fine Woodworking magazine did a test some years back where they tested a number of different finishes to see which one resisted moisture the best. In a nutshell; boiled linseed oil was the best, over marine epoxy, lacquer, poly, and conversion varnish.
Personally I think the best stock finish available is Tru-Oil. You can apply by hand, you can spray with an airbrush, you can steel wool it, you can polish it, etc. It's also infinitely repairable. Water based coatings are probably the worst for moisture prevention.
__________________
Life's too short to shoot an ugly gun..... |
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#14 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,057
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another vote for tru-oil. I took my crusty looking win 94 back to beauty with it. 6 coats so far and I may do a few more this winter
__________________
I'll go defenseless when our leaders do the same |
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#15 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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First this gun is not going to be a hunting gun it weighs in at 12.5# it is a bench gun. So moister control is far from my mind. It is in a safe with a golden rod and is more of a show piece than anything. That and the stock is 40+ years old at the youngest.
I have used try oil before and have never cared for it. I would be spray finishing this with lacquer if it wasn't December. That and I wanted to try something different. If I don't like it I will strip it and start over. |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 553
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Looking forward to seeing the finished product
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#17 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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Here are a few shots of a Mossberg stock I did.
Here is how it looked when I got it. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#18 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 102
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Spar urethane is the best for durability and unlike Polycrilic , it has UV inhibitors in it . Automotive clearcoat turns milky after a while and is a PITA to strip and redo . comes in Gloss and Satin too !
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#19 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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OK not liking this paint on stuff at all. I am going to strip and start from scratch.
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#20 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 2,770
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I knew that was coming.....
__________________
http://www.nranews.com/#/nranews, "ozo. you're off your rocker sir." -johnlives4christ ![]() http://www.prisonplanet.com/ -America,Bless GOD- |
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#21 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stafford, VA
Contributor
Posts: 3,071
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It looks good to a point. It gets tiny air bubbles in it and I have to sand them down. Well if I have to sand them down with 600 or 800 grit wet paper then I have to go buy rubbing compound or cutting compound.
I can fire up the heater and spray the darn thing in half the time and end up with a much better looking stock. |
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