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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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Total cost was $429
Slide $85 (mil surplus colt contract) at a gunshow Barrel $40 (mil surplus chrome lined) at a gunshow Frame (Essex Stainless) $150 All the inner parts $154 (mil surplus) at a gunhshow I have never done this before. I enjoyed every minute of it. I had to shorten the verical distance on the grip safety because the hammer was catching on the halfcock. Problem solved. I had to deepen the slot in the slide for the disconnector to work. All of this was easier than I thought it would be. I throated the barrel and polished the feed ramp on the frame. This pistol was born on February 1, 2004. The first few rounds fired were dented on the side. The last round did not go into full battery.I changed to a Wilson Combat 8 rnd magazine and the dents in the brass stopped so did the problem of not going into full battery. The action of the pistol functioned perfectly. I will have to post some pics of the targets. I was getting 2 and a half inch groups at 18 yrds.
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS
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Last edited by frosty; 02-01-2004 at 07:05 PM.. |
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#2 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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I have to admit something weird.
It seems that the one I made is more accurate than my Springfield. I mean to say I was hitting exactly where I was pointing the pistol. Is this normal as far as building your own??? Here is a picture of back end.........
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Maine, love it or get the heck out
Posts: 598
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That's really cool stuff you guys... If I had the time to gather up the parts and put it together.
Not to mention the money...though it looks like you guys are savin some serious money here! I payed about 550 for my revolver in .22. Though I do love it... Any hints for newbies? How accurately do you think that pistol will shoot with those milsurp parts, Zig? Vise or rest it and post up some targets! _z |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2
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Hi, I just had a question. Where did you pick up the essex frame at?
thanks, Ben |
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#5 |
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*Administrator*
Join Date: Feb 2001
Contributor
Posts: 8,745
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Way to go Frosty !
My first parts gun I built years ago was a work in progress. Changing this and that until I had reached the desired accuracy. What's next ? Fitting a match barrel bushing ? |
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#6 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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First to Benbpi,
Hello and welcome to the TFF. We are always willing to help and offer information. You will find that the members are very friendly and very helpful. Remember post alot and you will get alot of your questoins answered. If it can't be done then do a search in the forum that you are interested in. To answer your question on the frame I had it ordered from Brownells, I have a membership at the local gun range and with the membership we get 10% off the price of our purchases of firearms and the like. The members here at the TFF recommended the Essex frames highly. They were completely right when they said you can't go wrong with the Essex frame. Shooter45, Yes, I would love to fit one. I think this pistol has some excellent possibilities. The money was not the only object of my project. I think that I could build it cheaper next time. The main idea and feeling was the sense of accomplishment that I built it myself. I used reloaded ammunition done by me. Now all I need to do is cast some of my own bullets and the sky is the limit. It was a hell of a lot of fun. Now I need to polish the frame and pick a name for my pistola. I might go so far as to have the Birth date of the gun engraved on to side of the frame. ![]()
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#7 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,552
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Way to go frosty ,feel free to name it postal {lol}
Like the grips ,and are you missing a mag release or is it just dark ? I have one if you need it |
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#8 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,494
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That really looks good!! Nice job!! Been wanting to try myself. Just spent money on a .22, so I guess I need to wait a while....
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2
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Alright, thanks Frosty. Gonna check them out right now.
thanks, Ben |
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#10 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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Gpostal,
It has the mag release. Its like you said its just dark. Opinions on the name would be o.k.. What does it look like to the rest of you, boy or a girl? Ya know, ..............Postal ain't that bad a name. Lol Lol Lol![]()
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#11 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Paint Rock Valley, Alabama
Posts: 3,147
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You did good frosty!
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chasing my Seven Year Old
Posts: 724
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Hey Frosty, way to go man! That sure looks good, Hell I may not know ya, but I'm proud of ya!
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![]() ![]() If you can't impress them with intelligence, baffle them with BS American by birth, Southern by the grace of God Do unto others before they do unto you "Most importantly, when the time comes to pull the trigger, shoot to kill." ~ Robert H. Boatman Glock 17, 19, 26 Kel Tec 3AT |
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#13 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Da' Keystone State
Posts: 270
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I'm imprressed. Is the frame the only part that has to go through an FFL?
As soon as the honeymoon is over on my few month old 01091 Colt 45, I want to take it COMPLETELY apart and figure out how it works before trying to make one from parts. A) Is this a bad idea? B) Should I just go for the parts gun first time out? C) Should I buy a P.O.S. 1911 and experiment on that instead of my new Colt?
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www.fiftycal.org http://www.ccrkba.org/ |
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#14 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 8,897
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Way to go Frosty! Nice lookin piece!
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#15 |
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*TFF Admin Staff Mediator*
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Minn-eeee-sota, ya, sure, you bet!
Posts: 9,144
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Woodman.....yes, the frame is the only part that needs an FFL.
A good disassembly site: http://usgi1911.tripod.com/disassembly/ No reason you shouldn't build your own gun. Actually, it's pretty easy. Here's a good site for tuning a 1911......or building a new one: http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/fluffandbuff.htm |
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#16 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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First to Inplanotx,
Thank you, It was fun and very educational. I now have something worth more than gold............wisdom. Thank you for all your time and advice I will need more in the future. God Bless. Patrick To Woodman, Xracer is right in every aspect. Most of the members you see on this forum and that posted to this thread helped me in advice and their guidance to build it. Only one problem.....................................................I want to build another one. I took my Springfield and took it apart 3 times before I was comfortable with the idea of assembling my own. I would recomend this to anyone. The frame is the only hang up, you do have to have an FFL order one for you. I chose the Essex strictly on the advice and high praise from the members here at the TFF. The fit and finish was excellent. Stainless Steel from Essex will come with a unpolished look. It polishes easily if you want to. Remember though, stainless steel is much harder than a traditional blued frame. Polishing will take some time to reach the desired finish. Mine is just a hair over a satin look. I love it. ![]()
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#17 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Da' Keystone State
Posts: 270
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Thanks, Frosty. I see your "problem" as an opportunity. Go ahead and build another. And another.
I've been wanting a knock-around .45, something I don't have to worry about scratching (re-sale value). I'd probably go with stainless for the corrosion resistance. xracer emailed me a stack of sites, so I'll start my reading, and start looking for a frame.
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www.fiftycal.org http://www.ccrkba.org/ |
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#18 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
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Woodman,
Excellent choice to build one. I built mine for the "knock around" as you say and to compile more knowledge on the 1911. You will need some tools to help you in the assembly. Remember the weapon must function flawlessly in order for it to be considered for full use. Even if it is a knock around it must above all pass all the safety tests, only then is it a true 1911. Tools 1. small needle file set 2. sand paper in grits ranging from 220, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 (the sand paper will polish burs and will smooth the action for all parts that touch metal to metal.) 3. Dremel tool with aluminum oxide tips and polishing disks (you will need this, 3 days into my project I had to get one, wal-mart 24.95) 4. Oil Hoppes #9 ( to help when you try the fit of parts ex. slide to frame) 5. Small hammer (for setting pins and ie. hammer and barrel link) 6.Clean rags 7.protective eye glasses (dremel) 8.hair dryer to dry parts ( I washed all my parts {blued included} in hot water and dishwashing soap to remove all metal filings and oily residue. It worked perfect and helped speed my project along. Everything will have to be recoated with oil anyway before final assembly) 9. Above all else go slow and take your time. Enjoy what you are doing it is a project of character and immense satisfaction. 10. It is easier to take metal off than to put it back on again. If I have forgotten anything I hope that one of the other more experienced members will post it. Next project might be an Officer 1911, or maybe another classic full size 1911. Patrick ![]()
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BEER POCKET BOOK ASSOCIATION OF TEXAS |
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#19 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Da' Keystone State
Posts: 270
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I'm a plumber, and a jeweler. I was plumbing a job for a jeweler, and admired a "cuff" braclet. $2000. No way, but I've made a dozen now, and even sold a couple.
My dilemma. I want the Para Companion Carry-Option (with a sighting trench instead of those raised sights). This model is not CA legal. I am inclined to build a 3.5" barrel Officer-sized frame 1911 first time around. I'm collecting info from this site and another (I'm sure members go to both under the same or different user names). Here's what I want, sans sights: http://www.paraord.com/products/CC745SNphoto.jpg
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www.fiftycal.org http://www.ccrkba.org/ |
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#20 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Da' Keystone State
Posts: 270
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P.S. My definition of a "knock around '45" is one you can set on the diamond-plate tool box and not worry about scratching. One you are not trying to keep in LNIB shape for re-sale value.
I still have not gotten over this, but with your help, maybe I can just let go, and see a scratch as a remembrance of another fun-filled afternoon target-shooting in the forest.
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