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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#51 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
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I inherited from my Grandfather a nickel-plated hammerless top break Iver Johnson .32 with a 3 inch barrel. I have been searching a lot on line for information about this particular gun. The markings on the top of the barrel rib are as follows:
IVER JOHNSON'S ARMS & CYCLE WORKS FITCHBURG. MASS.U.S.A. PAT'D.APR.6.86.FEB.15.87.MAY10.87.MAR.13.88.AUG.25.96 PAT'S PENDING I also removed the grip and found the serial number to be: B 98962 It is also free wheeling and has a leaf spring. Am I correct that it is the Second Model made between 1897 and 1899, and therefore is designed for black powder? Does anyone have any more specific information? I would greatly appreciate any more information. Thank you. |
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#52 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
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Here is a picture.
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#53 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Welcome to the forum.
The second model small frame hammerless was made 1897-1908, and your B98962 was made in 1902, for black powder .32 S&W ammo. |
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#54 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
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From other sources I have seen, the variation with the MAR.13.88 patent date have a D prefix on the serial number. Does it make sense for this piece to have that patent date and a B prefix?
Thank you very much for your help. |
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#55 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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? - The D prefix was used on the .38 hammerless, but your post lists it as a .32
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#56 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
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Ok, I also have a nickled, looks more like chrome pistol. The markings on the bottom of the handle are as follows...."Pat. June 16, 96. Aug 25, 96 Pat's Pending"
Also I have removed the grip and found the Serial Number B25834. It is Hammerless with the safety in the trigger, 5-shot. My main questions are date of manufacture and what type of ammo, modern or black powder? Thank You. |
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#57 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Quote:
If you're certain of the B serial no. prefix, your small frame .32 was made in 1900. However, the book lists 1905-06 as years the butt was marked as you list, and the prefix those years was the letter O. Either way, it's a black powder gun. |
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#58 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Apple Valley, Ca.
Contributor
Posts: 1,485
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hrf, It looks likes it might fall under Large Frame Safety Hammerless 1906, if it's a "R" being mistaken for a "B". That would agree with the patent dates.
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#59 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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#60 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
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I have an Iver Johnson hammerless revolver serial number D 60142.
This pistol originally belonged to my grandfather Chesley Thomas Boykin (15 Aug 1890 -1 Aug 1952). Chesley passed this pistol to his son, my father, Johnell Boykin (16 August 1938-22 Oct 2011). Upon his death on 22 October 2011, my father passed the pistol to me for safe keeping within the family. Can anyone tell me the date it was made and any other information about this particular pistol. I would like as much info as I can get so that when I pass it down it's history will follow it. It is a Top Break, 5 Shot .38 (I think) S&W Caliber Revolver with a Double Top Post Barrel Latch System and Coil Hammer Spring. The Serial Number on this pistol (found under the left hand grip, under the trigger guard and, when broken open, under the barrel near the latch) is D 60142 Thanks!! |
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#61 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Quote:
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#62 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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I have an Iver Johnson Safety Automatic DA Hammerless that belonged to my Great Grandfather. I'd like to clean it and repair it. It's .32 cal. top break, five shot. Serial # looks to be H22286 on left side of grip, and under rear sight. Iver Johnson Arms, & Cycle Works Fitchburg Mass. U.S.A. on top of barrel. Pat'd Apr 6 86, Feb 15 87, May 10 87, Mar 13 88, Aug, (found bottom of grip). Needs new grips, and some internal work. I'd like to know when it was made, where can I get parts for it, and is there a repair manual out there? I'd really like to put it away in working condition. Any info on this firearm would be very helpful.
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#63 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Quote:
A few parts are available at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...spx?catid=3870 Replica grips for most of the I. J. topbreaks are listed at http://search.store.yahoo.net/yhst-1...2Fnsearch.html Unless you have a lot of patience, it would be best to have a gunsmith do the repairs. |
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#64 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the info it'll be very helpful. I'm retired now, so got plenty of time. And patience I have when it comes to working on my harley, or on my firearms. I've built a few, and repaired a couple hundred guns. This is a hobby I truely enjoy. So I'll try it myself, this is how I learn about the guns I have. It took 2 days with WD-40 to get all parts moving again, another 3 to get most of the surface rust off. Got the trigger working after a couple hours, Just takes time. Again thanks for the help, resource is allows one of the first things I do when I take on one of these jobs.
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#65 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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Sorry that should have been research.
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#66 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2
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Hello,
I have an Iver Johnson hammerless, double action revolver and could use some details about it. Serial Number B18553. (SN also on bottom of trigger guard and beneath overhang above cylinder: Number only, no "B" prefix). 5 Shot. 3.25 inch barrel. 2 lines on top of barrel: Line 1: IVER JOHNSON'S ARMS & CYCLE WORKS Line 2: FITCHBURG MASS. U.S.A. 2 Lines on bottom of grip: Line 1: JUNE16.96.AUG25.96. Line 2: T.16.04. PATS PENDING. Reading through this thread I'm guessing it is a 38S&W. Here is a pic of it. Thanks for any help. |
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#67 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Welcome to the forum.
You have a third model made in 1910 for the .32 S&W smokeless powder cartridge. It appears to be in above average shape and can be fired with current .32 S&W ammo (the short one). Do not fire it with .32 ACP rounds, which will also chamber. |
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#68 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2
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Thanks for the info hrf.
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#69 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
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In 2008 I was visiting my cousin in Joplin. She was 88 at the time. We were discussing firearms when she said she had one and promptly got up and retrieved this one. It was carefully wrapped in a silk scarf and stuffed in a nylon sock. Here story was as follows:
In the late 1800s her grandfather (my great-great uncle) had a hardware store in St. Louis. As you know, in 1904 St. Louis had the World’s Fair. During the construction period (about 6 years) and the two years of operation, this added over 20,000 day workers to the local population. When the Fair ended in 1906, there was a sudden large unemployment. As the hardware store was in downtown St. Louis and crime took an upturn, he purchased this weapon as protection for the store. When the store closed in the late 30’s, he gave the gun to her and she had it stored away ever since. I purchased the W.E Goforth book but I am still stumped. What I know is that it is a top opening, hammerless, .38 caliber that shoots .38 Short Colt ammunition very accurately. The serial number on the trigger guard is 65202 and on the frame is D 65202. What may look like scratches in the pictures is really just light reflections. It is really a clean firearm inside and out as are the grips. Had a problem early on with misfires but the gunsmith at the local range said all he had to do was move the spring from the original first spot to the second spot and that there were a couple more so I guess it is good for a couple hundred more years. Any help with actual date and model would be appreciated. I thought it might be a third model but that would be too late; although her memory could have been off a bit too? Thanks, Tom ![]() |
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#70 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Quote:
The 3rd Models started in 1909, and it is a 3rd model, made in 1916. However, it is .38 S&W caliber, not .38 Short Colt caliber: The .38 S&W round has a slightly larger case diameter than .38 Short Colt, and you may have noticed swelled cases? Last edited by hrf; 01-20-2013 at 08:20 PM.. |
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#71 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
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Quote:
I tried the S&W first but, at about 25 feet, they put slots in the target instead of holes. A wee bit hot? I switched to Colt ammunition and it does holes instead of slots. I have had no issues with cases. Remington Express 38 Short Colt 125 Grain Lead Round Nose is what I bought. |
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#72 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
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I found the listings on page 48 of the W.E Goforth book but thought I would point out a couple of variations. The book shows the addition of asterisks on the top of the Top of the Barrel before and after the Iver Johnson Arms and Cycle Works name but not before and after the Fitchburg Mass. Mine also has asterisks there. Also, the book makes a point of the patent marks on the Bottom of Butt Strap for the 1913 to 1917 Second Variation to have two patents listed. Then, for the Third Variation, 1918-1934, only the Patent Nov 17, 08. Mine only has the single patent date. Just thought I would pass those pieces of info on. Again, thanks for all the help.
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#73 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
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I have a Iver Johnson 38 S&W that was my fathers and want to know if I can use smokeless ammo. The Serial number is H59896. Can anyone tell me what year it was made and if it is safe to use modern ammo?
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#74 | |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,277
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Quote:
Serial H59896 identifies a large frame hammer third model made in 1923. If in proper operating condition it would be safe with current .38 S&W ammo (not .38 Special) |
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#75 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
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Thank you for your help! I feel much safer now!
I do have a second question. Would you know if I can put a larger grip (secondary market type) on this handgun? I have a larger hand and this grip is very small for my hand. If so, would you recommend any specific companies/sites where I might want to look along with what I would specifically be asking for with respect to the the correct type of grip? Thank you again! |
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