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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
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I'm a little excited to say the least. I just got my C&R and I've ordered a Mosin Nagant and a M95 from Aimsurplus.com they should be here on July 1st!
I can't find any information on cleaning them. As I understand it MOST of what's out there for the M95 is corrosive and cleaning after every trip to the range will help me not destroy her, but I'm trying to figure out how to do the best job I can with it so as to enjoy shooting her AND keep her in good working condition. Any suggestions!? Also, what size bore brush do I need? Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm used to handguns, rifles are new to me. Thanks very much!!!
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#2 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 13,094
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It is true that most milsurp ammo you find for the Mosin and the M95 is likely corrosive. It is not difficult to deal with, however. The acid created by the corrosive primers is quite mild and will only do damage to the rifle if you leave it uncleaned for an extended period. I always make it a rule that if I've been shooting corrosive, I clean the rifle that same day, or at the latest the following day. Now, as to how to deal with the acid, it's really very simple. Simply dissolve a tablespoon or so of baking soda in a glass of warm water. Run several patches through the rifle soaked in the baking soda mixture to neutralize the acid, then run a couple of unsoaked patches to dry out the barrel. Next, simply proceed to clean the rifle with commercially available products--Break Free or Hoppes #9 for example--as you normally would. As for the bore brush, for either rifle simply use a standard .30 brush. It works fine.
Hope this helps. ![]()
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--Pistolenschutze (Pistol Shooter) |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
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Thank you very much!! That helps a lot!! They should be here Tuesday so hopefully I'll be able to get to the range that weekend and be able to try that out!
Thank you again I really appreciate it! ![]() |
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#4 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 13,094
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Most welcome, Arooo. Oh, one other possibility. To neutralize the acid, you can also use a few patches soaked in ordinary Windex (the window cleaner stuff). Both baking soda and the ammonia in the Windex are mild bases on the Ph scale (Ph 9 and Ph 11, respectively), thus they act to neutralize the acid in the barrel, which rates about a Ph 3.
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--Pistolenschutze (Pistol Shooter) |
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#5 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Indiana
Contributor
Posts: 7,860
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Aroo, Windex works, but don't get it on the blueing anywhere, if it's the ammonia based kind (the most common.)
Actually, running just a water soaked patch down the bore will do it too, just like cleaning a blackpowder gun...it's not so much the acid that harms the bore as the salts it turns into, and the "corrosion" is simply aggressive rusting of the bore if not neuatralized. Basically the water gets the salts, then the rest of the cleaning with normal solvents and oils like Pistol said, gets everything else, and displaces the water.... The easiest thing is to pick up some WWII Bore cleaner in those little green cans....they will be dated 1943, and there still must be WAREHOUSES of them around, since they are about the few things that hasn't gone up at gun shows over the past 20 years...they STILL are around $1.00 a can at any dealer that sells Garand/03/M1 carbin/1911 GI parts, and there are usually many of them at any good show.... The stuff is milky white, and water based, and designed for cleaning after the "corrosive" ammo that everybody shot back them...and one can goes a long way. I bought 5 cans after I got my CR in 2000, and still haven't finished the first one. I liberally soak a patch with it and run it down the bore and chamber, , and then use it to wipe the bolt face, then I usually soak a brush in it and brush the bore too, then run dry patches until it is dry, then brush it with Shooters Choice or Hoppes, then patch it until as clean as I can, or as clean as I can get it in the time I want to spend , then dry patch it and then run a patch soaked in gun oil....and it's ready for the rack.Btw, you better stock up on the 8x56 ammo, that 1938 German stuff as well as the unstamped Hungarian clean and sure fire, but is going up in price quickly, the $2/10 days are long gone I'd guess. I just bought dies for mine, and plan to start loading for mine.....329 jacketed bullets are just becoming available at a decent price, and it's supposed to be a great shooter with cast lead bullets too....
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The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living. Last edited by polishshooter; 06-30-2008 at 03:16 PM.. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 13
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Here in southeastern NC corrosive ammo can lead to visible rust in the bore within hours. I'm thinking that humidity is the difference between my experience and that posted above out of CO. Stay safe and enjoy.
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#7 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,120
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http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=2531
Here is a link to a tutorial I wrote about how to take appart the lockwork of the M95 Nagant revolver. Best regards, Greg |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pearland, Tx.
Posts: 1
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If you're worried about shooting corrosive ammo, don't. I carry a bottle of Windex with me to the range and just spray it down the barrel from the chamber end when I get done. I put a piece of paper towel in the chamber afterwards to keep any that didn't run out from running elsewhere. Then I just do a normal cleaning when I get home. I've never had a problem with rust or discolored bluing. Good Luck, Tom
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#9 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Greeley, Colorado
Posts: 228
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Does anyone have an opinion on the Sweets 7.62 formula gun cleaner for the corrosive ammo? Smells like straight ammonia so I figure it should do the trick, it's what I've been using so far.
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#10 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Hesperia, CA
Posts: 5,715
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Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent says right on the bottle "Removes corrosive primer fouling and residue". This is on a bottle purchased in the last three months. That's what we have been using on our guns that we fired corrosive primmed ammo in.
Anyone know anything different? This may be a new feature for the old standby Hoppe's No. 9 in a new formulation. This would not be the first time Hoppe's has been changed without fanfare. LDBennett |
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#11 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 1,832
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My dealer says that the leftover residue from corrosive ammo will come off (for the most part) with patches of soapy water. Then finish it off with some bore oil and it should be good to go.
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Long Gun Collection: M38 Mosin-Nagant Carbine Russian 1950 SKS Winchester 1300 20Ga Western Field Single-Shot 16Ga Sears Ranger .22S-L-LR Bolt-Action Rifle Marlin 795 Semi-Auto (Brother's) Handgun Collection: Springfield Armory XD9 Service |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3
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7.62 X 54R is actually easy to find in non corrosive, just read info labels carefully. I have a nagent m-44 I love. Congrats on C & R.
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#13 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Johnstown PA
Posts: 1,558
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__________________
I'm a heck of a "obesito illegitimo"
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#14 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mobile AL.
Posts: 325
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Well, it's just cheaper to buy surplus than reload the 7.62X54R. But I find reloading cheaper for the 8X56R. And when I reload, no more corrosive primers. But my usual rule is I clean all my guns the same say I shoot them. If I was excessively anal about cleaning after firing corrosive rounds, I would bring a cleaning rod, spare patches, and a bottle of Windex for a quick scrub at the range.
Be careful about getting any ammonia smelling cleaner on your wood! |
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