Ruger Mark III

[artabr]

How about 100% clean 100% of the time, other than when a bullets down the bore. It takes maybe 30 seconds to take it apart and another 30 seconds to reassemble. It ain't that hard.

Art

[pawn]

I've reassembled 3 times now so my confidence continues to grow.

I put 500 rounds of winnchester xpert through her yesterday- pistol no likey... too many stovepipes ( at least 1 per mag). Getting maybe 1 stovepipe every other magazine with remmington golden and federal target. CCI Stingers cycle flawlessly but it would be ideal to run with non-premium bulk rounds.

I've ordered an exact edge extractor from volquartsen: https://www.volquartsen.com/category...ts/4-mkiimkiii

I've heard this modification pretty much clears up stovepipe jamming issues, anyone else gone this route?

[artabr]

My extractor broke on my MKII after about 5 years of pretty heavy use. You should not have had any problems with a new gun. I'd call Ruger and _itch. The new extractor should work. Thats what I fixed mine with. I'd still call Ruger.

Art

[pawn]

Originally Posted by artabr

My extractor broke on my MKII after about 5years of pretty heavy use. You should not have had any problems with a new gun. I'd call Ruger and _itch. The new extractor should work. Thats what I fixed my with. I'd still call Ruger.

Art

Art,

I take your point- thanks. I will give Ruger my input on this issue. I've already got the volquartsen extractor on order(its 12 bucks plus shipping)..... replacing the extractor- is that a job for my gunsmith or something you think I could handle???


Thanks again for all your help with this Art.

[artabr]

Pawn, it's not hard. I'm one of the most inept, ham handed, morons that you'll ever meet, and I changed mine.
Take a very small flat blade screwdriver (eyeglass type). Place the screwdriver between the extractor and the extractor plunger (look at the exploded view in your manual), apply pressure toward the back of the bolt. With a pair of stats or tweezers lift the extractor straight up out of the bolt. Replace it the same way. Be careful not to launch your extractor plunger, it is spring loaded. The carpet monster can and will eat this part.

The 10/22 extractor is changed the same way and is the same extractor.

Pawn, one thing I noticed on Volquartsen's site is that they say their extractors fit only their bolts. When you get the old extractor out lay the new extractor on top of the old one to see if they match up. Also check the thickness too make sure its not to thick.


Art

[pawn]

Originally Posted by artabr

Pawn, it's not hard. I'm one of the most inept, ham handed, morons that you'll ever meet, and I changed mine.
Take a very small flat blade screwdriver (eyeglass type). Place the screwdriver between the extractor and the extractor plunger (look at the exploded view in your manual), apply pressure toward the back of the bolt. With a pair of stats or tweezers lift the extractor straight up out of the bolt. Replace it the same way. Be careful not to launch your extractor plunger, it is spring loaded. The carpet monster can and will eat this part.

The 10/22 extractor is changed the same way and is the same extractor.

Pawn, one thing I noticed on Volquartsen's site is that they say their extractors fit only their bolts. When you get the old extractor out lay the new extractor on top of the old one to see if they match up. Also check the thickness to make sure its not to thick.


Art

Cheers Sir- I greatly apprecicate your comments and I sure don't want to feed the carpet monster anymore than he is due.......

I will keep you posted and thanks again.

-pawn

[pawn]

Art,

I don't have the extractor in hand yet but really appreciate your instruction. I also happened upon additonal directions on another site, one difference is that this guy is saying the extractor cannot be removed unless the firing pin stop pin has been removed 1st.

Do you agree? He goes into detail as far as complete bolt disassembly so I wasn't sure.

Thanks!!!


Advanced bolt disassembly and enhancements: Locate the firing pin stop pin (part
#71). Use a pin punch and push the stop pin out of the bolt assembly (part #1). Note: this
pin can get bent from repeated dry firing. If it is bent, it will take considerable force to
drive it out. If it is straight, it will push out very easily. If the pin is bent you can make a
new one from the shaft of a 1/8” drill bit. The ends of the pin must just below the surface
of the bolt. Recently, Ruger started shipping MK IIIs with a hollow roll pin. Spring
tension holds the pin in position. To remove, drive it out with a hammer and 1/8” punch.
The firing pin (part #14) will lift out of the bolt assembly. Note: there is a firing pin
rebound spring and support (parts #15 and 40) hidden under the firing pin. Make note of
how the parts were installed so they can be reassembled properly, then remove them.
Wedge a fine flat screwdriver between the extractor (part #11) and extractor plunger (part
#69) then push the plunger to the rear against spring tension with the screwdriver. While
holding the plunger completely to the rear, insert the round shank of a 1/8” drill bit in the
hole to secure the plunger. Lift the extractor out of the bolt with a needle nose pliers. This
will pull the drill bit out too. Be careful, the extractor plunger (part #69) can launch when
the extractor is removed. Remove the extractor plunger (part #69) and spring (part #70)
from the bolt. The bolt is now stripped and can be cleaned more thoroughly. The firing
pin channel, extractor spring hole, and extractor slot are residue build up areas. Note: the
extractor cannot be removed unless the firing pin stop pin (part #71) has been removed.

[Tom]

Disassembly of the Ruger MK IIIs takes a little practice. One thing that helps is to eliminate the mag safety. This is done by replacing the hammer and hammer bushing with a MK II hammer and bushing. Makes it just like a MK II. At the same time, you may want to consider replacing the sear with a VQ sear.

Ruger barrels tend to be a little rough. Breaking them in with copper wash HS stuff is what I do to smooth them out. A box or two of Federal bulk stuff is what I use. Then I can use the Federal Gold Medal Match (711B) that I like to use for accuracy.

[artabr]

Pawn,
He's more than likely right about removing the pin. Its been a few years since I've changed my extractor. It's not hard to remove the pin. Just make sure you have the correct size punch.
It sucks that they went to a roll pin. With the solid pin it was easily removed and you could remove and clean your firing pin and the groove that it rides in.
Thats probably why they changed it. Over time the pin got a little loser and could fall out when the bolt was removed. People were probably losing the pins and Ruger must have made a change because of it.

It's not a bad idea to remove the firing pin and clean it and the bolt groove about every 4 or 5 gun cleanings. Remember there is a small firing pin spring under the firing pin. This spring is not under a lot of tension, but be careful to make note of its correct placement. Easy as pie. No drama.

Art

[pawn]

Tom, I appreciate your comments, thank you.

Thanks Art- just wanted to double check with you. Yup, I've got the rolled pin in my bolt too. The extractor should be in today or tomorrow so I'll be taking the bolt apart soon!!!

[pawn]

Ok, that rolled firing pin stop pin was a dickens to punch out but I got it.

Changed out the extractor no problem & pulled the firing pin and spring/rebound spring to clean the recess channel. Reassembled the bolt assembly but I had the rebound spring in upside down and managed to break it while attempting to return the bolt to the receiver.

Got another rebound spring on order from Numrich. It's only $1.45 part but I need it quick as I am traveling to MN next week for vacation and was looking forward to some plinking with my dad...

I enjoyed disassembling the bolt and learning just the same

[artabr]

Pawn,
It sucks that your spring broke.
It's good to know your weapons and how to repair them.
Somethings are better left to the gunsmiths, but if you can learn by doing it yourself, why not. I enjoy tinkering. Problem is sometimes I tinkle instead of tinker.

Art

[pawn]

Thanks for all your help Art. I would prefer to learn and occasionally "tinkle" so that I may tinker the next time.

[pawn]

Does the rebound spring support sit in the channel like in the attached picture? i.e. bent side up...

[user]

Originally Posted by artabr

...apply pressure toward the back of the bolt. With a pair of stats or tweezers lift the extractor straight up out of the bolt. Replace it the same way....

You mean a roach clip?

[pawn]

Got the rebound spring in yesterday and got everything situated correctly (a 3rd hand would have been helpful but I got by with 2). Will test fire today.

[pawn]

~150 federal bulk ammo without a jam; I am pleased with the VQ extractor

[ponycar17]

Really, I've never had jamming problems with my 22/45 with any ammo choice, even the cheapest. I'm amazed that anyone does have these problems. I'm glad the extractor fixed your problem. My 22/45 is of the 1998 vintage, so it's possible that the extractor was better then....????......

[pawn]

QUOTE=ponycar17;346978]Really, I've never had jamming problems with my 22/45 with any ammo choice, even the cheapest. I'm amazed that anyone does have these problems. I'm glad the extractor fixed your problem. My 22/45 is of the 1998 vintage, so it's possible that the extractor was better then....????......[/QUOTE]

Thanks Ponycar Count your blessings

The ruger stock extractors are machine stamped. When the dies begin to wear, subtle deformaties can develop. While not universal, it's my understanding that fte's at an unacceptable frequency are not uncommon with mark series pistols.

Note: to anyone who does convert to the VQ Extractor... do not use the VQ spring supplied with the extractor. MK pistols and 10/22's use the same extractor, however, the spring VQ sends is for a 10/22 and doesn't work with a MK pistol.

[artabr]

Pawn, good to see it up and running with no problems. I've been off line for a few days. The Rebound Spring Support goes as you have shown in your photo, but I'm guessing you found your answer.

Art

[pawn]

Originally Posted by artabr

Pawn, good to see it up and running with no problems. I've been off line for a few days. The Rebound Spring Support goes as you have shown in your photo, but I'm guessing you found your answer.

Art

Thank You Art, I got it. Glad you made it ok through Gustav ok

-Mark

[Jack Ryan]

Originally Posted by 22dave

Re: Jack Ryan post #22

I think this is absolutely the best way to clean the semis. Since it only takes 10 minutes, I do it after every session which is about 200 rounds. my math is a 99% clean gun @ 100% of the time beats a 100% clean gun @ 25% of the time.

I've had week ends when company comes to shoot and brings their kids and stuff that my MarkII is being shot practically from sun up to sun down for several days. I don't know how many rounds it takes before it starts to stove pipe one or something but when it get's so anoying they come up, "this isn't working right?" It doesn't require a bit more effort to clean than it does after 50 rounds. If it goes that long then I will use the bore snake and then the procedure above. In 15 minutes it's back on the range running like it's brand new and those cheap crap thunder bolts and what ever go bang and satisfy most kids if they just see the dirt fly near what they are aiming at so I shoot thousands of those in this gun.

[artabr]

Thanks. Like Bond says to the bartender, "shaken not stirred".

Art

[pawn]

went with a VQ trigger and sear. WOW

[artabr]

Cool.
VQ makes some great pieces parts.



Art