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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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Have a beautiful Radom VIS 35 with 139 dated- no german marks. #31xx with pat Nr. 15567, Black plastic grips. Brought back from ww2 by my uncle and it shoots so good I can even hit things with it. Slight holster wear and some pitting in barrel. Original holster with good stiching and thread white. Place for 2 clips and cleaning rod. Clip # does not match gun. My question--have any of you Radom owners had a fault with the de-cocking lever? Mine works smothly and there is slight movement of the firing pin but it does not de-cock gun. What is the name of the faulty part if I can find a good gunsmith that will work on it, Have this quesstion on "ask the pro's" but got no response, Any help appreciated Brynele
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
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the lever pulls the firing pin in so the hammer cant hit it, you still have to pull the trigger to release the hammer
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#3 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 8,662
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>the lever pulls the firing pin in so the hammer cant hit it, you still have to pull the trigger to release the hammer<
That ain't the way mine works. That is a hammer drop. You push the thumb lever and the hammer falls. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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Appreciate all help with other opinions, for now I am confused. Any other ideas out there? My hammer doesn't fall but the fireing pin does move in very slightly but I am afraid not enough. I guess I will have to try it and see if it fires. Brynele
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
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Push the lever down, watch the pin retracting, push down hard - the hammer drops and hits the bar.
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
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took one apart today that dont drop the hammer, it was modified to much and you really have to crank on the lever to get it to drop. i wasnt wore it was ground down. the owner said it was done long ago because the hammer would drop and hit the firing pin causing it to fire some time. after doing some checking the firing pins on later model ones were to long, i suppose that could be the problem with yours also. with a little work i got his work perfectly
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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Thanks much for the comments. When I push the lever down hard the firing pin drops out of the way of the hammer as sjb says, BUT the gun won't fire. By easing off on the lever the hammer will fall but it seems to me the firing pin extends too far and and would create an "iffy" situation that I think I am afraid of. Shoulhn't I be?
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
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according to Robert Berger in his "The Radom Pistol" book, cavalery representative had the following criticism of the pistol after the presentation of the prototype :
" ....I have just fired several shots. my left hand is busy with the horse, I want to lower the hammer and holster the pistol but, I have only one free hand. This was solved by adding a hammer drop lever, it first moves the firing pin forward out of the way and then trips the sear which drops the hammer safely on the firing pin retaining plate. " BTW - could you post some shots of your Eagle ? - and maybe you could help me out with the following : serial number stamping on the barrel lug on the Eagles (pre war Radom) - I have seen the last three digits of the serial number stamped on the back of the lug - there is also a number stamped on the left hand side of the lug -I could not make out the digits of the number - If it is not too much - could you check if the numbers on the left side relate in any way to the serial number ? |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
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Clip markings -
Neither Polish nor German clips had serial numbers stamped on them - Polish clips had a military inspector acceptance stamp on the bottom plate - either letter G or D ( it supposed to be a first letter of the last name of the inspector ) and a number 2 below it in an oval. You should see this stamp on the left hand side of the trigger guard - I have seen some threads mentioning letter K but have not seen pictures. - German clips are either not stamped or have a number 623 (code for Steyer) or 189 |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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I would think at after months of trying one thing after the other you all will be glad to know that I have finally got it through my head as best as possible how to release the hammer on my Radon. With the help of advice from threads out there, for which I am very thankful, I must push the decocking lever down very HARD and do not have to pull the trigger. I thank you all very much!! Brynele
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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I think you all will be glad to know that, with the help of some fine threads , I have finally found out how the de-cocking lever on my Radom works. The lever is pushed down HARD and the hammer falls without my pulling the trigger. I am very thankful for your help !!! Brynele
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
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Can you tell if the clip has polish markings ? If it is a pre-war model it should have an inspector stamp - similar to the one below - it is a G over 2 in an oval -
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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Mine has the letter G with a 2 under in an oval on the clip, however on the front of the trigger guard left side there is a D with a 2 inside an oval. Brynele
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
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later models and replacment firing pins can be a bit to long, yes you should be worried. easily repairable thou.
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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Wildwillie 911--- Who would you recommend to work on my Radom firing pin in case I want to go farther with this. Anyone you can suggest--or maybe yourself. Thank you for the info... Brynele
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#16 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Carmel,Indiana
Posts: 4
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Quote:
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Carmel,Indiana
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the info, mine has a 623 but it's on the barrel lug and my mag as a 189 on the base. I have other markings that are confusing but I don't know how to load my pictures from my Folder, the memory isn't the first thing that goes either.
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
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BTW - the 189 code if for the Steyer branch in Warsaw in occupied Poland
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#19 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
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When you want to post pictures click on "Reply" and scroll to the bottom of the page until you see the "Manage attachments" button
Click on it and a new window will open allowing you to browse Window style for your pictures. Locate it / select it and then click on "Upload" button - you are allowed to post up to four pictures in one posting. Close the window and preview the post and if it looks OK submit it |
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#20 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 10
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I ahve a Polish made, Germany occupied P35. It is great. I have pumped a few thousand round through it in the range since I got it last year. Cleaned up beautifully and fired without a hitch. Until.... <cue the suspense music> I tried to get more magazines for it. The 2 parts companies I have found anything from either use the same manufacturer or have the wrong part break down. These magazines just do not fire, does anyone know where to get some reliable magazines for these?
In answer to some of the above questions, my decocker works like a charm. Easy to push down and release the hamer. But all my parts are orginal right now, so that may make a difference. Will all that were made before and during WWII you would think these would be easier to find. I did find this part break down from this company, but the magazines do not work. Radom P-35 Parts break down This is another great link: Radom VIS 35 I also bought a replica field manual for the gun off of Ebay, it has everything in it. Well worth the money. It is called: VIS The Model 35 Radom Pistol By Lapin, Terence |
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#22 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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I have a Radom Vis model 35. pat. nr 15567. Looks like an eagle stamped at the end of it.
SN: right side. K2543 Last edited by Lloyd Snyder; 01-14-2012 at 07:48 AM.. Reason: Got an error uploading foto's |
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#23 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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Radom VIS 35 SN: K2543
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#24 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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I need parts, looks like the stock is replaced and need 2 screws.
And was it made in 1943 Last edited by Lloyd Snyder; 01-14-2012 at 07:59 AM.. |
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