Others are more seasoned than I but I'll suggest .454 balls (whatever ball you use check to make sure that the cylinder shaves off a nice neat ring all around the ball when it's stuffed into the cylinder by the loading ram).
FFFg black powder is the best if you can get it (start with 25 gr and then season to taste) but Pyrodex "P" (for Pistols) or another black powder substitute will work. All of the substitutes are a bit harder to ignite than black powder but they work. All of the substitutes (that are suitable for pistols) will go bad if they get a lot of humidity (they absorb water) whereas real black powder will last pretty much forever. Some of the substitutes like 777 do not have much (or any) sulpher in them so they stink less.
Most folks would suggest that you use either a lubed wad on top of the powder between the ball and powder or put some bore butter or other lube on top of the balls to prevent cross chamber ignition and possible multiple chambers firing at the same time. In a brass framed revolver it will often destroy the pistol and of course you could get hurt. I use pre-lubbed wads available in the shops and check for a good ring shaved off the ball and I've never had a problem.
I seem to get the best service from Remington #10 caps and most guys seem to agree but if your caps aren't working try another size or brand - they're all a bit different. Before you shoot on each outting it seems to help to run a cylinder full of just caps through the gun to make sure the nipples are blasted clear of any cleaning gunk etc.
For cleaning use warm soapy water and just make sure that you brush/clean out (in a non-destructive way of course) as much of the black powder residue as possible. The problem with the residue is that it's corrosive, unlike smokeless powder residue which is much more harmless, so you need to get the guns clean. After cleaning well with soapy water (which breaks down the black powder residue really well) you need to get the water back off the gun and then get it protected with an oil film to prevent rust. I use a polymer and finish safe gun cleaning spray like the sort available from Birchwood Casey at many sporting goods stores or Wal-Mart to hose down my guns after cleaning because it displaces any leftover water. This "poly/finish" safe cleaning spray is very much like a kind of alcohol (ether etc. that is used in engine starter fluid if you know what that stuff is) so it drys clean off the gun very quickly. The short of it's that it's harmless to the gun and it displaces water and leaves the guy dry and ready for oiling down. Another way to dry the gun is to put it in the oven at a VERY low temp like 140 deg (similar to a hot summer day in the sun in other words) and bake the water off but that sort of gives me the heebie jeebies so I use the gun cleaning spray and rest easy.
Hopefully that's the basics (what to shoot it with and how to clean it)! For a bit more traffic you might try this forum on for size:
It seems to be a bit more active than this one.