i replied to a similar Fox question a month or so ago and it can be found at this thread: http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=59043
If it doesn't work for you, this is what I replied to another Fox question:
Sounds like you have the early style A grade A. H. Fox double. With SN 11963, I would estimate it to have been made around 1907 or '08 or there abouts. The early A's have very light but tasteful engraving on the receiver and none on the barrel. Just factory markings "Krupp Fluid Compressed Steel" on the right barrem and "Made by the A. h. Fox Gun Co., Phila, Pa." on the left barrel.
With 30 inch barrels, it is probably choked Full and Full. You can determine the chokes very easily on 12 gauge guns by using a US dime. A US dime will not fit all the way in the muzzle end of a full choke gun.. The dime will slide all the way into a 12 gauge modified choke.
The inlay in the stock you mentioned is likely checkering. Checkering also on the fore wend wood.
Tricky making an estimate of its value by your description but I can give you some guidance. An all original early 12 gauge Fox A grade in very good condition would be valued at around $800 to $1000. If in excellent condition with most of its original barrel blue, receiver case coloring and wood varnish could be in the $1000 to 1500 range. If excellent plus condition with just about all its original finish, could be valued up to around $1800.00. These values can be a little different in different parts of the country but are at least a guide.
If the gun has automatic ejectors, add around 10 to 20% to these values.
Many of the early A grades did not have auto ejectors.
If you are not sure if it has automatic ejectors, open the gun with the top lever and look at the extractors. That is the part that sits in the bottom portion of the barrel chambers and it lifts the shells out of the chamber as you open the gun all the way. If it is one piece, it has extractors. If it is split in the middle such that each extractor operates independent of the other, it has ejectors.
Another way to tell: With the gun empty, and be absolutely sure that it is, with the gun closed, push the Safe in the Fire positition and pull one trigger. Open the gun and if it has ejectors, the ejector on the barrel that was fired will snap out.
And another way to tell: pull the fore end off. If there are two tabs sticking up from the fore end iron, it has ejectors. If smooth and no tabs, it has extractors.
If the gun is now all original and in very good to better condition, keep it that way. Do not refinish any part of it including the wood. The prices I gave above would be for an original condition gun. Any part(s) that are refinished can devalue the gun significantly.
If you need more detailed info, feel free to send me a note: biljolliff(at symbol)aol.com. If you can, send me some pictures of the gun.
I hope this helps some. Send me a note if you have any questions.