Range report and questions

[Goneracin]

So i finally got around to shooting some more rounds through my springfield. Im now up to 300 rounds, so its not exactly broken in yet. as far as accuracy it is doing pretty well for an out of the box gun. maybe 3 inch groups at 25 feet (im a shooter with no formal pistol training, just USMC rifle and basic pistol) thats with no support and basic mil spec sights.

anyway. i collected the brass to reload and i noticed they are all dented in the same spot. it looks like (from my reading) this is due to the stock ejection port. true? im thinking of having it lowered and scalloped, $50 at the local 1911 shop with my doing my own finishing. (its just mag phosphate, and i do that at work) does that price and suggested work sound right?

the other thing im questioning is loading, i had 2 miss loads out of 175 rounds. by miss loads i mean that the gun simply didnt go fully into battery. i slight tap on the rear of the slide sent it home. is this due to a gun that isnt broken in yet? will this be helped by me polishing the feed ramp and basically trying to deburr the whole gun? or do you think its too early to tell?

thanks for any advice. looking forward to hearing your ideas

[Slabsides]

I would say 3 inch groups at 25ft is not bad. I would also say that it's you, not the weapon as its capable of tighter patterns and that will happen the more this weapon becomes a part of your arm (read: range time)

As for it not going completely into battery: Is the weapon clean? Are you using reloads? Have you tried different ammo? Some of these weapons can be funny and prefer one brand over another.

[johnlives4christ]

thats a fair price for lower and flare an ejection port. if you call springfield armory and complain that brass is coming down on your head they will do it for free, or atleast they did me.

i would say the failure to return to battery is due to lack of proper lubrication, if you've got it lubed good, then i would say the sharp edges on the barrel locking lugs and the slide lug recesses need to be slightly softened with 600 grit sandpaper and the sharp edges on the slide and frame rails done the same.

shooting it a bunch will give you the same affect as the sandpaper, but it will take longer and cost more due to ammo costs

[techoca]

Originally Posted by johnlives4christ

shooting it a bunch will give you the same affect as the sandpaper, but it will take longer and cost more due to ammo costs

Goneracin,
you don't have to shoot it to smooth the frame and slide; cock the hammer and then rack it over and over. That will accomplish the same goal without sending ammo down range.

[johnlives4christ]

Originally Posted by techoca

Goneracin,
you don't have to shoot it to smooth the frame and slide; cock the hammer and then rack it over and over. That will accomplish the same goal without sending ammo down range.

this is true, but i was taught not to drop the slide on an unloaded chamber on handguns is why i didnt say this

[Goneracin]

thanks for the advice, maybe i will start with some really fine sand paper and smooth the feed ramp, slide rails and the beveled edge of the chamber. that and some more lube.

any more tips?

also, it seems like my trigger has a slight burr or something about 1/4 way through its travel. i dont think it is just contacting the link, it feels a little more than that. any wideas where this could be coming from?

[Goneracin]

oh and by the way, i agree the grouping is definatly me. I havent spent a lot of time with pistol shooting since the Marine Corps pistol qual is very simple. but now that i have my own pistol ( a 1911 and not some little beretta M9 ) I want to improve my shooting for fun and for self defense.

I have been doing some reading and studying, i know i need practice. that will come as does the ammo.

[techoca]

Originally Posted by johnlives4christ

this is true, but i was taught not to drop the slide on an unloaded chamber on handguns is why i didnt say this

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see how there could possibly be an issue with releasing the slide on an empty chamber. Does that mean you would not cycle the gun after reassembly to check its function? Please enlighten me.

techoca

[Doc1911]

Originally Posted by techoca

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see how there could possibly be an issue with releasing the slide on an empty chamber. Does that mean you would not cycle the gun after reassembly to check its function? Please enlighten me.

techoca

Copied from the Springfield Armory 1911A1 Manual.

If slide is already in “locked back” position:

1. Point gun in safe direction.
2. Press magazine release button toremove magazine.
3. From top and rear, carefully inspectchamber to make sure it is empty.
4. Hold slide, disengage slide stop, ease slide forward.

Notice: The slide of a 1911-A1 pistol should never be released on an empty chamber; especially one which has had an action job. Releasing the slide on an empty chamber causes damage to the breech face on the barrel and undue stress on all action parts, including the hammer and the sear. This will ruin the action job performed on your pistol.

5. Carefully lower hammer as described in the HAMMER LOWERING section. (Page 22). Pistol is not empty or unloaded until the chamber is empty and the magazine removed.

SPRINGFIELD ARMORY
GENESEO IL USA
MM123456

[johnlives4christ]

Originally Posted by techoca

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see how there could possibly be an issue with releasing the slide on an empty chamber. Does that mean you would not cycle the gun after reassembly to check its function? Please enlighten me.

techoca

of course i would cycle the gun, but what i wouldnt do is lock the slide open, and then hit the slide release and let the slide run home on an empty chamber. it is bad for the locking lugs, the link, and the breech face. dont get me wrong if you did it a "few" times it wouldnt hurt the gun, but if you do it a lot it will cause undue wear on a 1911, or any full size handgun for that matter.

i dont even do it on glocks.

[johnlives4christ]

Originally Posted by Goneracin

thanks for the advice, maybe i will start with some really fine sand paper and smooth the feed ramp, slide rails and the beveled edge of the chamber. that and some more lube.

any more tips?

also, it seems like my trigger has a slight burr or something about 1/4 way through its travel. i dont think it is just contacting the link, it feels a little more than that. any wideas where this could be coming from?

bevel the edges of the chamber is a good thing. be careful on the feed ramp not to take the sharp edge off the top of the slide or the bottom of the barrel. if you have one and are able to do it without softening the edges or gouging the feed ramp the best way is to use a dremel and a felt polishing tip and some very fine polishing compound. the compound i use is actually for honing edged tools on a leather strop.

as for your trigger im not sure. if you're able to take the gun all the way down then i would do it and look for any burrs or anything that might bind.

what you might try is something called marrying the parts. basically you cock it and push on the back of the hammer with your weak hand's thumb and pull the trigger. putting undue pressure on the hammer as it falls. i wouldnt do it more than half a dozen times. if there is a slight burr on the sear/hammer engagement this should help remove it. i would do it 2 times and check the trigger, then 2 more if needed until i've done 6. if this doesnt help then i wouldnt continue as it can damage the sear and hammer and is pretty hard on everything else.

[techoca]

Originally Posted by johnlives4christ

this is true, but i was taught not to drop the slide on an unloaded chamber on handguns is why i didnt say this

Originally Posted by techoca

Goneracin,
you don't have to shoot it to smooth the frame and slide; cock the hammer and then rack it over and over. That will accomplish the same goal without sending ammo down range.

I think you guys are missing my point. I suggested cocking the hammer, then racking the slide; not releasing the slide stop. If you pull the trigger while racking the slide, then your trigger components are disengaged.

I believe the goal we wish to accomplish is to break in the gun. In my opinion this will serve to break in the locking lugs and slide rails the same as shooting the gun only less violent to the weapon. I am still not convinced but will concede that I may be wrong. I will need more persuasion.

[Shooter45]

The dented brass from your SA GI is just the nature of the beast. No big deal unless you reload the brass. That is the reason for the lowered and flaired ejection port. A lot of shooters buy the GI model to have a piece like the original. The 1911 A-1 changed that with needed upgrades. JMB saw the problem and made the correction. Now it's up to you (for more $$). Although, when asked, I always recommend the Mil Spec or Loaded Model for that reason.

Your pistol still needs some breakin rounds for the feed problem to correct itself. The pistol is designed for ball ammo and should work fine. If you are using hollowpoint ammo, the feedramp will need work. If you have never done this, remember to not change the angle of the feedramp. Better yet, take it to a good pistolsmith. I have seen frames ruined by the do it yourselfer.

Are you still using the supplied mags ?

I also agree with John on "stepping the hammer". I usually use a small screwdriver behind the cocked hammer to add pressure while pressing the trigger. That will correct the problem and make for a smoother trigger.
Keep us posted on your progress.

[Goneracin]

ok, that all sounds like good info. I need to do a little cleaning and such to the gun tomorrow anyway. I might try polishing the feed ramp and such with the felt since i dont think i can change much with a felt pad on a dremmel. I will probably try to check out the trigger tomorrow too. I have torn the gun down pretty far, but never took the trigger out. I will do it tomorrow. If i dont find anything i will try the "stepping the hammer" trick.

Yes I am still using the supplied mags, but i plan to buy at least one more mag, probably a wilson. For ammo i have only been using new winchester 230 grain ball. I plan on having the first 500 rounds be of that type. A friend of mine is hand loading the brass for me untill i learn how to do it, he is going to make me some hollow points so i can see how the gun will feed with them. (there is no point in carrying a pistol with hollow points instead of ball if it wont feed the hollow points, right?)

I also noticed today that one of the grips is loose. the screws are tight but the grip has some play in it... maybe there is something stuck under there but i dont know. i will check it out tomorrow, but if i dont see anything, is it worth me calling springfield or even sending it back to them? maybe i could send it back for all the mentioned work

thanks for all the advice, this is great info for a newbe like me. keep it comming

[johnlives4christ]

Originally Posted by techoca

I think you guys are missing my point. I suggested cocking the hammer, then racking the slide; not releasing the slide stop. If you pull the trigger while racking the slide, then your trigger components are disengaged.

I believe the goal we wish to accomplish is to break in the gun. In my opinion this will serve to break in the locking lugs and slide rails the same as shooting the gun only less violent to the weapon. I am still not convinced but will concede that I may be wrong. I will need more persuasion.

on a 1911, the trigger and sear are still engaged whenever the trigger is pulled with the slide back. the only differance is that the disconnector pushes the trigger bar down and thus it isnt engaged to the sear. if it were my gun, i wouldnt want to pull the slide back and release it because it would have the same effect as using the slide release. but i am not talking about a few times but rather hundreds to thousands. the last 1911 i had was a few years ago and i probably dropped the slide a few dozen times when i first got the gun.

[johnlives4christ]

goneracin. under your grip there is a bushing that is screwed into the frame. i would think it is probably loose in the frame. you need to be careful with that polishing tool. you dont want to round the top of the feed ramp over any on the frame. on the barrel you dont want to round it over any where it meets the frame, but where the feed ramp contacts the chamber, if there is a sharp edge you can very very lightly take the sharp edge off but make sure you dont sand into the chamber or anything like that.

~john

[Goneracin]

i just took the grips off, and i dont see anything loose. it is like the holes in the grips are too big, they dont have any play away from the gun, just front to back (as if you were looking down the sights)

[Goneracin]

ok, well the grip issue is resolved. apparently some of the screws are side specific. i started just swaping screws and now both grips are tight. this doesnt sound like something that is suposed to be, but as long as the grips are tight, i can live with it. its a carry gun afterall

[johnlives4christ]

if your grips are plastic i would suggest that they might not be perfectly formed

[Goneracin]

they are the original walnut grips. and by moving screws around from side to side, top to bottom, it eventually tightened up. so im guessing some of the screws have a slightly larger head. maybe not on purpous, but they are tight now thats all that matters