S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? - The Firearms Forum

belercous · 12-28-2009, 08:29 PM

I have a .32 S&W D/A top-break, 4th model, s/n 1064xx. The gun will work in s/a when the trigger is snapped quickly, but not when the trigger is slowly squeezed. Changeing the tension on the hammer spring doesn't help, but can make it worse (won't lock back). I've even tried adding a shim to get more tension, to no avail.
I have seen a few of these guns for sale which state that they don't work in S/A. Is this just a design flaw or is there a fix?
Thank you for your assistance in this matter.

Jim K · 12-28-2009, 10:02 PM

A better description might help, but see if this fits. You cock the hammer and it stays back. If you put light pressure on the trigger, the hammer drops, but doesn't fall all they way, catching on something. The same thing happens if you squeeze the trigger, but if you really jerk the trigger the hammer falls all the way. You might also be able to "push off" the hammer with your thumb without touching the trigger.

If that is the situation, you probably have a hammer in which the single action notch is worn or chipped out, pretty common conditions. A gun like that needs a certain amount of finger reflex to keep the trigger out of the way of the hammer strut (the part of the hammer that the trigger bears against for double action firing. When there is not enough of a pull, the hammer falls, but the strut catches on the trigger.

Unless you can find a new or good used hammer, there is no fix. You will simply have to treat it as a DAO revolver. A top notch gunsmith might be able to recut that notch and then re-harden the hammer, but few gunsmiths will touch those old guns, even ones of good quality, because the repairs would cost more in time than the gun is worth.

Jim

belercous · 12-28-2009, 10:39 PM

Yes, that is what it does. However, looking at the hammer (the rearmost notches which hold it back in S/A) it doesn't seem worn or chipped. Once the trigger releases from the hammer, it seems to go into double action mode. It is like the trigger mechanism doesn't pull away far enough (in the front of the hammer) to let it release fully. Nothing in the mechanism appears worn, all edges appear sharp.

belercous · 12-28-2009, 10:42 PM

Oh, no, I cannot push-off the hammer when cocked.

Helix_FR · 12-28-2009, 11:09 PM

could be that the let out on the DA sear is too much . If the let out is too much the DA sear will catch the top of the trigger when fired in SA mode. Only way to fix is replace the DA sear. You can always let them out but you can bring them back. Its not a easy fix and you need to have the parts exposed to see how it all works and unfortunately if you have never see the proper way of how they work its really hard to fix it right. Clearance from the DA sear let out to trigger is .009-.012 so its that close.

belercous · 12-28-2009, 11:30 PM

I looked at Numrich, but could only find a sear, not a double-action sear. This part seems to be disengaging fine. It is up front on the hammer that seems to be catching. I can't seem to see the part (or perhaps their view does not show a side view). The part that seems to catch has a small spring forcing it rearward, onto the hammer, it catches on the part which cocks the hammer in D/A, so I see what you are calling the D/A sear.
In S/A, when I hold the hammer back and pull the trigger, this part seems to move up a hair while the rear sear disengages, here is when it catches and goes into D/A mode.

belercous · 12-28-2009, 11:33 PM

I see it now, it is part #15 on Numrich's diagram. It is shown sideways and called a front sear..

belercous · 12-29-2009, 12:17 AM

In S/A I'm certain I don't have .009-.012. I don't have a set of feeler gauges in front of me, (I used to be an aircraft mechanic) and it doesn't look to be much over .002 on the front sear/hammer gap when the rear sear releases. How can I increase this gap? Should I Buy a new part (front sear) first, or can it be filed down? The hammer is case-hardened and shows no signs of wear, so I tend to belive that it is still good.
Thank you very much Helix for your insight on this matter, I have learned something, even if I have not yet attained a complete command of the mechanism, but hopefully, I will. At least enough to fix the problem. Looks like I'll have to get a set of concave punches from Brownell's to solve this problem.
Again, I appreciate your assistance Helix, and any other info you may be able to supply would be most appreciated.
And please stay tuned, I may need your help again. Probably will, actually.

Helix_FR · 12-29-2009, 09:26 AM

.009-.012 is the spec for the gap between the DA sear and the trigger cam when the hammer is down and the trigger is returned so look to that first. Try to simulate your problem and pay close attention to the DA sear and its relation to the trigger cam. (this is the top part of the trigger that makes contact with the DA sear). Im guessing by what your describing is when you pull the hammer back in SA mode and pull the trigger the hammer won't drop or if it does not very far. This is b/c the let out on the DA sear is two much or there is something buggering up the trigger and spring so the trigger is not pulling to its full rear position and the DA sear then will not clear and hits the trigger cam.

I read your first post a couple of times and also my understanding is that if you try to shoot in DA mode the hammer will drop if you pull the trigger with intent. If you do it slowly the hammer won't drop, am I correct in saying this?

You are 100% correct on not touching the hammer. The first rule in smithing a S&W revolver (besides making sure its not loaded) is never do anything to the hammer, work everything around the hammer.

Shortening the DA sear may fix your SA problem but it will cause a potential timing problem in DA mode. The hammer may drop before the cylinder is in range and locked. It can also potentially create a heavy or gritty trigger. If you buy a new DA sear then it will have to be hand fit, all of them are, and I can PM some info on doing it. Its a very slow process.

For now check the trigger function, make sure the trigger is going as far back as it can. Next slowly simulate the SA mode problem. When you cock the hammer and pull the trigger the DA sear should clear the trigger cam, I'm suspecting that its hitting it.

Alpo · 12-29-2009, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Helix_FR

could be that the let out on the DA sear is too much . If the let out is too much the DA sear will catch the top of the trigger when fired in SA mode. Only way to fix is replace the DA sear. You can always let them out but you can bring them back. Its not a easy fix and you need to have the parts exposed to see how it all works and unfortunately if you have never see the proper way of how they work its really hard to fix it right. Clearance from the DA sear let out to trigger is .009-.012 so its that close.

That sounds like mine. Fire it in single action, and the hammer drops a fraction, and then catches on the trigger. As you let the trigger go forward, it lowers the hammer. Like shooting it double action, in reverse.

Helix_FR · 12-29-2009, 10:21 AM

It could be a matter of stoning a slight bevel on the DA sear to clear the trigger. I'll send you some info too on it. The info I have is for the more modern Revolvers starting with the model 10 but the premise is the same. Obviously both you guys are very technically inclined, should be a no brainer for both of ya.

belercous · 12-29-2009, 09:17 PM

Helix: I didn't know the .009-.012 was measured with the hammer down. That way its too close for me to tell by eye, looks like its close to being in range. With a slight amount of pressure on the trigger (in D/A) the hammer just begins to move and I have a gap much larger than .009-.012.
If I pull the trigger slowly in D/A it will fire. In S/A the hammer drops, then catches and it goes into D/A. It does what Alpo's does.
It appears that the D/A sear is not fully disengaging enough when the S/A sear disengages. It seems to be hanging up the hammer. The trigger seems to have full travel, it is not hitting the trigger gaurd.
I thought I had it figured out and was going to work on it tonight, but I'm glad I checked here first. Now I'm not too sure what to do.
If I put a bevel on the D/A sear I'm afraid that it might not allow the sear to cock the hammer back. I was thinking of stoning the D/A sear so that I'd have almost no gap between it and the hammer when the hammer is at rest.

belercous · 12-29-2009, 09:44 PM

Could it be that the S/A sear is disengaging too early? I have to assume that the cause of this problem is a worn part, I don't think these guns would have done this when new.
Now that I look at it with a bright light (I still haven't taken the mechanism out of the frame) I can see that the S/A sear appears worn down in the center, but this could be to provide clearance for the hammer spring. It does seem though that the hammer is still engaging the outer most parts of the sear (where it doesn't seem worn, only the center is), so maybe that's not it either. I dunno, but it just seems that something must have changed since this gun was new and all I can think of is wear.

Helix_FR · 12-30-2009, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by belercous

It appears that the D/A sear is not fully disengaging enough when the S/A sear disengages. It seems to be hanging up the hammer.

This would be a problem with let out and a worn part can contribute to the problem. When I get home I'm going to look at the breakdown that I have on this particular model. The ones online are useless. I'll see about the SA sear. A SA sear that drops to early will also push off plus the DA sear still should not interfere.

belercous · 12-31-2009, 10:41 PM

Helix: I eagerly await your reply. Thank you for your time and assistance in this matter. I have ordered some small punches from Brownell's so that I can take this thing apart. I'm real good at that. Getting it back together and having it work is another story.

Helix_FR · 12-31-2009, 11:46 PM

I'll get you that info. I've been really out of it and bed ridden. Got pneumonia and its whipping my butt. Haven't slept in about 3 days. I don't want to pass on any bad info to you in my stuper.

Helix_FR · 01-04-2010, 06:54 PM

OK, looked though everything that I had regarding the old DA sear models. Not much on them but I want to get this bugger figured out for you. How far apart do you have it? Do you have a digital camera?

belercous · 01-05-2010, 10:29 PM

I have not taken anything apart yet but the side plate and I removed the trigger spring. I am waiting on some small punches from Brownell's to take it all the way apart.
I think one of my friends has a digital camera, I'll see if I can get some pix to show you where it hangs up and where I intend to file down.

RJay · 01-05-2010, 10:42 PM

IMHO doing gunsmithing by forum is like doing sex over the phone, it takes getting together before anything can really happen properly.

JMO

belercous · 01-07-2010, 08:31 PM

Helix; I have a photo but can't figure out how to post it. Just got my punches in. It looks like the first part to remove is the rear sear spring. It don't wanna come out all the way, only about 1/8." Started to bend my new punch. #@%&!

Helix_FR · 01-07-2010, 08:36 PM

at the bottom of the screen go to manage attachments. It will open a new window. Within that window you'll see browse buttons. Select those and find your photos and select them then hit upload. When its done close the small window then hit submit.

belercous · 01-07-2010, 08:56 PM

I may have put it on twice, or not at all. On preview post it is there. The camera is not real good on close-up shots, but you can see the forward (D/A) sear. This is in S/A cocked.
When the trigger is pulled there is a bit bigger gap but what is holding the hammer is the D/A sear, bottom about 3/16" below the hook of the sear. Just below this is a shadow but the part holding the hammer from falling. Like this it is in D/A mode, and if the trigger is pulled further the hammer will drop. It is on the bottom part of the sear which is holding the hammer that I intend to file. Providing that I can get the rear sear spring pin out. I have gotten the front trigger gaurd pin out but the gun is still now as shown.

belercous · 01-07-2010, 10:02 PM

I have both tigger gaurd pins out, the trigger pin, and the rear sear pin. The side plate is off. The mechanism does not seem to just fall right out, as I was hoping. Is my next step to take the hammer out? If so, how? It doesn't seem to want to pull right out. At least not easily, I have not tried force yet.
Should I drive out the hammer pivot stud? I'm not leaning that way, but then again, I've never had a revolver apart before.
I know this sounds only slightly less scary than a monkey doing gall-bladder surgery, but I know just enough to be dangerous. 20 years ago I used to take aircraft engines apart. I'd send out for new parts and throw the rest in a box. Then I would shake the box, vigorously. 2 months later, when all the parts were in, I'd put it back together. And the damned things would work. Every time. Never had any extra parts, like I did on cars. All I ever consulted was a torque-limit table and parts catalog. But this is new to me and I've never had any training on fixing guns, or even tried.
Any advice will be most appreciated. Any new cuss-words that might be of use are likewise appreciated, and probably will be over-used. Thanks.

Helix_FR · 01-07-2010, 10:36 PM

Don't touch the hammer boss or stud. Did you remove the main spring yet?
Just an initial reaction but it could be the photos, how clean is the action?

belercous · 01-07-2010, 10:44 PM

Have not touched hammer stud. Hammer boss? Unsure of what you mean. Main spring (hammer spring) is out. Action is fairly clean. First thing I did was spray it with Remoil to see if that would help. Obviously, it didn't.

12-28-2009, 10:02 PM	#2
Jim K Advanced Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 6,408	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? A better description might help, but see if this fits. You cock the hammer and it stays back. If you put light pressure on the trigger, the hammer drops, but doesn't fall all they way, catching on something. The same thing happens if you squeeze the trigger, but if you really jerk the trigger the hammer falls all the way. You might also be able to "push off" the hammer with your thumb without touching the trigger. If that is the situation, you probably have a hammer in which the single action notch is worn or chipped out, pretty common conditions. A gun like that needs a certain amount of finger reflex to keep the trigger out of the way of the hammer strut (the part of the hammer that the trigger bears against for double action firing. When there is not enough of a pull, the hammer falls, but the strut catches on the trigger. Unless you can find a new or good used hammer, there is no fix. You will simply have to treat it as a DAO revolver. A top notch gunsmith might be able to recut that notch and then re-harden the hammer, but few gunsmiths will touch those old guns, even ones of good quality, because the repairs would cost more in time than the gun is worth. Jim

12-28-2009, 10:39 PM	#3
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Yes, that is what it does. However, looking at the hammer (the rearmost notches which hold it back in S/A) it doesn't seem worn or chipped. Once the trigger releases from the hammer, it seems to go into double action mode. It is like the trigger mechanism doesn't pull away far enough (in the front of the hammer) to let it release fully. Nothing in the mechanism appears worn, all edges appear sharp.

12-28-2009, 10:42 PM	#4
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Oh, no, I cannot push-off the hammer when cocked.

12-28-2009, 11:09 PM	#5
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? could be that the let out on the DA sear is too much . If the let out is too much the DA sear will catch the top of the trigger when fired in SA mode. Only way to fix is replace the DA sear. You can always let them out but you can bring them back. Its not a easy fix and you need to have the parts exposed to see how it all works and unfortunately if you have never see the proper way of how they work its really hard to fix it right. Clearance from the DA sear let out to trigger is .009-.012 so its that close. Last edited by Helix_FR; 12-28-2009 at 11:10 PM..

12-28-2009, 11:30 PM	#6
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I looked at Numrich, but could only find a sear, not a double-action sear. This part seems to be disengaging fine. It is up front on the hammer that seems to be catching. I can't seem to see the part (or perhaps their view does not show a side view). The part that seems to catch has a small spring forcing it rearward, onto the hammer, it catches on the part which cocks the hammer in D/A, so I see what you are calling the D/A sear. In S/A, when I hold the hammer back and pull the trigger, this part seems to move up a hair while the rear sear disengages, here is when it catches and goes into D/A mode.

12-28-2009, 08:29 PM	#1
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I have a .32 S&W D/A top-break, 4th model, s/n 1064xx. The gun will work in s/a when the trigger is snapped quickly, but not when the trigger is slowly squeezed. Changeing the tension on the hammer spring doesn't help, but can make it worse (won't lock back). I've even tried adding a shim to get more tension, to no avail. I have seen a few of these guns for sale which state that they don't work in S/A. Is this just a design flaw or is there a fix? Thank you for your assistance in this matter. -->

12-28-2009, 11:33 PM	#7
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I see it now, it is part #15 on Numrich's diagram. It is shown sideways and called a front sear..

12-29-2009, 12:17 AM	#8
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? In S/A I'm certain I don't have .009-.012. I don't have a set of feeler gauges in front of me, (I used to be an aircraft mechanic) and it doesn't look to be much over .002 on the front sear/hammer gap when the rear sear releases. How can I increase this gap? Should I Buy a new part (front sear) first, or can it be filed down? The hammer is case-hardened and shows no signs of wear, so I tend to belive that it is still good. Thank you very much Helix for your insight on this matter, I have learned something, even if I have not yet attained a complete command of the mechanism, but hopefully, I will. At least enough to fix the problem. Looks like I'll have to get a set of concave punches from Brownell's to solve this problem. Again, I appreciate your assistance Helix, and any other info you may be able to supply would be most appreciated. And please stay tuned, I may need your help again. Probably will, actually.

12-29-2009, 09:26 AM	#9
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? .009-.012 is the spec for the gap between the DA sear and the trigger cam when the hammer is down and the trigger is returned so look to that first. Try to simulate your problem and pay close attention to the DA sear and its relation to the trigger cam. (this is the top part of the trigger that makes contact with the DA sear). Im guessing by what your describing is when you pull the hammer back in SA mode and pull the trigger the hammer won't drop or if it does not very far. This is b/c the let out on the DA sear is two much or there is something buggering up the trigger and spring so the trigger is not pulling to its full rear position and the DA sear then will not clear and hits the trigger cam. I read your first post a couple of times and also my understanding is that if you try to shoot in DA mode the hammer will drop if you pull the trigger with intent. If you do it slowly the hammer won't drop, am I correct in saying this? You are 100% correct on not touching the hammer. The first rule in smithing a S&W revolver (besides making sure its not loaded) is never do anything to the hammer, work everything around the hammer. Shortening the DA sear may fix your SA problem but it will cause a potential timing problem in DA mode. The hammer may drop before the cylinder is in range and locked. It can also potentially create a heavy or gritty trigger. If you buy a new DA sear then it will have to be hand fit, all of them are, and I can PM some info on doing it. Its a very slow process. For now check the trigger function, make sure the trigger is going as far back as it can. Next slowly simulate the SA mode problem. When you cock the hammer and pull the trigger the DA sear should clear the trigger cam, I'm suspecting that its hitting it.

12-29-2009, 10:21 AM	#11
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? It could be a matter of stoning a slight bevel on the DA sear to clear the trigger. I'll send you some info too on it. The info I have is for the more modern Revolvers starting with the model 10 but the premise is the same. Obviously both you guys are very technically inclined, should be a no brainer for both of ya.

12-29-2009, 09:17 PM	#12
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Helix: I didn't know the .009-.012 was measured with the hammer down. That way its too close for me to tell by eye, looks like its close to being in range. With a slight amount of pressure on the trigger (in D/A) the hammer just begins to move and I have a gap much larger than .009-.012. If I pull the trigger slowly in D/A it will fire. In S/A the hammer drops, then catches and it goes into D/A. It does what Alpo's does. It appears that the D/A sear is not fully disengaging enough when the S/A sear disengages. It seems to be hanging up the hammer. The trigger seems to have full travel, it is not hitting the trigger gaurd. I thought I had it figured out and was going to work on it tonight, but I'm glad I checked here first. Now I'm not too sure what to do. If I put a bevel on the D/A sear I'm afraid that it might not allow the sear to cock the hammer back. I was thinking of stoning the D/A sear so that I'd have almost no gap between it and the hammer when the hammer is at rest.

12-29-2009, 09:44 PM	#13
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Could it be that the S/A sear is disengaging too early? I have to assume that the cause of this problem is a worn part, I don't think these guns would have done this when new. Now that I look at it with a bright light (I still haven't taken the mechanism out of the frame) I can see that the S/A sear appears worn down in the center, but this could be to provide clearance for the hammer spring. It does seem though that the hammer is still engaging the outer most parts of the sear (where it doesn't seem worn, only the center is), so maybe that's not it either. I dunno, but it just seems that something must have changed since this gun was new and all I can think of is wear.

12-31-2009, 10:41 PM	#15
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Helix: I eagerly await your reply. Thank you for your time and assistance in this matter. I have ordered some small punches from Brownell's so that I can take this thing apart. I'm real good at that. Getting it back together and having it work is another story.

12-31-2009, 11:46 PM	#16
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I'll get you that info. I've been really out of it and bed ridden. Got pneumonia and its whipping my butt. Haven't slept in about 3 days. I don't want to pass on any bad info to you in my stuper.

01-04-2010, 06:54 PM	#17
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? OK, looked though everything that I had regarding the old DA sear models. Not much on them but I want to get this bugger figured out for you. How far apart do you have it? Do you have a digital camera?

01-05-2010, 10:29 PM	#18
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I have not taken anything apart yet but the side plate and I removed the trigger spring. I am waiting on some small punches from Brownell's to take it all the way apart. I think one of my friends has a digital camera, I'll see if I can get some pix to show you where it hangs up and where I intend to file down.

01-05-2010, 10:42 PM	#19
RJay Advanced Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Arizona Posts: 3,487	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? IMHO doing gunsmithing by forum is like doing sex over the phone, it takes getting together before anything can really happen properly. JMO __________________ RonJames

01-07-2010, 08:31 PM	#20
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Helix; I have a photo but can't figure out how to post it. Just got my punches in. It looks like the first part to remove is the rear sear spring. It don't wanna come out all the way, only about 1/8." Started to bend my new punch. #@%&!

01-07-2010, 08:36 PM	#21
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? at the bottom of the screen go to manage attachments. It will open a new window. Within that window you'll see browse buttons. Select those and find your photos and select them then hit upload. When its done close the small window then hit submit. __________________ Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com

01-07-2010, 08:56 PM	#22
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I may have put it on twice, or not at all. On preview post it is there. The camera is not real good on close-up shots, but you can see the forward (D/A) sear. This is in S/A cocked. When the trigger is pulled there is a bit bigger gap but what is holding the hammer is the D/A sear, bottom about 3/16" below the hook of the sear. Just below this is a shadow but the part holding the hammer from falling. Like this it is in D/A mode, and if the trigger is pulled further the hammer will drop. It is on the bottom part of the sear which is holding the hammer that I intend to file. Providing that I can get the rear sear spring pin out. I have gotten the front trigger gaurd pin out but the gun is still now as shown. Attached Images

01-07-2010, 10:02 PM	#23
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? I have both tigger gaurd pins out, the trigger pin, and the rear sear pin. The side plate is off. The mechanism does not seem to just fall right out, as I was hoping. Is my next step to take the hammer out? If so, how? It doesn't seem to want to pull right out. At least not easily, I have not tried force yet. Should I drive out the hammer pivot stud? I'm not leaning that way, but then again, I've never had a revolver apart before. I know this sounds only slightly less scary than a monkey doing gall-bladder surgery, but I know just enough to be dangerous. 20 years ago I used to take aircraft engines apart. I'd send out for new parts and throw the rest in a box. Then I would shake the box, vigorously. 2 months later, when all the parts were in, I'd put it back together. And the damned things would work. Every time. Never had any extra parts, like I did on cars. All I ever consulted was a torque-limit table and parts catalog. But this is new to me and I've never had any training on fixing guns, or even tried. Any advice will be most appreciated. Any new cuss-words that might be of use are likewise appreciated, and probably will be over-used. Thanks.

01-07-2010, 10:36 PM	#24
Helix_FR TFF Moderator/Host Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Imperial, MO Posts: 3,624	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Don't touch the hammer boss or stud. Did you remove the main spring yet? Just an initial reaction but it could be the photos, how clean is the action? __________________ Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com Last edited by Helix_FR; 01-07-2010 at 10:39 PM..

01-07-2010, 10:44 PM	#25
belercous Former Guest Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 195	Re: S&W D/A top break trigger in S/A? Have not touched hammer stud. Hammer boss? Unsure of what you mean. Main spring (hammer spring) is out. Action is fairly clean. First thing I did was spray it with Remoil to see if that would help. Obviously, it didn't.